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Thread: The Changing of my Blazer Begins.........and I have some ?'s

  1. #46
    Fiberglass Fabrication EpicenterDesigns's Avatar
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    Here is a pic of mine with a 4/4 drop on stock s10 tires. It rode better this way than it did factory. When I had the back full of stereo, it would bottom out ocasionally, but it also sat 1 - 1 1/2" lower in the back then.


    The bitter after-taste of a poor quality job will last far longer than the sweetness of that cheap price!

  2. #47
    Registered User jj97blazer's Avatar
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    yeah mine has marks from where it was. yeah id love you shave it all and have it all look smooth and what not but you do what you can do on a limited budget. i have no money so i do what i can until i can shave it. it looks fine and it dont leak so that all im worried about.
    Have you ever been kissed by a goat?

  3. #48
    ~*BrIgHt LiGhT*~ gizmoviki73's Avatar
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    dbornotdb~~~Thank you for the picture above. I was thinking of painting those black peices around windows white, like yours are in the pic too. My look horrible, GM should have thought of something else for them.

    And I'm all confused now. I have 3" coils and 4" blocks sitting next to me, waiting to go in. But, I'm scared to put such big blocks in, from what everyone says here. So I'm debating if I want to wait till end of next month and get spindles and new leafs/blocks for rear end. Then, I'd be everything Belltech but front coils. Plus, that crap is expensive, cuz I have to get 4 new shocks to???

    Sorry to seem so dumb, but I want my Blazer lowered RIGHT!!!

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  4. #49
    Switchcraft Customs DJ Nitrous 427's Avatar
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    yea...i kno wut everyone has said about the blocks but i have done alot of shit with mine and havent had ne trouble...shifting..cracking...chippping or nething...mine are the 4" DJM ones and they have a liftime warrantyeven after my accident they are still fine..ive been up to 100MPH (govenor)...puddle boggin...curb checked my rear tire n poped it...i havent had any problems
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  5. #50
    Registered User jj97blazer's Avatar
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    you can get toxic shock drop shocks from stylinconcepts.com for like $36 each.
    Have you ever been kissed by a goat?

  6. #51
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    Take one of the bolts to Lowes or Home Depot, use their thread blocks or nuts to figure out what thread it is, then order Set Screws from McMaster Carr Put some LocTite or thread sealant on them. Those would be perfect for using "Lead". Just fill up the hole with lead, bondo and sand.
    Touchup paint probably work good enough for the scratches. It's the roof after all

  7. #52
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    If you just put blocks in the rear, you won't need new rear shocks. The blocks space the axle upward from the leafspring/shock mounts. You can put extra stiff ones in there to help keep you from botteming out. If you put leaf springs in, you need shorter shocks.

    Anytime you lower the front more than an inch or two you'll need new shocks.

    4" is a big block but will most likely work fine 99% of the time. But 4" is an awefully big lever arm on the leaf spring. Spring wrap both accelerating and decelerating will increase. Long link traction bars, sort of like 2 link bars will cut down on that drastically, but to be effective they really need to be designed for the exact height.

    A 2" leaf spring and a 2" block is probably the best of both worlds. 4" de-arch springs are pretty flat. Either gotta make them stiffer or they are bouncy. I always thought about using one of those Air Ride Load Leveler or similar, a second spring of sorts to act as a progressive bumpstop.
    Last edited by PGHBLazin; 01-31-2005 at 10:54 PM.

  8. #53
    Fiberglass Fabrication EpicenterDesigns's Avatar
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    Install what you have. With the 4" blocks in the rear of mine, it was great. No bottoming out. Stock shocks worked fine.

    3" in the front should be good for ya. I didn't read over everything again to see if you had drop spindles. I'm assuming no, so stock shocks "might" work, but I would get lower shocks just because you wanna do it right.
    :bigthumb: Go for it. It will look good.



    By the way, the trim around the window is primer. It was all pitted out from the sun so I sanded it down, then sprayed it with filler primer. Will paint it black when the time comes.


    The bitter after-taste of a poor quality job will last far longer than the sweetness of that cheap price!

  9. #54
    Registered User FabianSS357's Avatar
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    Gizmoviki..
    i know your looking to drop your vehilce the "right " way, but you cant go wrong with blocks and coils to begin with, there are different opinions when it comes to how to do it right..

    personally i have 2 inch drop spindles and dropped coils,
    the coil effectively drops the whole suspension of that corner, meaning you have less suspension travel if you hit a big bump, and a spindle just relocates the wheel higher up in turn making the vehicle sit lower.

    in theory you dont want to go with a huge drop on coils as you might run into the chance of bottoming out on bumps, and it would hurt your ride quality. A mix of spindles and coils to get the desired drop is always good.

    As for swaping the coils it is a very simple proccess, but requires a special tool to do it right and saftely.

    We dont have too many women in this sport to lose one.. so you must be very carfull when working with somthing like this.


    The following is just a guide of what youll encounter with removing your coils. I have a first gen truck and you have a newer style and although they have the same basic layout, a second gen owner may have better details and tips to help you achieve this on your own.

    make sure to get the coil compressor tool, most autoparts stores have them and you can rent them out, and usually they will refund you 100% upon return of the tool.
    Try to get one with two claws on both the top and bottom, i have noticed cheaper types and havent felt safe using them.

    you seem like you have a good head on your shoulders so i am going to omit all the typical "warnings" stuff and get to the heart of the matter

    lift the front of the truck, as to not have any wieght on the suspension itself, place your jackstands on the frame or other support areas as nessecary.

    After placing your truck saftely on some sort of jack stand/ lift procced to take off your wheels, and turn the wheels to the side your working on.
    After that is off you should see your brakes and spindle assembly, do one side at a time incase you get lost you have the other side still bolted up right.

    there should be a shock mounted inside the coil, with a nut holding the top of it, and two bots holdin the bottom, i always take the top out first.. dont know why just a habit, after removing the shock, you insert the special coill tool and let it grab the upper part of the coil and the lower part as far apart as you can get it... your coil should be pretty expanded being that the truck is lifted and the weight is not resting on the front suspension.

    at this time note how the coil sits inside its poclet, there should be a small "dip" where the end of the coil rests on the bottom.

    the removal tool has a BIG screw in the middle that as it is turned makes the two opposite ends come closer together, effectively compressing the coil.

    MAKE SURE YOU ARE CAREFUL THAT THE TOOL IS GRIPPING AS IT SHOULD, COILS WHEN COMPRESSED HAVE A HIGH TENSION AND COULD CAUSE PERSONAL INJURY

    after you have compressed it as far as possible you should be able to snake it out of the coil cup/seat and free from the suspension. Turning of the wheels may aid in this in order to lear the tie rod ends.

    then back the removal tool out slowly and let the spring extend, you may need some help in removing it as it may still have some tension after backing it all out.

    then insert the coil tool in your dropped spring and work your way backward making sure to seat the new coil properly in the pocket.

    sorry for the long read, but hopefully this will guide you to what your up against. ITs nice to see a woman wanting to do the work herself!
    and if anyone sees anything i left out or stated falsely please feel free to correct me as its almost midnight and i need some sleep
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  10. #55
    ~*BrIgHt LiGhT*~ gizmoviki73's Avatar
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    So, all I have to do is remove shock, compress spring and remove? I don't have to remove calipers of anything else? Kewl, I can do this!!!

    I got my tails in and new gauge sticker thing in this past weekend. This weekend I'll remove roof rack. I'd do springs this weekend, but hubby is getting his step notch installed, so I won't have a "guy" around if I need one. Then the following weekend is Blood Drag, so doesn't look like it's happening soon:( .

    Thanx again all, I REALLY appreciate it.

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  11. #56
    i stay come soon concept's Avatar
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    if your just replacing the coils, i think its easier to go from the back. remove shocks, unbolt lower control, lower jack slowly to release spring tension, take out coils, then replace coils and repeat steps backwards.
    or you can just take off the brake rotors, shocks, unbolt the lower nut of the spindle and swaybar.. and push the lower control arm away from you.. i used to do the method of pushing the LCA with my foot and grabbing the coils with my hand.. if your worried about the spring flying out on you, you can chain the coil to the frame.
    Last edited by concept; 02-01-2005 at 05:56 PM.

  12. #57
    Registered User syclonekid43's Avatar
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    when i bagged my 1st gen. i had to remove the rotoe cause the lower ball joint would get caught on the dust shield.
    91 GMC SYCLONE(fast),88 2wd blazer(old school and sold),88 S-10 BLAZER(sold),92 4dr 2wd blazer(pink and bagged)93' s-10 blazer(plow truck),88 GTA TUNE PORT(blown motor),97 MXZ 670,01 YAMAHA RAPTOR(sleeping),87 YSR 50 CC WITH A 125 CC(never be done)
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  13. #58
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    One question about the 4inch in the back do you have to trim anythng to make it work? Bumpstops?

  14. #59
    Switchcraft Customs DJ Nitrous 427's Avatar
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    I have a 2nd gen n i had to cut about 2 inches off bumpstop..thats it
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  15. #60
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    also i have read that you have to do somthing to the break lines?
    Big D

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