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Thread: does anyone run on the 1/8 mile drag strips

  1. #31
    I'm no post whore Ericoo1's Avatar
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    what makes the 4.3 better than the vette radiator? Not that I doubt what you are saying, jut curious?

  2. #32
    Registered User ZZ4Blazer's Avatar
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    I have not ordered them yet. I dont' have the cash yet. Thats future plans for this winter. I am undecided on which CC's I want to get, cause now, i think I will be running a supercharger. Most likely, I will order a set of aluminum(I don't think they come in cast) 195's with a set of springs for a higher lift hydrualic cam, and some Ti retainers. Maybe even the hydra- rev kit. Im not sure yet. Depends on my cash flow.


    The stock 4.3 radiator is alittle bit bigger than the vette radiator. By just switching them, I dropped 7-10 degrees. The bigger 4.3 radiator also allowed me to to run the dual electric flexolitefans. They fit the radiator perfect, like it was made for it. My combo works fine for my motor. All are different, but I wouldn't waste your money on the vette radiator
    Jim 94 Stepside
    ZZ430 clone V8
    NX kit in the works
    Tremec T56 6 speed
    8.5" rear
    Quote Originally Posted by Harley
    Go before show any day of the week.

  3. #33
    LQ4 m8w6r77's Avatar
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    do all of you guys still have the condensor(i think that is what is called) in front of the radiator? b/c i was think of putting the a/c back on at a later date.

  4. #34
    Registered User 355Blazer's Avatar
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    hey m8w6r77, i dont,I wouldnt even think of adding my a/c,power steering,or power brakes back lol.For that matter i dont want to even put the radio back.

  5. #35
    Registered User ZZ4Blazer's Avatar
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    Eww no. My truck is a driver, not a strip baby. I have my power brakes, steering, etc. I did loose my A/C though. I could never go without a radio. Drives me nuts to not drive with some kind of tunes going.
    Jim 94 Stepside
    ZZ430 clone V8
    NX kit in the works
    Tremec T56 6 speed
    8.5" rear
    Quote Originally Posted by Harley
    Go before show any day of the week.

  6. #36
    Registered User Yenko's Avatar
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    Originally posted by ZZ4Blazer
    I have not ordered them yet. I dont' have the cash yet. Thats future plans for this winter. I am undecided on which CC's I want to get, cause now, i think I will be running a supercharger. Most likely, I will order a set of aluminum(I don't think they come in cast) 195's with a set of springs for a higher lift hydrualic cam, and some Ti retainers. Maybe even the hydra- rev kit. Im not sure yet. Depends on my cash flow.


    The stock 4.3 radiator is alittle bit bigger than the vette radiator. By just switching them, I dropped 7-10 degrees. The bigger 4.3 radiator also allowed me to to run the dual electric flexolitefans. They fit the radiator perfect, like it was made for it. My combo works fine for my motor. All are different, but I wouldn't waste your money on the vette radiator
    jagsthatrun says that the corvette radiator is better and you say the Blazer radiator is better. From the spec's that are below from Modine website, the Blazer radiator is bigger. Now I'm confussed. I'm starting to get all my parts for my 85 S10 Blazer conversion but I thought I'd look into getting a better radiator but now I'm totaly lost and don't know what to do. I know that jtr is trying to sell the vette radiator but I just want to buy the best radiator to keep the motor cool why'll I have the AC on. Can you help me ZZ4Blazer. Is your radiator a GM(OEM) radiator or a aftermarket replacement radiator? I'm also going to use the 4.3 fan shroud to help or aid in cooling the motor. Since I'm going to use the serpentine brackets and pulleys, I may not be able to run a flex or clutch fan but might need a electric fan in front of the radiator(may not even be able to use the 4.3 shroud either).


    1986-1988 Corvette heavy-duty radiator

    1987 Corvette radiator spec's

    1992 Blazer radiator spec's
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    ISRA# 18696

    CMA

  7. #37
    Registered User ZZ4Blazer's Avatar
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    I didn't see any difference in the radiators, less the fact that the factory was bigger. That is the only reason I see for it to cool that little bit better. I bought into their suggestions, and purchased the vette radiator. Keep in mine my blazer was a 4.3 TBI 5 speed, 104k miles when I did the swap. I ended up having the motor tq into the vette radiator, and the fan cut it to shreds. Being in the mood I was in, and lack of funds at the time, I pulled my original factory radiator from the parts pile and reinstalled it.

    On a cool day 75-, my truck runs at 155 degrees on the eway. Im turning 2000 rpm though. It will run under 180-185 all day in traffic. 70/30 mix of coolant, 160 thermo, and flexolite trimline 12' electric puller fans. I even have underdrives, so that don't help out in cooling. I have my fans set to turn on at 180 degree's, and most of the time they don't even turn on.

    Now A/C, thats a different ballgame. I don't think my electric fans would pull enough air with the condenser in front of it. Summit sells a Be-cool radiator for a v8 swap. But, its $350 for an automtic tranny radiator. I was gonna try it out if my electric fans didn't work out.

    http://store.summitracing.com/partde...DC0D14DA994%7D

    Add that one to your list too.
    Jim 94 Stepside
    ZZ430 clone V8
    NX kit in the works
    Tremec T56 6 speed
    8.5" rear
    Quote Originally Posted by Harley
    Go before show any day of the week.

  8. #38
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    I just got my radiator done last week. It is a 5 core- custom made.
    It cost me about $300, but should cool nicely. I started my truck up and it got hot, but I think it was because of an airpocket in the system somewhere. Any ideas on how to get rid of it? The only idea I have is to keep running it and fillin' it. Then letting it cool, etc. I'll have pics in a few days, I think it looks pretty factory. Any suggestions would be nice. I have a mechanical fan (reverse flow) on a serpentine system. thanks

  9. #39
    Registered User Yenko's Avatar
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    bigblockS10
    You'll have to get the motor running and have to let the motor run until the cooling system has pressure on it. Then that will be the time to undo one of the heater core line to let the airpocket release. If you listen real close, you will be able to hear it when you loosen the coolant line. If that does not work, there is a tool from Autozone that you can rent and is used to pressureize the radiator to check for leaks. I've used that on my 85 S10 that I done a conversion on back a few years ago. I had a funny or weird setup going on when I done that S10 back in 1997 or 98(cant remember). Well, the motor in that S10 was over heating and I could not get the airpocket out. So I rented that tool and let the motor cool all the way down and took the tool and pressureized the radiator and started up the motor and it only ran about three minutes and the heat started coming up, so I took off the heater core line and as soon as the hose broke loose, it sounded like the the motor farted, that is how much air was in the system. I had a temp gauge so that I could watch the temp and as soon as the airpocket came out and I tightened the heater core line back up, the temp started dropping back down. I was releaved cause I worked on it for a week and was running out of options. I could not get the system to pressureize before the system started overheating. The heater core line that I loosened up was the one on the water pump at the top of it. You can see it in the picture in the link below. Good luck :bigthumb:
    Attached Images Attached Images
    ISRA# 18696

    CMA

  10. #40
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    Thanks a ton yenko... I'm gonna try that.

  11. #41
    Registered User Yenko's Avatar
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    bigblockS10
    I forgot to mention that you can drill a few small holes in the thermostat and that will help with airpockets also. Plus it will help in cooling. Another thought just came to me, you can also get a radiator release pressure cap at about any parts house. Instead of using a regular radiator cap, you can use the pressure release cap to also release airpockets, but that is if the airpocket is in the radiator. I always use those pressure release caps cause if you ever need to take the radiator cap off, you can't if you have a regular cap on there(you have to wait untill the pressure goes down or use a rags to shield the coolant from hitting you). Good luck and if you don't mind,let us know how it turns out.

    Pressure release radiator cap
    Last edited by Yenko; 09-15-2002 at 05:59 PM.
    ISRA# 18696

    CMA

  12. #42
    Too loud? HA... projectman's Avatar
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    this is weird........im usually proud of you guys, but shooting for 9's in the 1/8? damn, my stock honda prelude will run 10.3's all day long

    im goin for high 7's through mufflers and on all motor :-)

  13. #43
    I'm no post whore Ericoo1's Avatar
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    I'm not shooting for 9's, it was just a good reasonable number, as far as a guess goes, to start out with. My 9 is a hell of a lot more realistic than that 7 you're expecting out of an all motor prelude. the fastest prelude I've seen at the track ran 8.8 and that was with a turbo w/ 13 lbs. of boost, if I'm not mistaken.
    Last edited by Ericoo1; 09-20-2002 at 11:56 PM.

  14. #44
    Registered User Yenko's Avatar
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    Originally posted by projectman
    this is weird........im usually proud of you guys, but shooting for 9's in the 1/8? damn, my stock honda prelude will run 10.3's all day long im goin for high 7's through mufflers and on all motor :-)
    :gay: :blowup: 7's:bs:
    ISRA# 18696

    CMA

  15. #45
    I'm no post whore Ericoo1's Avatar
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    I was thinking all of that exactly, but seeing as how I'm still relatively new here, i didn't want to step on any toes or piss anyone off.
    Last edited by Ericoo1; 09-21-2002 at 12:47 AM.

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