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Thread: lowering the front using bolts on torsion bar

  1. #16
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    Originally posted by s10blazed
    ANother note I'd like to address is that lowering the truck does not change the tension on the torsion bar. (that should actually be the TORSION on the torsion bar since it refers to a rotating force). The only thing that will change that is the weight of the vehicle as it rests on the wishbone. Airnuts is totally correct when saying that the only real thing that makes a 4x4 lower is where the wishbone 'mounts' to the chassis. Whether it 'mounts' a few inches lower with a bolt, or 'mounts' a few degrees off of stock location with the keys.

    Yup, Thats correct. Sometimes I have trouble getting out exactly what I mean, but it seems like you guys all understood what I was trying to say.

  2. #17
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    When you remove the bolt, you're changing the angle at which the force is exerted as well as the amount of force exerted, wheras when you change the key, you're keeping everything in the original geometry (those engineers had a reason for making the decision they did) and only altering the amount of force. In addition, when you loosen/remove the bolt, you don't have as secure of a mount point. A partially-inserted bolt will wiggle around a little, since it's not stretched the way a bolt does when it's fully tightened - and obviously a fully removed bolt provides no stability.

    I'm not sure, but since problems seems to happen sometimes after the bolts are loosened or removed, I'd bet it has to do with changing the angle and basically losing the joint stability. There's a lot of vibration there when you're driving down the road, so maybe the unstable joint and/or the altered force angle causes further problems...

  3. #18
    Registered User Veritas's Avatar
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    The belltech keys relocate the position of the arm on the key so that you can continue to use a bolt and keep opposing force on the torsion bar so that you have a solid connection under positive and negative suspension travel instead of a... diving board ie. perfectly supported downward travel creating a huge rotating force with no opposition, boing... violent springing action springing the key the opposite direction outward into nowhere with no bolt to hold it still and then landing back onto the crossmember... its when it lands over and over again that causes the damage to bushings...


    :bigthumb: IMO...

  4. #19
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    umm, not sure if you know what your talking about, there is so much force on it even with 0 weight on the system the key isnt going to go off the bolt/block.

    If thats not what you were saying sorry, i didnt quite understand what you were saying.


    89' S10 blazer 4wd: 355, 650 dp, rpm intake, comp 282 roller cam, modified vortecs, T56 Six speed, 8.8 ls rear, headers, x-pipe, spintech pro street mufflers, and......AC

    Blazer burnout video - http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sP7iLypoDI4

  5. #20
    Registered User Veritas's Avatar
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    Originally posted by Superbee
    umm, not sure if you know what your talking about, there is so much force on it even with 0 weight on the system the key isnt going to go off the bolt/block.

    If thats not what you were saying sorry, i didnt quite understand what you were saying.
    I dunno, I didnt use a puller to take mine out all I did was jack the truck up off the tires and took the bolt out. Then I could move the bar/key up and down with my hands... I took the little block out with nothing but my fingers... Same thing with putting it back in...

  6. #21
    Double Bagged s10blaza's Avatar
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    you need to clean the pcv valve so the truck levels out

  7. #22
    Registered User Veritas's Avatar
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    Originally posted by s10blaza
    you need to clean the pcv valve so the truck levels out
    :ugh:

  8. #23
    Registered User ednigma's Avatar
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    quote:
    --------------------------------------------------------------------------------
    Originally posted by s10blaza
    you need to clean the pcv valve so the truck levels out
    --------------------------------------------------------------------------------
    what the???????????:huh:
    I don't FAIL...
    I succeed in finding what doesn't work!!!

  9. #24
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    huh?????

    what does the pcv valve have to do with anything?? your talking about the one on the valve cover??? i'm lost man!
    elvis

  10. #25
    Registered User ednigma's Avatar
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    what does the pcv valve have to do with anything?? your talking about the one on the valve cover??? i'm lost man!
    exactly...?????
    I don't FAIL...
    I succeed in finding what doesn't work!!!

  11. #26
    Double Bagged s10blaza's Avatar
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    I'm joking.........

  12. #27
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    LOL, that got people attention in a hurry.


    Veritas, thats weird, mine was hella tight, i wonder if its somthing wrong with your turck??? I mean thats the whole reason for the two jaw. Anyone elses do it?


    89' S10 blazer 4wd: 355, 650 dp, rpm intake, comp 282 roller cam, modified vortecs, T56 Six speed, 8.8 ls rear, headers, x-pipe, spintech pro street mufflers, and......AC

    Blazer burnout video - http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sP7iLypoDI4

  13. #28
    My S-10 fleet is gone... s10blazed's Avatar
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    Originally posted by Superbee
    Veritas, thats weird, mine was hella tight, i wonder if its somthing wrong with your turck??? I mean thats the whole reason for the two jaw. Anyone elses do it?
    Every one I've done the stock keys were tight against the block even with the wheel off the ground. Putting in the Belltech key then allowed me to put the block back in without the puller with a snug fit. I've done 1st gens, Bravadas, and a 2nd gen with all having the same characteristics.

  14. #29
    Registered User Veritas's Avatar
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    you know what, now that i think back on it, i think i just unbolted the crossmember and beat the fuck out of it with a hammer until the bars popped out of the keys then the belltech keys slid right in... with that reasoning idk wtf the deal is shouldnt be a problem at all...

  15. #30
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    Here is what I did:



    Prolly didn't need to reinforce the bottom of the x-member but it can't hurt..

    BTW I had to use a 2 jar puller to remove and reinstall the little block the adjustor bolt threads into.. There was a good bit of tension there even with the front end on stands and the wheels hanging..


    -Matt

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