Page 1 of 4 123 ... LastLast
Results 1 to 15 of 59

Thread: Painting Plastic Interior Pieces

  1. #1
    Fiberglass Fabrication EpicenterDesigns's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2002
    Location
    Bradenton- FL........hammerin'-grindin'-sandin'-primin'
    Posts
    7,408

    Painting Plastic Interior Pieces

    This question comes up all the time. There is more than 1 way to do it. So I wrote down how I do it. It seems to work out perfectly.
    Works equally well with automotive paints and spray can paints.



    If you have something you can add to it, feel free to post it here and let me know.




    To make sure your panels are oil free, like from Armour All and shit, wipe them down several times with a wax and grease remover. If they are really Armour All'ed down, use a brake cleaner.

    Get a bucket of soapy water to wetsand with.
    Sand the grain out of them with a 80 grit wetsand. Get at least 75% of the grain out. Then wetsand with a 150 - 180 grit. Then move to a wetsand with 220 grit. If for some reason you are odd and like the grain look, skip that part.

    Clean the panel again with wax and grease remover and also a tack cloth. I suggest wearing latex gloves to keep oils from your hands transfereing to the panels.

    Spary the panel with an Adheisive Promoter. Follow directions on can.

    Spray with FILLER primer. As many coats as are needed to fill in all the grain. For small items such as trim panels, kick panels and pillars, SEM makes a filler Primer that is awsome or you can use Duplicolor Grey Filler Primer. They also have a red rust colored filler primer. Avoid it. For some reason it sand horrible.

    Wetsand that with 220. If you see your self going to deep into the plastic before you are happy with the finish, dry and clean the panel off with wax and grease remover and spray more primer on it. Keep this process till happy. Final wetsand with 400 grit.

    Clean the panel with wax and grease remover and a tack cloth and then paint.

    Spray as many coats as you like, 3 is usually plenty, and do it in light coats as heavy will clog and run. Let it dry in the sun if possible as long as you can. Overnight is prefered. If you feel there are some imperfections, wet sand with 600 or more till you are happy. Clean it real good and then spray a clear coat over it. Again in light coats.

    I try to let the clear coat dry for a couple days for best results.
    Last edited by EpicenterDesigns; 03-30-2006 at 10:19 AM.


    The bitter after-taste of a poor quality job will last far longer than the sweetness of that cheap price!

  2. #2
    Senior Member BadBrad469's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2003
    Location
    Highlands TX
    Posts
    1,450
    i move for this post to be a sticky ;)
    Originally posted by bigjsp
    I'd love to keep the blacks and other contributing members of society around. Move the niggers and wiggers and all those who think they are "owed a living" to Austrailia.
    2 DOOR LOVE

  3. #3
    Fiberglass Fabrication EpicenterDesigns's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2002
    Location
    Bradenton- FL........hammerin'-grindin'-sandin'-primin'
    Posts
    7,408
    Originally posted by BadBrad469
    i move for this post to be a sticky ;)



    Well if the New Brown Power wants to sticky it, I will, or he can, copy and paste it here and remove the TSGearhead link.


    The bitter after-taste of a poor quality job will last far longer than the sweetness of that cheap price!

  4. #4
    Registered User Blaz90's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2002
    Location
    San Diego, CA
    Posts
    1,138
    Sounds real good, but I'm confused about this part "dry in the sun if possible as long as you can. Overnight "!












    j/k
    Good info!

  5. #5
    Fiberglass Fabrication EpicenterDesigns's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2002
    Location
    Bradenton- FL........hammerin'-grindin'-sandin'-primin'
    Posts
    7,408
    Originally posted by Blaz90
    Sounds real good, but I'm confused about this part "dry in the sun if possible as long as you can. Overnight "!





    Dry in the sun as long as possible. It will yeild best results.
    Letting it sit overnight would be best but check it in the morning in a hidden spot for softness.
    Don't want to handle it and leave prints on it.


    The bitter after-taste of a poor quality job will last far longer than the sweetness of that cheap price!

  6. #6
    No Label NoShineAllPrime's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2002
    Location
    Oklahoma
    Posts
    546
    Link doesnt work for me???

    Originally posted by vader
    4. It's o.k. to be proud of your race as long as you're not white.

  7. #7
    Registered User x_concepts's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Location
    Texas
    Posts
    2,746
    Originally posted by NoShineAllPrime
    Link doesnt work for me???
    Thats because the site is down at this time. Try again later.
    VLAD

    My 95

  8. #8
    No Label NoShineAllPrime's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2002
    Location
    Oklahoma
    Posts
    546
    Oh ok thanks:bigthumb:

    Originally posted by vader
    4. It's o.k. to be proud of your race as long as you're not white.

  9. #9
    Subsonic Kustomz TooLowTooGo's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Location
    Dirty Jerz
    Posts
    5,660
    hey.. the only adhesive promoter i can find is by BULLDOG

    lol never heard of it...

  10. #10
    Fiberglass Fabrication EpicenterDesigns's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2002
    Location
    Bradenton- FL........hammerin'-grindin'-sandin'-primin'
    Posts
    7,408
    Originally posted by TooLowTooGo
    hey.. the only adhesive promoter i can find is by BULLDOG

    lol never heard of it...


    Bulldog is the better stuff. It is probally the best out of a spray can.


    The bitter after-taste of a poor quality job will last far longer than the sweetness of that cheap price!

  11. #11
    Registered User toals's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Location
    Hampton, IL
    Posts
    1,273
    Good info - thanks for sharing db. I'll have to try it now!

  12. #12
    Hero SprayingSmooth's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    TEXAS DOWN SOUTH
    Posts
    169
    sem makes an adhesion promoter they make it in a spray can and a liquid it works good thats what we use at the shop
    Work is not man's punishment. It is his reward and his strength and his pleasure.

  13. #13
    punch your face catch's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2002
    Location
    British Columbia
    Posts
    1,131
    how much of a difference does it make when you dont wet sand? I plan on just sanding mine down... but if the results are drastically worse, perhaps i should wetsand?

    anyone tried both?

  14. #14
    Fiberglass Fabrication EpicenterDesigns's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2002
    Location
    Bradenton- FL........hammerin'-grindin'-sandin'-primin'
    Posts
    7,408
    This is how I see it.

    Dry sanding cause the paper to clogged easier. Causeing less sanding as you do it and more time to constantly clean the paper out.

    Wet sanding, especially when you use a bucket of soapy water, will clean the panel as you go. Also keeps the paper clear longer and aids in the cutting.


    Just my obsevations.


    The bitter after-taste of a poor quality job will last far longer than the sweetness of that cheap price!

  15. #15
    Registered User
    Join Date
    Aug 2005
    Location
    gardner ks
    Posts
    1
    good job u seem to know ur shit i like ur info will try very soon let u know how it comes out

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •