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Thread: How many of you are running carbs vs fuel injection on your V8s?

  1. #61
    Dark Side Master LayinBodyBlazer's Avatar
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    roflmao

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  2. #62
    Double Bagged s10blaza's Avatar
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    Originally posted by SoLoudItHtz
    What kind of comparison are we looking at average price wise between an LS1 or TBI/Carbed 350?

    Also as far as the swap itself goes, which is the easier motor to work with?
    2 grand got me this

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    http://memimage.cardomain.net/member...23_51_full.jpg

    im sure those 2 grand would barely cover the cost of a complete, low mileage LS1 and maybe the tranny if you strike a good deal but the wow factor would be tenfold. Take it from JSP, a semi-stock looking plain-jane blazer took 1st place mild at carlisle, all because of those sweet red fuel rail covers that say CORVETTE flat across them

  3. #63
    Zombie Killer 6SpeedBlazer's Avatar
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    you could get a tbi motor complete for easily under a grand, where as an ls1 motor could run you anywhere from 3000-7000

    the tbi motor would be a far easier swap...but an ls1 it a bolt on queen

    if memory serves me correctly guys have dipped into hte 10's with just boltons

  4. #64
    Dark Side Master LayinBodyBlazer's Avatar
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    for normal driving and show I think the LS1 may be a bit of overkill...sure I got the money but it may be a waste of motor

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  5. #65
    Zombie Killer 6SpeedBlazer's Avatar
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    ignore my ls1 talk...just got with a carbed 350

    or if you want to be "stock" looking you could always swap in a 350 vortec motor to replace the 4.3 vortec

    never realy looked into it but it might be a fairly simple swap (might be along the same line as 4.3 tbi > 350 tbi)

  6. #66
    Dark Side Master LayinBodyBlazer's Avatar
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    hahaha he said "stock" looking


    with a stock floor BD and 20s/22s u think Im gonna want the engine to look stock? ;) ;) ;)

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  7. #67
    Double Bagged s10blaza's Avatar
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    yeah, get a ZZ4 crate motor and call it a day. Hell with your newfound riches, fly me up there and I'll do it for you!

  8. #68
    Registered User lycan's Avatar
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    Originally posted by SoLoudItHtz
    What do you suggest for someone who hasnt done a V8 swap before? Im willing to learn all I can :D (and I know ill have to!)
    Get a transmission that matches your speedometer (cable or electric). Plan to spend money on custom exhaust routing unless you do it yourself. Make sure you use a transmission that doesn't require your driveshaft to be shortened or lengthened, unless you don't mind having that done. Or you can use axle set back plates...
    If your s-10 doesn't have the kind of throttle cable that just has a squarish end with a hole in it like on the 350 tbi or carbs, just use one from an older style s-10. They can easily be swapped out.
    Depending on what exhaust manifolds or headers you use, you may want to pound your firewall in on the passenger side so theres more room for the exhaust routing. You can have quite a dificult time getting the shift linkage to work it's way around the exhaust manifold and work with the transmission right. On my 700r4, i used the shift bracket from a th350, and the shift linkage from a 94 s-10, probably a 4.3 that had the linkage routed closer to the steering shaft, which fits better than the others. Hell, if you can afford it right away, fuck the linkage rod, go with a B&M shifter. I'd recomend the 700r4 tranny (87 up) because of overdrive, which will help a lot on the highway.
    Depends on how your rear end has been treated over the years, but it can quickly die with the power of a v8. You pretty much can't run meatty tires on the back with a stock rear end and have it last long. Don't cut corners with the install. Not doing something right the first time can cause wear on other components and break them faster as well, leaving you with twice as much to replace.
    Buy some decent motor mounts for a 350, and mount those to 2.8 mounts. Umm... I can't think of anything else right now.
    You might as well build up the transmission while it's out of the vehicle. Have fun getting to those mounting bolts when they're 1/4" away from the firewall. (Not that I rebuilt mine while it was out. I like being harsh on myself... It's sexually arousing.)
    And most importantly: be safe and have fun doing it.
    Last edited by lycan; 11-23-2005 at 01:24 AM.

  9. #69
    Dark Side Master LayinBodyBlazer's Avatar
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    Thanks for the help!

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  10. #70
    Senior Member bigjsp's Avatar
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    price performance ease of onstall- an LT1 is tough to beat - I have an extra complete running car for sale @$1000.

    LS1 - definitely has the look and performance gas milage but you will be cutting the frame to make it fit.


    IF you are ever thinking about reselling the LS1 will hold its value better.

  11. #71
    Dark Side Master LayinBodyBlazer's Avatar
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    no resale on the truck or the engine probably....

    hector and I talked alot last night, I think Im gonna do just a carbed 350 and probably do the 440HP build that was in I think Car Craft or Super Chevy

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  12. #72
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    for normal driving and show I think the LS1 may be a bit of overkill...sure I got the money but it may be a waste of motor
    If you meant that, 440hp is going to be outragous.


    89' S10 blazer 4wd: 355, 650 dp, rpm intake, comp 282 roller cam, modified vortecs, T56 Six speed, 8.8 ls rear, headers, x-pipe, spintech pro street mufflers, and......AC

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  13. #73
    Senior Member bigjsp's Avatar
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    LS1 + 100 HP nitrous kit = 440HP


    plus its still drivable and will get >20 MPG with Air Conditioner for comfort.

  14. #74
    Registered User lycan's Avatar
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    Originally posted by bigjsp
    LS1 + 100 HP nitrous kit = 440HP


    plus its still drivable and will get >20 MPG with Air Conditioner for comfort.
    Oh Big. Your intelligence makes me tingle in places I can't say.

  15. #75
    Registered User toals's Avatar
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    Originally posted by lycan
    Have fun getting to those mounting bolts when they're 1/4" away from the firewall. .
    I holesawed access holes the size of the socket in the floor to get at the bolts and used plastic plugs to cover the holes - just in case I needed to pull the trans later. Still put engine and trans in as 1 unit though.

    I would also suggest a couple of mock ups with a bare block, heads, headers and trans if possible. You'll know what to expect when the real thing goes in. I moved a brake line on the driver's side that I thought heat from the exhaust might cause problems with. That's when I discovered the trans bolt access problem. Plus you can deal with crossmember, driveshaft (if needed), etc, etc, etc.

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