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Thread: Bottom end mods while shes out

  1. #1
    TL8 BEDAN77's Avatar
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    Bottom end mods while shes out

    My truck is being hauled to the shop today, the problem is probably a busted rod bearing or somthing...

    Anywho...well the motor is out, what mods could be done that are somewhat inexpensive? im thinking of getting the 4bolt main conversion kit so far, thats a smart idea..anything else i can shove up under there?
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  2. #2
    BLF #1 BITCHES! slow 89's Avatar
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    well a busted rod and spun bearing are two completely dif problems.. if you spun a bearing.. your gonna have to get your crank cut *not too big of a deal* but if you broke a rod you shuold have the block magnafluxed to check for cracks if the block is fine and you want to upgrade it get a set of TRW flat top forged pistons i believe there like $35 each... rods.. you can get a set of aftermarket ones from jegs or summit for like 2-300 for an OK set and like you said you can get the splayed main caps but they require machining.. which means youll have to take the whole motor apart that way you can clean it out good to make sure all the metal shaving are gone before its put back together.. and shit while its apart you might as well throw a cam in it.. hahaha see it all adds up..

    goodluck

    matt
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  3. #3
    TL8 BEDAN77's Avatar
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    thanks for the info. i was at the shop today and the mechanic told me this...that obviously the motor has to come out ($1500) and that if it needs a rebuild he sends it to a machine shop and depending on how i want it to come back..it could run me $3500 in total. heres what i dont get...truck still runs o.k. it just has this fucked up noise in it...why would i need a full rebuild if the pistons are fine and all...

    how much should you expect to pay for a rebuild? normal/performance/ mild...etc ?
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  4. #4
    'Fraid I just Dont Member Shrugger's Avatar
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    I've got the Summit book from a couple months ago. They got rebuild kits for your motor from $280-$340 depending on the pistons you want. Just about every thig you need except for rods and cam ECT..
    Originally posted by bigjsp
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  5. #5
    sittin sideways boominrick's Avatar
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    do it yourself! they will rip you off! and while its out stroke it
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  6. #6
    TL8 BEDAN77's Avatar
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    i dont have the money to do excess work to the motor really, such as stroking it or even putting in a cam. but i figure if it needs a rebuild i would use a slightly better rebuild kit than stock..

    but the thing is, does it sound like it really needs a rebuild? lol..thats it..im on my way to the shop now. i'll keep y'all updated.
    MY BLAZER IS FOR SALE - CHECK THE CLASSIFIEDS

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  7. #7
    TL8 BEDAN77's Avatar
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    PLANS HAVE TAKEN A TURN. I have the oppertunity to buy an LT1 W low Km's for 700-800 Dollars Canadian. should i just buy that instead and drop that in? i'll take off my Commander 950 and put it on the LT1 but i have to use my exhaust manifolds from my tpi because the headers that the LT1 comes with wont work with the conversion? should i go this route instead of rebuilding the bottom end of the tpi motor?? i can sell the tpi system to someone i know who has a 305 and scrap the bottom end. i also think it comes with a tranny?.

    whadda ya think?
    MY BLAZER IS FOR SALE - CHECK THE CLASSIFIEDS

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  8. #8
    'Fraid I just Dont Member Shrugger's Avatar
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    NO! you should definatly not do that!

    What you should do is PM [ME!] the guys name and number!

    LoL

    Really, at that price you should jump all over that. Even if you have to pay extra for the tranny.
    I think the cheapest I've fond for a LT1 is $1700us not including tranny!
    I'd have to go clear down to North Carolina for it too!
    Originally posted by bigjsp
    "an unused weapon is a useless weapon"
    ALL infidels shall be shrugged!
    :eek: <--- 'O' face

  9. #9
    'Fraid I just Dont Member Shrugger's Avatar
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    oops, is the LT1 complete?
    Are you talkin stock headers or AM headers?
    Stock exhaust will work but you'll probly have to notch the frame for clearance.
    Originally posted by bigjsp
    "an unused weapon is a useless weapon"
    ALL infidels shall be shrugged!
    :eek: <--- 'O' face

  10. #10
    Registered User oldcarguy85's Avatar
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    u can;t jsut bolt that commander on there. ud have to get an lt1 carbed intake, becasue they don;t have coolant flowing through the intake. LT1 is NOT like othe rsmall blocks. it has reverse coolant flow, differnte kinda drive on teh water pump, no distributor... well its down on teh crank or something and it always fucks up.
    1988 s-15 jimmy
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  11. #11
    BLF #1 BITCHES! slow 89's Avatar
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    ok.. if the sound is like a screaching either all the time.. or like every couple seconds or so.. you spun a bearing.. NOT a big deal
    you can remove the crank without removing the motor.. will be a bitch but you can undo the motor mounts and jack the motor up.. actually.. now that i think of it.. maybe you cant pull that off in an s-series.. but even if you do have to pull the motor its not a big deal but do it yourself and save a LOT of money 1500 is rediculous.. you can either get the crank cut and get new bearings or get a crank kit from a local store w/ bearings for like $150 or less.. *well around here you can at napa* just swap it over no machine work reqd on the block .. should be able to do it in a day and your back on the road.. you most likely do NOT need new pistons or anything else they just wanna rip you off.. i cant say for sure because i cant hear the noise first hand to tell you what it is.. but like i said its most likely a spun bearing


    as for the lt1.. if its complete w/ harness.. get it thats a HELL of a deal BUT like someone said your intake will NOT bolt up so youll have to use the lt1 equip also if you get that and you use a stock harness youll need a 4l60 tranny if its auto and there not too easy to come by ..

    either way good luck and post back updates
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  12. #12
    I'm no post whore Ericoo1's Avatar
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    Originally posted by oldcarguy85
    u can;t jsut bolt that commander on there. ud have to get an lt1 carbed intake, becasue they don;t have coolant flowing through the intake. LT1 is NOT like othe rsmall blocks. it has reverse coolant flow, differnte kinda drive on teh water pump, no distributor... well its down on teh crank or something and it always fucks up.
    the holley commander is a progamable computer. Instead of swapping proms, all you need to do is hook it up to a a PC.

  13. #13
    TL8 BEDAN77's Avatar
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    yea i cant understand why the commander wouldnt work. it just controls fuel and spark systems.

    i dont have anywhere to do the work, and i dont have anything do work with. so i cant do it myself. the way i see it is i would rather go with the Lt1 if its not that hard of a job.
    MY BLAZER IS FOR SALE - CHECK THE CLASSIFIEDS

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  14. #14
    Senior Member bigjsp's Avatar
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    LT1s are great....... use the factory controlerd injection stuff if you can get it complete, particularly with the 460E tranny

    I've currently got my dads S15 with an LT1 sitting here in Ohio if you need pictures for incentive. Haven't had it to the strip but it feels like solid 13s and gets 20+ MPG.

    My 34 roadster also has an LT1/ 460E and it get 20+ MPG and runs real stout for a street car.

  15. #15
    Registered User oldcarguy85's Avatar
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    o im sorry... being dumb tonight my bad... but still u need an lt1 intake
    1988 s-15 jimmy
    500hp 383
    700r4
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