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Thread: lowering the front using bolts on torsion bar

  1. #31
    Registered User ednigma's Avatar
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    how much of a drop did you get with that Matt?
    I don't FAIL...
    I succeed in finding what doesn't work!!!

  2. #32
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    Originally posted by ednigma
    how much of a drop did you get with that Matt?

    With the bolts adjusted like they are in that pic I am 2" lower than I was with the bolts completely out on an unmodified x-member..

  3. #33
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    bars

    i dont care what anybody says about torsion bars and the way they someone says belltech keys are indext different so when you crank the bolts up the bars are back to the same way as stock but now magicly your truck is dropped three inches.
    im not a technical person i just do it and i do alot of sh!t nobody would do or think of doing and it always works out i just think about how it works.
    and for this situation it is very easy to understand left is loose right is tight the same thing gos for t bars if they twist one way it gos higher if it twist the other way it gos lower very simple you can even watch this if you look at the bars and mess with the bolts all this crap about it will get screwed up is bs i got my bolts out and it rides fine and it dropped it almost 3 inchs i am gonna get the key and take the bolts out to get a 5inch drop and the only bad thing that might happen is i might rip a cv boot.
    all you haters that disagree can post all about it i dont care theres already some one on here that did it and has been driving it for a year with no probs at all

  4. #34
    Registered User Veritas's Avatar
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    Re: bars

    Originally posted by slammin97s10
    i dont care what anybody says about torsion bars and the way they someone says belltech keys are indext different so when you crank the bolts up the bars are back to the same way as stock but now magicly your truck is dropped three inches.
    im not a technical person i just do it and i do alot of sh!t nobody would do or think of doing and it always works out i just think about how it works.
    and for this situation it is very easy to understand left is loose right is tight the same thing gos for t bars if they twist one way it gos higher if it twist the other way it gos lower very simple you can even watch this if you look at the bars and mess with the bolts all this crap about it will get screwed up is bs i got my bolts out and it rides fine and it dropped it almost 3 inchs i am gonna get the key and take the bolts out to get a 5inch drop and the only bad thing that might happen is i might rip a cv boot.
    all you haters that disagree can post all about it i dont care theres already some one on here that did it and has been driving it for a year with no probs at all
    You forgot "what now bitches?" and "word, im out for skizzy..." no need to be defensive on the first post... i have belltechs with the bolts out and its not a 5 inch drop... probably more like 3 1/2 -4 i can still stick my fist vertically into the gap between the tire and fender on a 17/45/245

  5. #35
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    i dont mean to be defenssive but i hate when people miss lead other people about un true things like the guy who broke two control arms and ball joints and idler arms, this was not because of two bolts out you would have to jump a blazer over the grand canyon to brake the control arms how real does that seem braking c-arms i dont know who buy into that one.
    im calm now just needed to vent and by the way someone buy my rims.

  6. #36
    Death to the 2.8 groceriesgofast's Avatar
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    First i wasnt going to say anything but now i'm itchin for it. I have had my bolts OUT for about 8 months. Not a bolt or control arm or idler or ball joint has gone out on me ONCE! no problems after the alignment since it ate up tires like mad. and i drive the livin crap out of my rigs. if you lower it you have changed where the torsion bars sit regardless. if you use the keys it just puts you in a safer perimerter so you wont damage as much as say flipping the keys. sure it does have the ability to flop up and down in over the keys because there is no resistance. a risk you take but there are ways to correct it. save a few bucks and not get the quality of that because no one has figured a way to keep it from leting the key push back up when the front end is lifted for whatever reason. what about blocking the key from going back up with a bolt or a weld-up job of some sort.
    '84 2wd 2d 2.8 2.5"/3"
    '91 4WD 5 speed V8 4 DOOR *Stripped*

  7. #37
    Registered User Veritas's Avatar
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    Originally posted by groceriesgofast
    First i wasnt going to say anything but now i'm itchin for it. I have had my bolts OUT for about 8 months. Not a bolt or control arm or idler or ball joint has gone out on me ONCE! no problems after the alignment since it ate up tires like mad. and i drive the livin crap out of my rigs. if you lower it you have changed where the torsion bars sit regardless. if you use the keys it just puts you in a safer perimerter so you wont damage as much as say flipping the keys. sure it does have the ability to flop up and down in over the keys because there is no resistance. a risk you take but there are ways to correct it. save a few bucks and not get the quality of that because no one has figured a way to keep it from leting the key push back up when the front end is lifted for whatever reason. what about blocking the key from going back up with a bolt or a weld-up job of some sort.

    please for your own good and safety do not attempt this...

  8. #38
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    hes not the only i just did it 3 days ago and i just slammed the back theres another kid that has it done too and hes been driving it for a year.mine actually rides better with the bolts all the way loose. truck it thats what us mini truckers are for we will just fix it if it brakes.

  9. #39
    Doesnt look like this supernova's Avatar
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    your the kind of people that get all the other people who own mini trucks and can read and write constantly fucked with by the police. Those fucking bolts are there for a reason. I guess if you owned a 2wd it would be cool to pull your coil springs and just ride around with the control arm on the frame. Or stacking blocks is ok too huh. Grow up or die, but please dont take anyone else with you b/c your too cheap to get your truck correctly lowered

  10. #40
    Death to the 2.8 groceriesgofast's Avatar
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    i dont see anything unsafe about it. but if i am wrong may i stand corrected. i am far from a perfect man and i dont always have the right solutions but i guess what works for me may not work for other people. thats fine, because if i do something wrong on my truck i will learn from it. sometimes it takes an outsiders look so please tell me what is wrong so i may learn. coming undone on people isnt any more help. and i REALLY doubt i am gonna die at under 35 miles an hour ( 95% of my driving). Never got a SINGLE GLANCE from the police as long as you keep your vehicle higher than the lowest part of the rim then its legal. i tossed an idea out there and i never said it was a great idea.
    '84 2wd 2d 2.8 2.5"/3"
    '91 4WD 5 speed V8 4 DOOR *Stripped*

  11. #41
    Doesnt look like this supernova's Avatar
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    backing off your torsion bars all the way is a bad idea in general. BUt im also pretty much against most tinkering with of 4wd s10s. Theres just no safe/sensable way to get really low like most want. Removing the screw of the key is pretty much the same as heating a spring ona 2wd truck. It takes tension out of the steel and makes it bounce/sway more and you loose the strenth in the bar to support the front end of your truck, therefor the weight of it makes the truck lower. Ive dropped nissians before by backing the torsion bars off, but it was like a 2.5 inch drop in the front. Im not saying it cant be done nor will instantly kill you. BUt its all the same as cut coils and heated springs. its not safe. But i build my stuff to last, not to "be a mini trucker and fuck up stuff like we are suppose to". i dont plan on buying another vehicle for years unless its as a work truck. My nova made it 30 years and so will my blazer. So i might just look at things differently. But if i owned a 4wd it would either get a set of belltech keys, or be left at stock height

  12. #42
    Death to the 2.8 groceriesgofast's Avatar
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    Originally posted by supernova
    backing off your torsion bars all the way is a bad idea in general. BUt im also pretty much against most tinkering with of 4wd s10s. Theres just no safe/sensable way to get really low like most want. Removing the screw of the key is pretty much the same as heating a spring ona 2wd truck. It takes tension out of the steel and makes it bounce/sway more and you loose the strenth in the bar to support the front end of your truck, therefor the weight of it makes the truck lower. Ive dropped nissians before by backing the torsion bars off, but it was like a 2.5 inch drop in the front. Im not saying it cant be done nor will instantly kill you. BUt its all the same as cut coils and heated springs. its not safe. But i build my stuff to last, not to "be a mini trucker and fuck up stuff like we are suppose to". i dont plan on buying another vehicle for years unless its as a work truck. My nova made it 30 years and so will my blazer. So i might just look at things differently. But if i owned a 4wd it would either get a set of belltech keys, or be left at stock height
    cool, that was much more helpful than the last post. i have lowered mine that (lettin the bolts out) way. i like to get low and i am about as low as i can get now without becoming a risk on the road. Getting lower would be cool and i am really open for options as to do it. if the absolute way to do it is to get the keys then i guess thats what I gotta do. I just prefer to find alternatives to payin for someone elses ideas and i am junky for my truck with a limited budget.
    '84 2wd 2d 2.8 2.5"/3"
    '91 4WD 5 speed V8 4 DOOR *Stripped*

  13. #43
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    [QUOTE]Originally posted by supernova
    your the kind of people that get all the other people who own mini trucks and can read and write constantly fucked with by the police. Those fucking bolts are there for a reason. I guess if you owned a 2wd it would be cool to pull your coil springs and just ride around with the control arm on the frame. Or stacking blocks is ok too huh. Grow up or die, but please dont take anyone else with you b/c your too cheap to get your truck correctly lowered

    Originally posted by supernova
    backing off your torsion bars all the way is a bad idea in general. BUt im also pretty much against most tinkering with of 4wd s10s. Theres just no safe/sensable way to get really low like most want. Removing the screw of the key is pretty much the same as heating a spring ona 2wd truck. It takes tension out of the steel and makes it bounce/sway more and you loose the strenth in the bar to support the front end of your truck, therefor the weight of it makes the truck lower. Ive dropped nissians before by backing the torsion bars off, but it was like a 2.5 inch drop in the front. Im not saying it cant be done nor will instantly kill you. BUt its all the same as cut coils and heated springs. its not safe. But i build my stuff to last, not to "be a mini trucker and fuck up stuff like we are suppose to". i dont plan on buying another vehicle for years unless its as a work truck. My nova made it 30 years and so will my blazer. So i might just look at things differently. But if i owned a 4wd it would either get a set of belltech keys, or be left at stock height


    I couldn't disagree more... The belltech keys are a complete and absolute waste of money and do nothing to increase the safety of the situation. The torsion on your bars has nothing to do with how the bolts are adjusted or if they are even there or not.. It has to do with one thing and one thing only.. How heavy the front of your truck is.. There is no way that you can logically relate removing the bolts to heating springs on a 2wd.. It just doesn't make sense. Now I do agree that taking a 4x4 too low is dangerous.. But only because of the unhealthy angels that the balljoints and cv joints are forced to operate at.. The failures that people have experienced are probably a result of cheap and/or worn out parts and the fact that they are just taking things lower than they should...


    -Matt

  14. #44
    Death to the 2.8 groceriesgofast's Avatar
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    Just curious, but i am wondering what kind of abuse they have subjected the failing parts to. I have been rolling around on some of the worst streets in the northwest and i didnt even tear a cv boot. i drove it 25k in the last 8 months and the only thing diff is the comf ride and better milage. If it was up as high as it was i guarentee that the few random mistakes others drivers have made would have caused me to roll it over. im glad i sit this low. ball joints are all in great shape too. Im not saying that the keys are useless, but i think that the BL members that have experienced poor results due to failing parts had the problem because the part was already up for replacement.

    I agree that heating a spring is nowhere as similar to loosing the bolt because i have taken the keys out and they have as much force as they did when they were up. heating a spring or cutting it reduces the density of the metal. you ruin the spring, its not accurate, and it is very dangerous. i have never had a torsion bar pop out and cut my tire in half and toss me sideways on the freeway. a cut spring has done that to me though.

    Matt, i see what you are saying and it does make sense. if you put weight on the front end, then yes, the torsion goes up. but by lowering it you are in no way reducing the amount of force exerted by the torsion bar. If you flip the keys, they yes, you are reducing that force. Now, if that bolt is there then it is truly ment for adjustment and it only adjusts so far for a reason. i dont see any harm in adjusting it as low as it can go. I was fiddling with the key and it still (even in the air) had a lot of force on the block so it isnt flopping around at all because now i cant get the key to go back up with out forcing it back in. there is the same amount of resistance as if it where stock. if tightening that bolt put more force on the bar then the front wouldnt lift up or drop but make the front softer or harder depending on if you tightened it or loosened it.
    Last edited by groceriesgofast; 04-21-2006 at 12:42 PM.
    '84 2wd 2d 2.8 2.5"/3"
    '91 4WD 5 speed V8 4 DOOR *Stripped*

  15. #45
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    supernova must have know idea what the truck he is talking about,you are out of your mind first off come over my way and you can drive my 3inch lowered bravada and tell me how much crappy it ride from stock, it dosent ride any different except the fact the stock shocks suck but you know what ill buy drop shocks ohhhh no it will ride factory again,untill you actually do this to a blazer and drive it dont open your mouth,second my bolts are still in jsut all the way down,third im gonna put the keys in im just limited with my time with working so many hours,fourth you wanna talk about unsafe why dont you call gm and ask them why these truckin blazers had so many roll overs you ever see the sticker on the visor in one? it say you are at risk more with rollovers oh yeah guess what i just reduced my risk with a whole wapping 3 inches whos safer now bia otch? dont say nothing nobody want to here it.
    the dumbout

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