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Thread: Torsion bar trick how to with pics

  1. #151
    Registered User 87s10guy's Avatar
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    if not i am cuttin my xmember but if i dont have to remove/drop anything i would so rather do that

  2. #152
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    oh no way man, dont remove that thing....


    Do you have that big L shapped shied running acrost the front of it? if so, you will have to get out an angle grinder and cut 2 big squares out of it to gain acess to the torsin bar crossmember bettter.


    As for the holes, either make 4 BEAN shapped holes at the bottom of the crossmember and put the adjuster blocks back in and use the adjuster block bolts for fine tuning, or if you are just going to put a bolt through the crossmember for the key to rest against, go PRETTY close to the bottom, leaving a little room so you can grind out with a dremel for fine adjustement...

    My new holes are damn near at the bottom lip and its a 5 inch drop (based on what it was AFTER the adjuster bolts already removed)


    The front bumpstops AND THE BRACKETS need to be hacked completely off or your controll arm will tap against them on bumps.


    89' S10 blazer 4wd: 355, 650 dp, rpm intake, comp 282 roller cam, modified vortecs, T56 Six speed, 8.8 ls rear, headers, x-pipe, spintech pro street mufflers, and......AC

    Blazer burnout video - http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sP7iLypoDI4

  3. #153
    Registered User 87s10guy's Avatar
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    i have a look a like x member in front of the torsion key like i cant see both sides of the block on top if thats wat u mean

  4. #154
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    yup, 88+ got them... I call it an asshole shield...


    I eventually torched mine completely out.... USELESS WEIGHT.


    89' S10 blazer 4wd: 355, 650 dp, rpm intake, comp 282 roller cam, modified vortecs, T56 Six speed, 8.8 ls rear, headers, x-pipe, spintech pro street mufflers, and......AC

    Blazer burnout video - http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sP7iLypoDI4

  5. #155
    Registered User 87s10guy's Avatar
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    ill just cut the whole thing off. so after that whats the next step i want 4-5 pref adjust if not its ok i just dont want shitty alinement

  6. #156
    Registered User 87s10guy's Avatar
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    make 4 BEAN shapped holes at the bottom of the crossmember and put the adjuster blocks back in and use the adjuster block bolts for fine tuning do u have a digram?

  7. #157
    Registered User 87s10guy's Avatar
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    to put a bolt through the crossmember for the key to rest against? would i just drill a big whole in one side and out the other and then put a grade 8 or what ever bolt thru that? or do i let it sit on that till i cut the adj block whole then readjust

  8. #158
    Registered User 87s10guy's Avatar
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    do u do texting lol. cuz i could send u my number so its faster and easier if not its cool. then if i need a better descript i could send u pictures

  9. #159
    Registered User 87s10guy's Avatar
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    will my all wheel drive work with it that low or should i remove my axles. i want to remove em but if i can have it almost 5 or 5 inch in front ill use it for winter my drive shaft is out currently

  10. #160
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    holy crap man LOL slow down... I usually dont even get on here more than a couple times a week.. When im off work ill try to answer these.


    89' S10 blazer 4wd: 355, 650 dp, rpm intake, comp 282 roller cam, modified vortecs, T56 Six speed, 8.8 ls rear, headers, x-pipe, spintech pro street mufflers, and......AC

    Blazer burnout video - http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sP7iLypoDI4

  11. #161
    Registered User 87s10guy's Avatar
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    thanks bro your shit sounds sick and looks like it lays em down pretty good lol

  12. #162
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    haha thx, it will be even better in about 3 weeks :evil:


    89' S10 blazer 4wd: 355, 650 dp, rpm intake, comp 282 roller cam, modified vortecs, T56 Six speed, 8.8 ls rear, headers, x-pipe, spintech pro street mufflers, and......AC

    Blazer burnout video - http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sP7iLypoDI4

  13. #163
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    yeah running the cv's at 5 inch drop may be a little rough, you would have to take a pic and show me the angle on them... main thing is if they are packed full of uncontaminated grease, no splits in the boots...


    To be safe, just run without, but if you WANT to run them, at least take a pic and let me look at it... People are a little over sensitive about them wearing out on a drop, but most people dont understand the fact that these parts are 20+ years old..... :/ Cv jpints can actually run at a pretty decent angle.



    As for the diagram, ill try to grab a pic, but for 5 inches, seriously, just go about as low as you can, if you are goign to use the stock adjuster blocks, go AS low as you can. if you use a grade 8 bolt, leave a half inch between the bolt and lip on the bottom so you have a little material there to work with if you need to fine tune it.


    you will also need new shocks. The stocks will bottom out if you lower it 5 inches.


    89' S10 blazer 4wd: 355, 650 dp, rpm intake, comp 282 roller cam, modified vortecs, T56 Six speed, 8.8 ls rear, headers, x-pipe, spintech pro street mufflers, and......AC

    Blazer burnout video - http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sP7iLypoDI4

  14. #164
    Registered User 87s10guy's Avatar
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    so i can put the block on the bottom with out welding. and as for the bolt going thru u just drill a whole one side and out hte other then put a big bolt in there and take outh the block? text me up if u would lol it will make life easier. ill message u it now

  15. #165
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    Ok its HOLE, not WHOLE.... ;)

    Yes you are correct on drilling a hole.... say, a 5/8 inch hole.


    the block, no it wont go on the BOTTOM of the crossmember, it would go CLOSE to the bottom, still above the LIP that runs along to bottom of the crossmember...


    and yes, obviously you take the stock adjuster bolt AND block clear out, you have to let the torsion bar arm rest in a lower position.


    89' S10 blazer 4wd: 355, 650 dp, rpm intake, comp 282 roller cam, modified vortecs, T56 Six speed, 8.8 ls rear, headers, x-pipe, spintech pro street mufflers, and......AC

    Blazer burnout video - http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sP7iLypoDI4

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