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Thread: Painting Plastic Interior Pieces

  1. #31
    paint, paint, paint mixbreedblaze's Avatar
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    Im going through this whole process now on a frontier.....wooo hooo...

    Ive been using a plastics cleaner, that comes in a spraycan. Just spray on and wipe off, it seems to really draw all the nasty shit out from the grains, and leaves the surface feeling like new. I think its a Dupont product, plas-tiks, or sumthin like that and their adhesion promoter is the shizzle.

    Just to those whom decide to use the Dupli-color primer surfacer/filler.... make SURE that its the filler and not sealer, cuz if you get the wrong shit like sealer, and then spray a filler primer over that, oooooooo yer gonna have fun. The shit turns to a gooey ass mess.
    Which brings me to my next point...........Bulldog paint stripper will not eat up plastiks. I spent forever tryin to read up and find a stripper that would not eat plastiks.
    And watch primer and paint build up on the edges where bezels and heater vents go back, dont want them scratchin each other up.....

    Just some extra info from my experience......


    But still got a ?.... so what do you use on the airbag cover that is that soft vinyl shit. I got everything else down, just not sure how to go about attacking that thing....... Im needing it to match the rest of the dash, so a dye or whatever wont work, since I am airbrushin it all.......
    and ? 2..........what would you suggest on filling small knicks in the plastic and deep scratches....
    4-door, shaved handles, shaved antenna, lowered, welded and shaved body seams, rollpan with plate off to left side, two tone tweed, custom paint and airbrush, Mazzi Sphinx 2 17"s.....

    Your idea of a thrill ride: Six Flags. My idea of a thrill ride: teeter-tottering on a speed bump

  2. #32
    Fiberglass Fabrication EpicenterDesigns's Avatar
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    I am gonna assume that the nicks and scratches are pretty deep and the filler primers won't fill them or you just want to start of with a smooth surface.

    I have 2 products to share with you.
    The first one is a plastic surgury repair compound. You mix it like regular body fillers in a 1:1 ratio. They have 3 different variations for your needs.






    XPSAP Semi-Rigid Epoxy is a two-component semi rigid modified epoxy designed as an “ALL PURPOSE” plastic repair material. XPSAP’s unique formulation allows you to use this product on the full spectrum of automotive plastics. When in doubt on which type of plastic (flexible, semi-rigid, or rigid) you are repairing use XPSAP. XPSAP is formulated to work on all plastics including the more common and also the traditional “tough to bond” plastics (TPUR, PUR, RIM, PP, TPO, TPE). This product is designed as an adhesive and filler to be used on the front and backsides of a repair. XPSAP can also be used over our Urethane Repair material (XSMAP, XSM11000). XPSAP is an outstanding Semi-Rigid filler that is commonly used as a glaze coat over all types of plastics due to its easy sanding and featheredging characteristics. XPSAP may also be used as a multipurpose adhesive. Some areas of use include: door skins (metal and plastic), rusted patch panels, backer panels (metal, SMC, Fiberglass, and Rigid Plastics), ground effects, etc. XPSAP bonds, fills, and sands with outstanding performance. This semi-rigid adhesive/filler is used and approved by automotive OEMs such as GM, Toyota, VW and many others. The “Original Plastic Surgery” as used by the professionals.

    XRF Rigid Epoxy is a two-component modified rigid epoxy designed for the repair of rigid composite plastics and fiberglass. XRF is formulated to work on all rigid composite plastics including (SMC, BMC & RTM). XRF is ideal for use on fiberglass parts where extra strength is required. This product is designed as an adhesive and filler on the front and backsides of repairs. XRF can also be used over our Urethane Repair material (XSMAR). XRF is an excellent rigid filler that is commonly used by the professional plastic repairers due to its sanding, adhesion and featheredging characteristics. XRF may also be used to bond non structural metal, SMC, Fiberglass, Rigid plastics, and glass. XRF bonds, fills, and sands with no pinholes. This rigid adhesive/filler is also used and approved by automotive OEMs such as GM, Toyota, VW and many others. The “Original Plastic Surgery” as used by the professionals.

    OEM Approved Epoxy
    Rigid Bonding & Plastic Repair

    XRFNTR is a two-part Rigid Bonding epoxy designed for use on Rigid thermoset plastics and fiberglass. XRFNTR is formulated to Bond all Rigid plastics such as SMC, BMC, RTM, Fiberglass and all fiber reinforced plastics. Excellent on header panels & headlight housings and can be drilled & tapped.
    Used and approved for Rigid Plastic Bonding or filling applications by many OEM such as GM, Toyota, VW and others. XRFNTR offers high heat resistance with excellent tooling. XRFNTR can also be used for the bonding of Non Structural metal panels if a two-part bonding adhesive is desired in a manual-mixing tube kit. XRFNTR may be used to bond patch panels, door skins, quarter panels, and most Non Structural metal panels. XRFNTR may also be used as a side channel glass adhesive. Please see “Instructions for Panel Bonding” prior to using as a metal bonder.


    The bitter after-taste of a poor quality job will last far longer than the sweetness of that cheap price!

  3. #33
    Fiberglass Fabrication EpicenterDesigns's Avatar
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    The 2nd item is a fairly new product by Evercoat. Probally more suited towards blending and repaing broken plastics and stuff.

    I have bought some of this, just haven't used it yet. Been using the Dominion Seal stuff. But I do have a project I am gonna use the Fibre Tech stuff on.
    Here is a link to it........


    http://www.evercoat.com/productDetail.aspx


    The bitter after-taste of a poor quality job will last far longer than the sweetness of that cheap price!

  4. #34
    Registered User toals's Avatar
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    Thank You db.

    :bowdown: :bowdown: :bowdown:

  5. #35
    Registered User Blaz90's Avatar
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    As always you the man db!

  6. #36
    IlluSive XpecTaionS l1ld3v1lrydr's Avatar
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    ne1 have any pix of how theirs came out after doing all this?
    :tongue: w1shf00l th1nk1n' :boink:

    4 door love... or... love-in the 4 door... :bigthumb:



  7. #37
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    use bull dog its the best.the paint sticks real well.scuff it up and spray the bulldog thn plastic primer.i painted evry piece in my ford this way,including the grab handles.even was able to flake and clear them

  8. #38
    Gone but not forgotten 0adam0's Avatar
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    been a while since anyone posted on this but it looks like i'm getting ready to do some of this and was wondering, i want to paint some pieces that are just a pain in the ass to take out, but have easy access..i.e. windsheild pillars, top of dash. Would there be any harm in taping off the area and sanding and painting them while they remain in the vehicle.
    If your going to be original, you can count on being copied

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    http://www.blazinlow.com/forum/showthread.php?s=&threadid=64443

  9. #39
    Fiberglass Fabrication EpicenterDesigns's Avatar
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    The pillars come out easy. Try harder.
    The top of the dash is another story.
    You will have to mask off everything really good, but it is possible.
    I wouldn't do it. I would pull the dash.


    The bitter after-taste of a poor quality job will last far longer than the sweetness of that cheap price!

  10. #40
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    i pulled the dash in my blazer...wish i had left it in and jus did it all in the truck, but jus my opinion

  11. #41
    Nubcake Creager's Avatar
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    post some pics up and show us how it came out
    Don't make me beat you like a runaway slave....
    4 Door Love
    Originally posted by S/T Lover
    Good God, you are a fucking retard. I should ban you for being a fucking waste of sperm.

  12. #42
    Registered User jason.az1's Avatar
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    post pics of your guys INT'
    also what happens if you dont use clearcoat, isnt clearcoat just to make it shinny?

    also how does your guys INT' hold up as a daily? and does the INT' go dull after a month or does it last?
    http://www.myspace.com/draganddestroyaz

  13. #43
    Got Lambos? Slicker's Avatar
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    I mainly used clear as both a shine factor and a protecting layer. Without it I'd have scratched it all to hell in a week but it seems to do a decent job of keeping my dumb ass from scratching it.

    As for dulling I've had mine done for over a year now and it looks just like the day I finished it.

    These are the only pics I have of my interior done just like db wrote up:




    Only thing 4 doors are good for is...1 car...

  14. #44
    Registered User jason.az1's Avatar
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    Originally posted by jason.az1
    post pics of your guys INT'
    also what happens if you dont use clearcoat, isnt clearcoat just to make it shinny?

    also how does your guys INT' hold up as a daily? and does the INT' go dull after a month or does it last?
    what do you use to clean off i uhrd ARM' hurts it becuz i uaslly go to carwashes to wash my shit so what should i tell them to use ?
    http://www.myspace.com/draganddestroyaz

  15. #45
    Fiberglass Fabrication EpicenterDesigns's Avatar
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    Originally posted by jason.az1
    what do you use to clean off i uhrd ARM' hurts it becuz i uaslly go to carwashes to wash my shit so what should i tell them to use ?


    Tell them NOT to do the interior. You will do it.
    Earlier in the thread, I posted pics of what to use.


    The bitter after-taste of a poor quality job will last far longer than the sweetness of that cheap price!

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