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Thread: Front end rattle I cant find!

  1. #1
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    Front end rattle I cant find!

    89 S10 4WD. Factory suspension. I have this terrible rattle in my left frt suspension, when going over small bumps. It sounds awful & embarrassing to people on the street. Itís not a heavy knock, but a light multi-chatter rattle, similar to a loose tailpipe, but up front. I had a buddy drive it back & forth over a sewerplate to try & isolate the source. It sounds like the wheel is gonna fall off. But I cannot duplicate the sound when up on jackstands or ramps. Bounced the susp, took the wheel off & shook everthing, tightend every nut & bolt- Nothing! The shocks are 3yrs old & not worn. I just had the Axles & Ball joints replaced Ė no difference.
    Caliper is on tight, shock is tight? Definatley NOT the fender or body. I asked a Chevy Mech, but he has no idea. Itís only the left side. Any ideas?..

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    i had that problem with my 89 s10 4x4. It turned out to be the wheel bearings it was on the driver side. i got it fixed then sure enough the passenger side started doing the same damn thing. so check it out it might be it. hope this helped
    1986 two wheel drive s-10 blazer

    ....Who needs demons when there.....
    ...are chicks...

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    Sombody else had mentioned that. But they said the hub bearings are not accessable to repack/repair and the only thing is to replace the whole hub to the tune of $150 each side.
    Is that what you did?

  4. #4
    erect member groundscr8pr's Avatar
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    its not the baerings. it is most likly the tosion bar mounts they are very common parts that go bad on 4x4 s-10s. they are cheap to fix but you will need a lift to replace them easily.
    wicked to the bone i am
    you can meet me in the dark if you think im playin 4 DOOR LOVE

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    No it's definatley in the wheel & not the torsion bar mounts.
    Im familiar with the noise they make (cause I had to replace my 3 years ago) and I know they're still good.


    How hard are the hubs to R & R?
    Is there any way to test how worn the hub bearings are?
    WOuld it have alot of play in it if I grab & shake it?
    Other than swap it to the other side (which is alot of work, if even possible?) to see if the sound follows the hub, Im not sure how to confirm, thats the noise


    I already replaced the ball joints & cv axles to the tune of about $675 (and got away cheap, cause I bought the pts myself & had them installed along with other work). But almost Seven bills later I still have the noise. Thats why I leary of $150 gamble.

  6. #6
    Registered User secondwon's Avatar
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    I have a squeek in my right front. I think it is the coil spring rubbing somewhere on the top or bottum, when i hit the smallest bumb its like errrrreeeerrrrreee. I can do it by just pressing down when in park. I get dissapointed because i cant fix it. Any suggestions.

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    I have standard 4WD (no mods) supension that uses torsionbars, not coil springs. And I cant dupicate the sound standing still, only when rolling.

    Come to think of it, worn bearings actually would be audible only when rolling. That idea is starting to make more sense now..

  8. #8
    ONCE BAGGED 4X4 MEMBER Trigga187's Avatar
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    its your bearings, I have the same problem on both wheels, and yes its friggin embarrasing. I still havent replaced them because they are soo damn expensive and hard to change. Anybody know a place to get them online?? I only hear it whiile driving but not while on jack stands.
    Good Bye Blazer




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    I checked AutoZone's website.
    (BTW-a great inter active self-serv for cross reference info)

    Anyways they carry Frt hub assemblys from two manufacturers.
    Coast-to-coast - #513013 1yr wrty $109 each
    Timken - #VL513013 3mo wrty $89 each

    If thats what the noise is?
    It's alot better than $150. I just never heard of those brands before. Anyone ever use these?? The $89 one with 3mo wrty has got to be a reman (although no core is charged?)
    Maybe they are repairable after all?

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    yea i just took mine somewhere and they fixed it but im not sure if they replaced the whole thing or not. at the same time they did all the balljoints also. it all came to about $650. so we all know what it is, nasty rattling sound comming from the front kind of like tiny rocks in a coffee can. well thats what it kinda sounded like to me. but yea its your bearings.
    1986 two wheel drive s-10 blazer

    ....Who needs demons when there.....
    ...are chicks...

  11. #11
    ONCE BAGGED 4X4 MEMBER Trigga187's Avatar
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    damn $650??? u could have done it urself for way less, under $300.
    Good Bye Blazer




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    He might have saved on the labor & parts markup.
    I did some research before I attempted My baljoints myself.
    Heres the catch. The replacements bolt-in but the originals are riveted-in. You need an air chisel @ 90psi to break-em loose.
    Everyone says it cant be done by hand properly. And not every
    home compressor puts out 90psi. So alot of guys got maybe
    one or two rivets out, but then started mangling the rest.
    Now you cant put 'em back in & have to get flatbed towed to a shop anyway. It was better to bite the bullet on cost & have a shop do it right, if you've never done it before.

    Now the hubs, according to my Chilton giude dont look too difficult to R&R. Take off the tire, caliper & disc. The 3 bolts & it should slide right off the splines of the cv-axle & pop out of the spindle.

    If Im wrong & it has to be pressed out or something, sombody
    tell me (sombody who's done it before) thanks....

  13. #13
    ONCE BAGGED 4X4 MEMBER Trigga187's Avatar
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    nope wrong.....these things are easy to fix. The rivets are removed using a 1/4" bit to make a guide hole and then a 1/2" bit to remove the head. Then you just use a punch and a hammer to take them out. Easy. The hub assembly doesn not have to be pressed out.
    Good Bye Blazer




  14. #14
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    Im glad the hub comes out easy.

    As for the Balljoints, I'd never done them before.
    before I heard of this webite I did a search for "s10 balljoint replace" & most of the hits were guys describing horror stories of
    getting the job half done, and having to be towed to a shop (when they could've just driven there in the first place)
    In most hits, they couldnt get the rivets out, or mangled the control arms doing it. I even spoke to a couple of GM mechs who said they'd never attempt this job in a driveway with hand tools.

    This was what I was told. so can ya see my point at the time.
    Didnt want to take a chance & find out the hard way.

  15. #15
    ONCE BAGGED 4X4 MEMBER Trigga187's Avatar
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    you just need the right tools. You can rent them from autozone for free.
    Good Bye Blazer




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