Page 3 of 5 FirstFirst 12345 LastLast
Results 31 to 45 of 67

Thread: Look to lower front

  1. #31
    Registered User
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Posts
    1
    lol i'm still confused...this is for my friend's 86' Jimmy, 4x4..


    he got the back lowered with blocks...

    how exactly does the front lower, your pics don't look like his front so i'm lost...

    this is probably a pain in the ass but...can someone PLEASE..

    explain how to lower the front and what i need parts wise to lower it....cuz you said drill a hole, there's nothing to remove to make it drop down to the new bolts to make it fall down to them??

    i'd really appreciate it...:bigthumb:
    Last edited by iCivic; 04-16-2006 at 10:28 PM.

  2. #32
    chevys **** mercedes br0v4d4's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Location
    shelby, mi
    Posts
    462
    just take the adjustment bolts out, youll get anywhere from 2 1/2" to 3" drop that way
    ________
    LIVE SEX WEBSHOWS
    Last edited by br0v4d4; 09-04-2011 at 06:32 PM.

  3. #33
    Registered User jammer12001's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Location
    Aiken, SC
    Posts
    234
    Originally posted by Superbee
    dont worry bro, that grade 8 bolt is plenty strong.
    Get your facts straight before u you kill someone plz... a grade 8 is 180K psi to break it a grade 5 is 120-130K i believe, but it will bend at that point... A grade 5 is actualy stronger then a grade 8... a grade 5 will bend and not break cuz it isnt case hardend... grade 8 is hardend and it will just snap and not bend... The PSI is about when there is a FAULT in the bolt... you could go with a grade 9... pick it up at your local fastenal store, or if you live around augusta GA or aiken SC come see me at fastenal ;) (cheap advertising plug) If you can find someone that sells a grade 12 I promise you it wont break haha... Be sure to ask about a "fasteners gone wild" demonstration at fastenal, you'll be sure to get a laugh lol

  4. #34
    Banned
    Join Date
    Nov 2002
    Location
    Lyndon, Kansas
    Posts
    7,511
    grade 8's are far superior than grade 5, the 5 is going to fail before the grade 8 will even flex or stretch.

    A grade 8 could probably hold the whole damn truck up.

    either an 8 or 5 will be fine for the torsion bar arm.


    89' S10 blazer 4wd: 355, 650 dp, rpm intake, comp 282 roller cam, modified vortecs, T56 Six speed, 8.8 ls rear, headers, x-pipe, spintech pro street mufflers, and......AC

    Blazer burnout video - http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sP7iLypoDI4

  5. #35
    Registered User
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Location
    Oregon
    Posts
    54
    Those ratings are tensil strength ratings, ie-pulling or clamping force.
    The bolts used to lower an s-10 this way are in a state of modified double shear.
    If you're worried, take a look at the threaded plates that the original bolts threaded into. The 1/2" bolt is sufficient (That is just my opinion, although I would never lower a truck that way).
    Keep in mind for future hardware selections- A bolt with a higher tensil strength may have a lower shear streangth. Material properties vary by alloy, temper, and manufacturing techniques

  6. #36
    Registered User jammer12001's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Location
    Aiken, SC
    Posts
    234
    Originally posted by Fletcher262
    Those ratings are tensil strength ratings, ie-pulling or clamping force.
    The bolts used to lower an s-10 this way are in a state of modified double shear.
    If you're worried, take a look at the threaded plates that the original bolts threaded into. The 1/2" bolt is sufficient (That is just my opinion, although I would never lower a truck that way).
    Keep in mind for future hardware selections- A bolt with a higher tensil strength may have a lower shear streangth. Material properties vary by alloy, temper, and manufacturing techniques
    :bigthumb: way to make it technical for me lol... grade 8 ABSOLUTLY will not bend... it may flex very little but it will break before it bends... there for the break would be the defect in the bolt with 180K tensil strength ( thats y u use a grade 8 instead of 5 on like brush mowers because if u hit a stump with a grade 8 the bolt will break and wont hurt your drive parts... where as... if u used a grade 5 and hit that same stump... the bolt wouldnt break it would just bend and cause damage to the drive system) any hardend bolt is that way because it has no flex... so my point being is... it takes more force to break a grade 5 in half then a grade 8, however a grade 5 will bend before a grade 8 breaks... but a grade 8 will break before a grade 5 will break... I'll have to check the tensil strength on a grade 12 tomorrow ;)
    Last edited by jammer12001; 04-18-2006 at 08:40 PM.

  7. #37
    sea biscuit Flim-jIM's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    Kitchener, Ontario
    Posts
    442
    this has been a concern to me ever since i did it, i have a 1/2 grade 8 bolt in my crossmembers and was always worried about it breaking, also when i lowered it i found it to be uneven and a little to low, so i machined several diameter sleeves form 4140 tool steel and hardened them to go in between the crossmember and slid the bolts rights through them to go up a bit and to level it off, but if there are any doubts on this i'll go and buy some grade 12 bolts right now, and also does anybody know how much force those torsion bars can actually give off?
    ______________________________

    93 Blazer 4x4 - 5.5/5, shaved For Sale
    95 S10 2wd - laying 20's with TB front end
    03 Blazer ZR2- stock and daily'd

  8. #38
    Banned
    Join Date
    Nov 2002
    Location
    Lyndon, Kansas
    Posts
    7,511
    dont worry about it. Its not enough tension to break that bolt.


    89' S10 blazer 4wd: 355, 650 dp, rpm intake, comp 282 roller cam, modified vortecs, T56 Six speed, 8.8 ls rear, headers, x-pipe, spintech pro street mufflers, and......AC

    Blazer burnout video - http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sP7iLypoDI4

  9. #39
    SyTy Speed Shop HotRodV6's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    Humble Tx 77396
    Posts
    186
    OK, so just to make sure i understand this mod correctly.

    You basically drill a new hole in the torsion bar crossmember under the factory adjustment point, and put a thru bolt in.

    Then you remove the factory adjustment screw completely, and the torsion bar key will be resting on the threaded plate for around a 3in drop, then remove the threaded plate and the torsion bar key will be resting on the shank of the thru bolt and this will give you up to a 6in drop, but how do you raise it back up if you only want say a 4 or 5 in drop??

    Im going to lower my Bravada, and bought the 3in drop leafs for the back, and the belltech drop kit that has the keys and blocks, and i was wanting to do around a 4/6 drop, and will run 17"s or 18's.

    Thanks for the clarification.

    Also, how is the ride quality with this mod? Real bouncy or stiff, close to stock?

    I also have a set of belltech twin tube nitro drops for the front and rear, the front say they are good for up to a 3 in drop and the rear is for a 3-5 in drop.
    Mike
    1992 GMC Sonoma GT #492
    Full Resto w/383 E85 LM7/T56
    License Plate= CRN FED
    Working on it slowly but surely.

    1992 GMC Typhoon #1104


    2003 Silverado Ext Cab
    Daily driver

    Member of H.A.S.T.E.
    www.h-a-s-t-e.com

  10. #40
    sea biscuit Flim-jIM's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    Kitchener, Ontario
    Posts
    442
    what i did was i machined several different diameter sleeves slid through the bolt in between the crossmember to either adjust my height, or level my truck off, i found my drivers side was alot further down than my passenger side

    im running 3 in drop shocks on my 5.5 in drop and seems to work pretty good

    ride quality= shit

    my truck has next to near no tension in the front, i can push the front end of my truck down with my finger...

    if i were you, i'd buy the torsion keys from belltech and just loosen the adjustment screws, you should be able to get around 5 inches
    ______________________________

    93 Blazer 4x4 - 5.5/5, shaved For Sale
    95 S10 2wd - laying 20's with TB front end
    03 Blazer ZR2- stock and daily'd

  11. #41
    Vamos Mantequilla!!! ProfessorKaos's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    Fond du Lac, WI
    Posts
    1,043
    I did the tortion bar trick and this is what i came up with..in the back i used a 3"block and pulled the 2nd biggest leaf...



    she's rusty but my winter daily

    '93 bodied Std. Cab....Classick
    Midwestminis.net <- Go There!


  12. #42
    Banned
    Join Date
    Nov 2002
    Location
    Lyndon, Kansas
    Posts
    7,511
    OK, if you take the adjuster bolts out, it will give you about 1 inch or so lower than factory. If you drill the hole where i did, its about 4 inches, i then wanted it a little lower and leveled out, so i took a dremel and walared (sp) the hole out a little more and i got it an even 5in.

    As for ride quality.. it rides better than my buddies stock s10 so, i think its pretty good. I have belltechs up front and sensetrac in back.

    For a 5in drop you really cant ask for a better ride, unles you have airbags or somthing.


    And Flim-jIM, your truck has the exact same amount of tension on the t-bars no matter how low it is, check the front bumpstops or mounts or the shocks for why yours is riding bad.


    89' S10 blazer 4wd: 355, 650 dp, rpm intake, comp 282 roller cam, modified vortecs, T56 Six speed, 8.8 ls rear, headers, x-pipe, spintech pro street mufflers, and......AC

    Blazer burnout video - http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sP7iLypoDI4

  13. #43
    Registered User
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Location
    Acworth, Ga
    Posts
    151
    So let me get this right, I read this whole thing and still alil confused. So I would do the drilling on the bar to get a 3" drop in frount, and in the back I would have to get some blocks and leafs? Is that correct? If not please correct me. I want to be able to get about a 3" drop all around or what ever it takes to make it even.

  14. #44
    Banned
    Join Date
    Nov 2002
    Location
    Lyndon, Kansas
    Posts
    7,511
    yeah you are correct. To start, you can just remove the adjuster bolts completly, i really doubt you will get a 3 inch drop out of that but you never know.

    And for the rear, for a 3 inch drop, you have 3 options, remove second biggest leaf = free, 3 inch blocks = 20 bux, 3in belltech leafs = 100?

    out of the 3 id say the blocks were the worst, just because they have that much more leverage for axle wrap when you mash it.

    But between belltechs and removing the leaf, they are the save, both weak, so you may want to get some stiffer shocks like i mentioned.


    89' S10 blazer 4wd: 355, 650 dp, rpm intake, comp 282 roller cam, modified vortecs, T56 Six speed, 8.8 ls rear, headers, x-pipe, spintech pro street mufflers, and......AC

    Blazer burnout video - http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sP7iLypoDI4

  15. #45
    LQ4/LS1 Turner's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Location
    Kelowna, B.C.
    Posts
    562
    So you got that much of a drop using the original keys because mine are rusted 2 shit and if i dont have to change them i dont want 2:)

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •