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Thread: high temp problem

  1. #16
    fabricator on a dime blaznlowhubby's Avatar
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    are you getting circulation? grab the top hose and squeeze it and then let go the water should surge through the hose. if so you are pumping water. if not you have a blockage somewhere. I would flush the coolaint system and use the cleaner they have for the system also. make sure you have a good flow through the block. did you take the metal tube off from the back of the intake and relace it ? this metal tube has cooliant going though it. one of the heater hoses connect to it.
    dad always said" Keep it simple stupid" K.I.S.S.

  2. #17
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    New 15LB cap, new Tstat, New Pump, flush and clean radiator, new upper and lower hose fan clutch still good, what else can it be? Idle for about 30 minutes temp is like 195 then when i step on brake and drive it temps like 210 then 5minutes later 240...
    theres no water in the engine....i even used a bottle of water wetter thing....

  3. #18
    fabricator on a dime blaznlowhubby's Avatar
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    some times people will replace the coolant tube.(because its ugly) It comes from the back of the intake then curve around over the valve cover then a heater hose connects to it. if it got replaced with heater hose the hose will collapse and not let any coolant through. you must have the tube. also after it heats up and you turn it off does the system suck coolant from the overflow? if not you have a hole somewhere.
    dad always said" Keep it simple stupid" K.I.S.S.

  4. #19
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    Still heating up....it sucks a lil coolant back not everything...

  5. #20
    Senior Member HrvckRacer29's Avatar
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    i have a problem with the gauge saying its overheating, it will shoot up to 260 and then back down and flucuate the whole time i am driving, it doesnt get low on coolant or anything, all the fluids have been changed and are up to date, we read in our dummy manual that it could be a bad engine ground or the gauge itself

  6. #21
    fabricator on a dime blaznlowhubby's Avatar
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    it sounds just like mine I had to replace the radator with a three row radator. they told me anything less than 3 rows is not enough. get a good radator not a cheap one. it's worth it. I would also check the gauge. like he said it could be the gauge. but you are overflowing the tank when you get hot.(right?)
    dad always said" Keep it simple stupid" K.I.S.S.

  7. #22
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    yes overflowing when its hot to the tank

  8. #23
    Red Beast willcarsrule's Avatar
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    If you havent buy a new raditor. Or i guess your water pump could be clogged? But if it was me I would buy a new raditor.
    I work my ass off to get my toys, I don't get them given to me!
    willcarsrule
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  9. #24
    Registered User Blazin Low N KC's Avatar
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    By any chance could the impeller on the water pump have come apart causing the waterpump to flow very little?
    Originally posted by Blaz90
    Very nice! I whipped that shit out at the office and they was like woooo!
    Props,
    J
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  10. #25
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    ok i think i found out the problem but not sure what is it.....the upper and lower hose suppose to be rock hard when its hot right? but when my blazer is hot i can squeeze it down...whats can this be?

  11. #26
    Registered User dum bass's Avatar
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    is it overflowing into the tank or are there air bubbles coming out into the tank? If bubbles, you've either got a cracked head or blown head gasket.

  12. #27
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    doing another flush and if it dotn work then im junking the blazer....Sigh....ima take it to the shop if it dont work

  13. #28
    fabricator on a dime blaznlowhubby's Avatar
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    sorry it took me so long to get back to you. my truck is doing the same thing. I dont get it . with the new 3 core radator while driving on the freeway the temp goes to 220 to 240 then drops down to 160 then. I get off the freeway and it goes up. when I stop then when I take off it goes down to 180 then in traffic its fine till I have to speed up then it goes up to 240 then down fast to160-180 then sets right below 210. It does not overflow every time. and I cant tell if I have bubbles in the overflow. what is a easy way to check for cracked head or head gasket? this sucks. help.:confused:
    dad always said" Keep it simple stupid" K.I.S.S.

  14. #29
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    i used some degreaser and flushed my radiator then i flush and flush for like 5times til all the S*** is gone then i run it with water for about 30 minutes then i just use a can of BLOCK WELD and some coolant and that did the trick for now....

  15. #30
    Registered User dum bass's Avatar
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    Originally posted by blaznlowhubby
    sorry it took me so long to get back to you. my truck is doing the same thing. I dont get it . with the new 3 core radator while driving on the freeway the temp goes to 220 to 240 then drops down to 160 then. I get off the freeway and it goes up. when I stop then when I take off it goes down to 180 then in traffic its fine till I have to speed up then it goes up to 240 then down fast to160-180 then sets right below 210. It does not overflow every time. and I cant tell if I have bubbles in the overflow. what is a easy way to check for cracked head or head gasket? this sucks. help.:confused:
    One sure thing is that if you've got a blown head gasket or cracked head, you're going to loose some water. How much water you're loosing and whether it's noticeable is another thing all together.

    If you can't see bubbles, take the cap off the radiator, start up, look for compression bubbles there. If no bubbles (you'll know what i'm talking about if you're getting compression leaking over) in overflow or radiator while running then check to see if you've got antifreeze/water mix coming out of tailpipe... condensation is normal, but if you give it gas and a steady stream comes out, you're in trouble. If no water coming out of tailpipe, no bubbles, nothing leaking out of gasket(s) onto the ground, and oil isn't milky in engine then you're probably safe.

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