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Thread: "knock" sound coming from rear axle when gas is applied

  1. #16
    Insane Network Engineer rlith's Avatar
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    you can replace them yourself....25 bux a piece... As to cnotching, (or atleast cutting the bump stops) you can do it yourself..... Just rent a saw or a torch for a day...
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  2. #17
    Registered User bdazblazr's Avatar
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    just a thought , maybe it could be your shock mounts is there any play there or is your axle hitting your frame cause i know mine does and it knocks really loud

  3. #18
    . SlimJimmy's Avatar
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    K i was just reading my truckin magazine.....For a C-notch, can I just take a piece of 4inch diameter pipe, cut a piece of then cut that down the middle. Then use that little half moon and traced the shape onto my fram rail, and then cut it out and weld that in? Would that be considered a c-notch? I always thought c notch's were those big steps that look like an "A". So if I do this kind of c-notch, can I just got my bump stop and bump stop bracket right out then?

  4. #19
    Registered User dum bass's Avatar
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    you need U joints. I'll bet your sound is more of a metallic "clank!" noise than anthing else. The bumpstops have a 9/16 bolt I think. Either take a chance by not having them or buy some shorter ones that look like a half a rubber ball from a suspension dealer or online retailer. If your driveshaft hit the ground, I'll bet you lost a cap off one of the U joint's horns or something, if it came off maybe missing needle bearings. Just replace them...

  5. #20
    Registered User dum bass's Avatar
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    Originally posted by SlimJimmy
    K i was just reading my truckin magazine.....For a C-notch, can I just take a piece of 4inch diameter pipe, cut a piece of then cut that down the middle. Then use that little half moon and traced the shape onto my fram rail, and then cut it out and weld that in? Would that be considered a c-notch? I always thought c notch's were those big steps that look like an "A". So if I do this kind of c-notch, can I just got my bump stop and bump stop bracket right out then?
    The big thing like a step is a "super C" notch. A regular C is just a notch into the side and bottom of the frame. Super C will prolly require cutting your floor up...

  6. #21
    . SlimJimmy's Avatar
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    Yea the part where the driveshaft slides into the second piece (below the front seats) fell out and hit the ground...so should I just bring it in to like a mechanics and get them to fix it? And what is it gonna cost me?

  7. #22
    Registered User dum bass's Avatar
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    nothing really needs fixing, just call around and ask how much some places charge to replace "U-Joints" if you take the driveshaft out and bring it in to them. If you're feeling brave, you can press them out of the yoke and the shaft yourself, but it isn't fun w/o the right tools. Best bet, call a shop.

    I'm assuming that you're referring to the yoke (thing with splines on it that slides into tailshaft of the transmission) as the part you're saying hit the ground, unless you smacked the hell out of it and broke it there's nothing wrong. Since the yoke fit back in, I wouldn't worry at all.

    It appears that you know how to remove it, just don't pay over $25 apiece for "non-GM" U-joints that you have to grease, GM ones are about $60 each and are sealed. They'll both last about the same amount of time (100-150K miles) depending on how you drive. The labor is probably going to be high whether they put your car on a lift or you carry parts in to them, so be ready to spend what you would on getting a C-notch done, but it's routine maintenance... Good luck, and hope this helps.

  8. #23
    Registered User dum bass's Avatar
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    by the way, those are US $

  9. #24
    . SlimJimmy's Avatar
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    K so Im thinking that it probobly is the U-Joints....How much roughly is a decent price to do them. Once place told me 120$ CAD....isnt that a little high? Also the sound is hard to describe but ill try...its like when u have a bent piece of say sheet metal, and u push the bend in and it makes that sound as it bends the other way...i dont know if u know what i mean...hmm

  10. #25
    Insane Network Engineer rlith's Avatar
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    120 cad. is about 20 bux american, i'd do it :P
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    -- I won't bag it and/or drop it, because face it, I'm too old to have a ghetto-mobile
    "I live with 2 retards and a deaf person.....It's not so bad..." --Grandma

  11. #26
    Registered User bobh's Avatar
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    Slim,

    It sounds like the U joints to me. If you have a lot of miles on your truck you should replace them. If a U joint fails you can break a yoke, drop the drive shaft... It can get expensive. A lot of times a U joint will squeal for awhile before it fails. This is usually the result of the lubricant drying up. In the old days U joints had a grease fitting so you could keep them lubricated. Nowdays they are "permanently" lubricated. WHich just means you can't lube them.

    You can do them yourself if you have a big enough bench vise and some deep dish sockets. They're not hard to do, just a pain. Read a repair manual to find out how to change them. Be sure to mark the drive shaft and the yoke on the tranny end and the yoke on the rear end. It is very important to put the drive shaft back in exactly the way it came out. If you get this wrong your U joints will be out of phase and cause the drive shaft to vibrate.

    If you know a shop that doesn't mind teaching you a few things. Ask them if you can just bring in the drive shaft and have them do the U joints. If they agree ask them about marking the shaft and yokes. They can tell you how and why. Tell them you're trying to do all of the work on your truck yourself, with your own money. And you need a little help understanding how to do some things. Most people have a hard time saying no when someone asks for a little help or advice.

    I learned alot from mechanics by asking questions. bye the way the big shops probably won't help much. The managers don't let the mechanics. You may also ask a mechanic if he does work on the side. U joints are easy enough for a mechanic to replace that they might do it at their home with you helping.

    Good Luck
    BOBH

    93 2wd 4d Jimmy, 92 Sonoma Xcab, 4.3 5 speed

  12. #27
    Insane Network Engineer rlith's Avatar
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    Heh, I once candy caned a drive shaft into the road when I had a73 mercury montego... Broght the rear end of the car up 3 feet before it dug it's hole... I was doing about 40 at the time...
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    95 S10 Blazer 4x4, Vortech CPI, EGR mod, 99 Centerconsole w/ shifter, , 2001 Extreme zq8 steering box, Pioneer head unit, Leather interior

    -- I won't bag it and/or drop it, because face it, I'm too old to have a ghetto-mobile
    "I live with 2 retards and a deaf person.....It's not so bad..." --Grandma

  13. #28
    Your mom's box! slammins15's Avatar
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    Originally posted by rlith
    120 cad. is about 20 bux american, i'd do it :P
    Actually your dollar has gotten weaker and $120 cdn is about $86 usd :bigthumb:
    I'm a black ninja motherfucker!



  14. #29
    Boost in an SUV? Typhoon's Avatar
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    If you have alot of miles on your truck, and have never done the U-joints I would start there too.
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  15. #30
    . SlimJimmy's Avatar
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    DGC:IFE@D:CIEY!!!!! Its not my u joints I got my mechanic to check them....I must have something loose. Maybe I didnt tighten the leaf pack enough when i pull one or sumthing...bah

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