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Thread: (disc brakes) Im stumped like a sob

  1. #1
    holeshot
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    (disc brakes) Im stumped like a sob

    what the hell is goin on? my front passenger side disc brake on my s10 keeps sticking to the point of friction where the rotor gets hot enough to grind those nice little divots in a 360 degree circle :mad: (and it gets hot i mean HOT) i replaced the calipers rotors and pads all at the same time and its still doing the same thing what do you guys think proportioning valve or something? its so bad that... ok example... driving down I-95 65 mph car presses his brakes ahead of me i press mine slow down to 45 when i try to go back to 65 i have the wait like 2 minutes for the brakes to let go so that the little 2.8 will actually push the truck that fast again. Also when in 2 wheel drive the truck brakes randomly as hell like all over the road from the front one sticking but in 4x4 this problem is solved 100 percent.

    Info-
    Non ABS Stock Disc front Drum Rear 110,000 miles
    87 s-10 Blazer 4x4 2.8 auto 700R4

  2. #2
    Registered User stretch59's Avatar
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    Since the front brakes uses a single brake line from the prop valve where it runs to a tee on the crossmember and then to both calipers, it's not likely the prop valve. #1 problem with sticking calipers is lack of lube on the mounting bolts. Or maybe worn out bolts.

    Second I would look for a pinched brake line on the passenger side. Could be the hard line or the flex. The line may be partially plugged.

    Inline tube makes nice stainless replacement lines for the Blazer.

    http://www.inlinetube.com/

  3. #3
    holeshot
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    thanks those sound like good suggestions ill go try them now tell you how they turn out

  4. #4
    Rollin' Holy Member jstblz's Avatar
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    I had the same prob, I got dirt inside a ripped cv boot, and somehow inside the piston too, I burned 1 brake down while I had half of the tread left on the other 1.
    Otter fan club CEO

    Originally posted by SpikesBlazin
    dont worry i like them black too. :omg:
    "A little knowledge of science makes man an atheist, but an in-depth study of science makes him a believer in GOD."
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  5. #5
    holeshot
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    stretch59
    -----------------------------------------------------
    when i took it apart today it was dry no lube maybe i forgot or it burned off idk i doubt i forgot though leaning towards burned off these things get so hot that when i touched it, it literally melted the tip of my fingernail like plastic on a hot stove, i bought new bolts and put enough brake lube on the caliper/bolts/pads to choke an elephant and it seems to be better/fixed i dont know ill update you on the long run any more suggestions would still be appreciated btw the lines are all in perfect shape and when i bled them they were flowing great. The caliper boot was very dry today think i should replace the caliper even though its only like 3000 miles old? its only like 12 bucks but neccesary?
    -------------------------------------------------------


    jstblz
    ------------------------------------------------------
    as for dirt in the caliper there shouldnt be i just put a brand new one on to fix the identical problem but even after the new caliper was on it continued.

  6. #6
    Registered User stretch59's Avatar
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    Originally posted by holeshot

    -----------------------------------------------------
    put enough brake lube on the ... pads to choke an elephant -------------------------------------------------------


    Don't want to lube the pads. Kind of defeats the purpose of having brakes. :D

    What you are supposed to put on the metal side of the pads is anti-squeal stuff. It's kind of a glue that make the pad stick to the caliper better and not vibrate as much.

    Another thing I saw somewhere is to adjust the rear brakes after installing new fronts. Seems that incorrectly adjusted rears can cause incorrect pressure to be applied to the fronts or something like that.

    http://www.blazinlow.com/forum/showthread.php?s=&threadid=43359&highlight=brakes

  7. #7
    Smash it 4.3 zach's Avatar
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    Lube the caliper guides, and if that doesnt work just buy a new caliper... They are cheap and when you take your old one back as a core you get even more $$ back :bigthumb:
    06 ccsb 2/5 drop, SS 20's, 370, L92 Heads, LT's/ORY, 237/242 .603/609 112, 2pc. driveshaft, 4l80e, 3500 stall, 12.8 @ 106

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  8. #8
    holeshot
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    Originally posted by stretch59
    Don't want to lube the pads. Kind of defeats the purpose of having brakes. :D

    What you are supposed to put on the metal side of the pads is anti-squeal stuff. It's kind of a glue that make the pad stick to the caliper better and not vibrate as much.

    Another thing I saw somewhere is to adjust the rear brakes after installing new fronts. Seems that incorrectly adjusted rears can cause incorrect pressure to be applied to the fronts or something like that.

    http://www.blazinlow.com/forum/showthread.php?s=&threadid=43359&highlight=brakes
    of course i didnt lube the front of the pads :rolleyes: i lubed the back with brake pad lubricant.... im not a total idiot lol just this sticking thing has me stumped im a mechanic ive done hundreds upon hundreds of brake jobs just never seen anything like this.
    Last edited by holeshot; 01-02-2005 at 10:04 PM.

  9. #9
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    sticky brakes

    replace the front brake hoses... after a while of driving the rubber breaks down and it can come apart inside the hose and act like a one way valve leting fluid into the caliper and not backout thuss causing a "sticking caliper", dude replace the hoses what could it hurt, they should be replaced at 50,000 miles anyway

  10. #10
    holeshot
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    Re: sticky brakes

    Originally posted by jhend224
    replace the front brake hoses... after a while of driving the rubber breaks down and it can come apart inside the hose and act like a one way valve leting fluid into the caliper and not backout thuss causing a "sticking caliper", dude replace the hoses what could it hurt, they should be replaced at 50,000 miles anyway
    well i thought of this correct me if im wrong but if the rubber is breaking down inside, the rubber line should be expanding under braking pressure i checked it and it was fine, had my cousin press the brakes while i held the line.

  11. #11
    Smash it 4.3 zach's Avatar
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    your not going to be able to feel the lines expanding... they are reinforced with metal. If they are dry rotted then replace them, if they are not then they should be fine
    06 ccsb 2/5 drop, SS 20's, 370, L92 Heads, LT's/ORY, 237/242 .603/609 112, 2pc. driveshaft, 4l80e, 3500 stall, 12.8 @ 106

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  12. #12
    holeshot
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    Originally posted by 4.3 zach
    your not going to be able to feel the lines expanding... they are reinforced with metal. If they are dry rotted then replace them, if they are not then they should be fine
    i have seen lines swell up like ballons it makes your pedal feel like your booster is bad, and my lines arent rotted they look perfectly fine not a crack to be seen

  13. #13
    Registered User ZZ4Blazer's Avatar
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    I'd be willing to bet its your rubber lines also. They can break down over time, and swell.

    AS well as, hold pressure in. For the couple of bucks they are, its worth a shot.
    Jim 94 Stepside
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  14. #14
    holeshot
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    but if one is swelling and the lines share the same main line from a tee connector than both side should be fuggin up correct?

  15. #15
    Registered User BoostedTy's Avatar
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    Third opinion for hoses. I had one vehicle that would not move after hitting the brakes 2 times. Even though the outside may be ok, they do break down internally, and a piece of the rubber literally acts like a check valve, and fluid gets forced past when you step on the pedal, but will not let the fluid back to towards the pedal for some time..
    The main line is probably fine. Its probably the one from the frame down to the caliper.....Part deals with extreme weather, hot cold, rain snow salt, etc.

    Gots to be de hoses!!!
    Damn.

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