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Thread: Bolt-in Notch Installation Procedure

  1. #1
    Search Button Mod BlazerINtheWork's Avatar
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    Bolt-in Notch Installation Procedure

    i am posting this how-to for the blazer bolt in c-notch that another member(94blz327) sent to me.



    This is a how to for installing a bolt in frame notch. The vehicle pictured is a 94 4 door 2
    wheel drive blazer. Other blazers are similar in frame design but there are some
    differences between models and years. For example, on this blazer the fuel lines are
    located above the frame rails, which makes installing the notch very easy. Most others
    have the fuel lines located on the inside of the left frame rail. Care must be exercised
    when using cutting tools near the fuel lines or disastrous results may occur. (major fire)


    Notice the fuel lines above the frame rail in the picture. Again, most blazers have fuel
    lines located inside the rail. Not impossible to deal with but it does add time.
    Originally posted by Baggd2DaXtreeme
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    Quote Originally Posted by banginjimmy(in reference to BlazinLow) View Post
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  2. #2
    Search Button Mod BlazerINtheWork's Avatar
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    I bought the bolt in kit from Suicide Doors.com. This kit is the bent version to match the
    frame bend. On a few of the blazers the frame bends slightly inward as it turns down just
    above and forward of the axle. From the top view you can see the slight bend inward. Not
    all blazers use the bent frame, be sure to check yours before you purchase the kit. This is
    probably one of the best-built kits I have ever installed. Excellent quality and
    suicidedoors.com was able to get it to me rather quickly.
    Originally posted by Baggd2DaXtreeme
    anyone who posts regularly and doesnt donate is a freeloader.
    Quote Originally Posted by banginjimmy(in reference to BlazinLow) View Post
    There are those times where its simply better than real life
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  3. #3
    Search Button Mod BlazerINtheWork's Avatar
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    To start the install, ensure you have the vehicle supported securely on jack stands
    supporting the frame in front of the rear leaf springs. Never, I REPEAT never, get
    under a vehicle that is not supported by jack stands or a lift. Using just a floor jack is
    crazy and you will surely end up damaging yourself. Ok, soapbox off.
    Once you have the truck on jack stands, remove the tires and gather the tools you need. I
    used a plasma cutter and oxy/acetylene torch along with grinders, sockets, impact wrench
    etc. Oh yeah, a drill as well with a inch bit (sharp one preferred).
    Next you will need to remove the factory bump stop that is welded to the frame. The
    notch bolts in right where the bump stop is located.



    I have 3 inch drop leafs and 2 inch blocks. This is what it looks like when the suspension
    is loaded. Very close to hitting just sitting, when driving the axle slams into the frame.
    Not good. You can see the bump stop in place in this picture. You will be removing it
    completely from the side and bottom of the frame on both sides of the truck.
    Originally posted by Baggd2DaXtreeme
    anyone who posts regularly and doesnt donate is a freeloader.
    Quote Originally Posted by banginjimmy(in reference to BlazinLow) View Post
    There are those times where its simply better than real life
    4 Door Love

  4. #4
    Search Button Mod BlazerINtheWork's Avatar
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    Cut the metal near the frame and use a grinder to grind off all the welds so the frame is
    smooth. This will take some time. You can use a torch, plasma cutter if available, (you
    can rent plasma cutters rather cheaply) sawsall or any other idea you may have to remove
    the bump stops.
    Originally posted by Baggd2DaXtreeme
    anyone who posts regularly and doesnt donate is a freeloader.
    Quote Originally Posted by banginjimmy(in reference to BlazinLow) View Post
    There are those times where its simply better than real life
    4 Door Love

  5. #5
    Search Button Mod BlazerINtheWork's Avatar
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    After grinding the frame smooth you can line up the template. To do this you need to
    locate the center of the notch and the centerline of the axle. Measure the distance at the
    top of the opening and divide in half for the center, mark the measurement on the
    template. Notice the blue line on the template located in the center of the notch. Once
    that is marked you need to find the centerline of the axle and mark that location on the
    frame. NOTE: Jack the axle up to where the normal ride height would be. Then, using a
    plumb bob, (weight on a string) line up the string with the center of the axle and mark
    that location on the frame. Notice again the blue line on the frame. If you do not mark
    the centerline with the axle jacked up it will be off by up to inch. Also ensure if you
    are using drop blocks that you have them installed for this measurement. Once marked
    you can let the axle back down.
    Originally posted by Baggd2DaXtreeme
    anyone who posts regularly and doesnt donate is a freeloader.
    Quote Originally Posted by banginjimmy(in reference to BlazinLow) View Post
    There are those times where its simply better than real life
    4 Door Love

  6. #6
    Search Button Mod BlazerINtheWork's Avatar
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    Another view of the marks in line with the axle.
    Drill pilot holes at the eight locations on the template. If your fuel lines are in the frame
    rail, be very careful not to hit them. I used a 1/8 inch bit for this. Also scribe the notch
    opening onto the frame using a sharp scribe or similar tool. Using a marker may not
    work the best, as the heat tends to burn the ink off or make it hard to see.
    After the locations are marked, remove the template and drill the pilot holes to inch for
    the bolts. I used a bit of oil on the tip of the bit as I drilled the holes to keep the drill bit
    sharp and it makes it easier to cut through. Reduce friction, name of the game.
    Once the holes are drilled and, before cutting out the notch, you should support the rear
    of the truck near the bumper area on the frame. I used a floor jack and 4x4 chunk of
    wood to do this. You do not want to lift the truck up, but instead support the frame so it
    will not sag when you cut the notch out. Most of the time the frame should be strong
    Originally posted by Baggd2DaXtreeme
    anyone who posts regularly and doesnt donate is a freeloader.
    Quote Originally Posted by banginjimmy(in reference to BlazinLow) View Post
    There are those times where its simply better than real life
    4 Door Love

  7. #7
    Search Button Mod BlazerINtheWork's Avatar
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    enough without support but why risk it. Cut out the marked notch area with the cutter of
    choice and clean the edges up with a grinder if needed. If you have the fuel lines on the
    inside of the rail on the drivers side, you may want to use a cut off wheel to minimize
    heat buildup near the fuel lines. You could also stick a small piece of sheet metal
    between the lines and frame to deflect sparks if you are using a plasma cutter or torch.




    After you have the notch cut out, test fit the bolt in notch. It should line up to the holes
    you drilled. If not you may need to adjust the opening by slightly grinding the notch
    opening here and there until it fits perfectly. This step took me a bit of time to make sure
    it fit ok. After you have it test fitting as it should be, use a wire wheel or brush to clean
    off the frame area that the notch will cover. Once cleaned off apply a little rattle can
    paint to keep things from rusting up. You can also see that I had to cut into the cross-brace
    a bit to get the notch to fit.
    Originally posted by Baggd2DaXtreeme
    anyone who posts regularly and doesnt donate is a freeloader.
    Quote Originally Posted by banginjimmy(in reference to BlazinLow) View Post
    There are those times where its simply better than real life
    4 Door Love

  8. #8
    Search Button Mod BlazerINtheWork's Avatar
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    Drilled, cleaned, painted and ready to accept the bolt in notch.


    Now set the notch in place and install all eight bolts loosely, (bolts go thru the notch,
    then the frame, then backed by the flat washer, lock washer and finally the nut) (I know,
    this should be basic but I put it in anyway). Once all the bolts are installed loosely you
    can tighten them all up. The bolts in the kit were grade 8 and should be able to withstand
    a fair amount of torque to get them tight. (80 ft-lb) After all the bolts are tight you are
    basically done. I also painted the notch part as well to prevent rusting etc.
    Originally posted by Baggd2DaXtreeme
    anyone who posts regularly and doesnt donate is a freeloader.
    Quote Originally Posted by banginjimmy(in reference to BlazinLow) View Post
    There are those times where its simply better than real life
    4 Door Love

  9. #9
    Search Button Mod BlazerINtheWork's Avatar
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    Here it is, bolted in, rattle can painted and ready to go!
    Originally posted by Baggd2DaXtreeme
    anyone who posts regularly and doesnt donate is a freeloader.
    Quote Originally Posted by banginjimmy(in reference to BlazinLow) View Post
    There are those times where its simply better than real life
    4 Door Love

  10. #10
    Search Button Mod BlazerINtheWork's Avatar
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    In this shot I jacked the axle back up so you can see the newly created clearance provided
    by the bolt in notch. The wet stuff is oil from drilling the holes in case you were
    wondering.



    Once completed, put the wheels back on, let the truck down off the stands and test drive.
    You will notice a huge improvement! On my truck the axle still bumped a bit on the
    exhaust and the ride was rather soft. I had used drop shocks, which seemed ok but a little
    soft. I replaced the drop shocks with air-shocks to stiffen the ride a bit and it cured the
    problems. With about 60 psi in the shocks, the truck rides great, sits low, and handles
    nice! Overall this project took me about 5 hours to complete. Some may take longer and
    some may get done quicker, all depending on experience and tools used. Nice tools make
    things go much faster. Hopefully this how to helps you out with your project.
    Originally posted by Baggd2DaXtreeme
    anyone who posts regularly and doesnt donate is a freeloader.
    Quote Originally Posted by banginjimmy(in reference to BlazinLow) View Post
    There are those times where its simply better than real life
    4 Door Love

  11. #11
    LT1 Inside
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    How big is this notch?
    1994 S10 Blazer - LT1/4L60E, 3.42s
    1994 S10 Longbed - LB4/NV3500, 2.73s

  12. #12
    Registered User i3owdown's Avatar
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    great post. that is going to help out a lot of people:bigthumb:
    http://www.cardomain.com/id/i3owdown

    Http://www.streetsourcemag.com/Profile.asp?profileid=11002

    .:bowdown:

  13. #13
    Search Button Mod BlazerINtheWork's Avatar
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    Originally posted by navecm
    How big is this notch?

    i believe is adds 2.25'' of clearance.

    here is the thread jason made when he first made it. answers alot of general type questions. click here
    Originally posted by Baggd2DaXtreeme
    anyone who posts regularly and doesnt donate is a freeloader.
    Quote Originally Posted by banginjimmy(in reference to BlazinLow) View Post
    There are those times where its simply better than real life
    4 Door Love

  14. #14
    Registered User x_concepts's Avatar
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    Originally posted by i3owdown
    great post. that is going to help out a lot of people:bigthumb:
    Word. This should be stickied.
    VLAD

    My 95

  15. #15
    Registered User 94blz327's Avatar
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    B.I.T.W, Thanks for putting that up for me!

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