The Torsion Bar Trick
(with pics)

revised the original post with info i thought was necessary and added pics.
can some one make this a sticky or something?


-Before you start (more than a day in advance) you should soak both ends of the torsion bars with some type of penetrating oil. Driving around on bumpy roads will help work the lube into the mating spaces.


1.Jack up the front end and place jack stands securely under the frame so it is well supported. The front tires must be up off the ground enough for a jack to get under the tires or control arms for a later adjustment.

2.Take off the front bump stops. They must be removed or the truck will sit on them. (9/16 nut).


3.At the crossmember (where the rear of the torsion bars stop) unscrew the 2 adjuster bolts all the way, they should be 18mm bolt.


4. Use a two jaw puller (can be rented at Auto Zone for about $40.00 deposit) to lift the torsion bar adjuster arm (aka key) up off its support block, so you can remove the blocks out of the rear hole in the crossmember. In order to do this at least in my case I had to cut a notch into the cross member, so the arm of the jaw puller could grab onto the torsion bar cross member. Then slowly let the puller back down to release the pressure once the block is out. Now do the other side.






5.Now take a hammer and tap on the torsion bars to break the rust free (both ends) you may want to do this a bunch of times, the more the better. I took an pneumatic air chisel and took a spare bit and cut the point off and then used it in the air chisel to hit the torsion bar near the keys and the control arms, but a hammer will do the same.

6. Use a hammer and drift tap to pound the torsion bar towards the front of the vehicle. If you cannot get them to tap out you can remove the 4 bolts holding the whole crossmember in place.(I found this to be the easiest) For some of you the exhaust might be in the way, You can use a jack to hold the pipe up out of the way.

7. You should be able to slide the bars forward a few inches to 'disengage' them from the control arm hole.(or if you slid the cross member towards the rear the keys just fall out) Use a jack to lift the wheel/control arms up until the tire just about tucks into the wheel well.

8. Place the key back onto the torsion bar exactly the way it came off (you have slid the cross back if the crossmember was slid moved) or just pull the torsion bar back into the key hole. Make sure you reinstall the adjuster arm keys UPSIDE-DOWN. Make sure the shape of the key holes match up with the torsion bar shape before you tap them back in place.



9. If done correctly the support blocks should go back in with the keys sitting just above them.

10. Then put the torsion bar bolts back into the blocks and tighten them all the way up. MAKE SURE YOU ANGLE THE BLOCKS AND TORSION BAR BOLTS DIRECTLY TOWARDS THE KEYS, IF NOT THE BLOCKS WILL SLIP.

-Once both sides are done exactly like this, you can let the front end down and see how you did. You should be able to bounce the front end down a few inches before it bottoms out.

-You can now screw/unscrew the adjuster bolts for final leveling out or lowing even more. You should be able to adjust from a 5.5" to a 6.5" drop.

- If any parts look worn or damaged now is the time to replace them. Especially torsion cross member mounts.

-The ride quality suffers, it is bouncy due to lack of suspension travel left. Also the stock shocks are too compressed to function at all. Drop shocks will help and pancake bump stops will soften bottoming out.

-I have done my best to explain this whole procedure, but if you still have trouble, you can post questions here in the suspension or 4x4 forum. GOOD LUCK!