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Thread: Teach me about primer and paint!

  1. #46
    Registered User 94blz327's Avatar
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    Looks like a good plan, but I am not sure about the blue covering the white either. You could do the white band last and that should alleviate any problems that the blue over the top may cause.

  2. #47
    Registered User toals's Avatar
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    I just got the May 2006 Hot Rod in the mail today. It has the first of a 10 part series of articles on do it yourself body and paint.

    It'll take 10 months to get and read all the articles, so I guess it depends on how much patience you have.

    They did offer one suggestion. Practice on body parts from the junk yard, if you can get them cheap enough. Might be an option for determining the order in applying the different layers you want to do.

  3. #48
    paint, paint, paint mixbreedblaze's Avatar
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    i agree with toals....go get a panel, fender, whatever and try a few different masking techniques, and see what happens. This way YOU know for sure what will go where and how and so that you arent relying on everyone elses opinions.(no offense to anyone)

    but I do agree with the process stated about starting from top to bottom.....
    1. tape off all windows, etc....
    2. using 1/4" fineline tape, lay out your design....(which
    would be your whit and silver) let all the tape overlap and
    what not....make sure all tape is firmly pressed down, especially where it overlaps, it should form a tight diamond shape... refer to pic
    3. take an exacto blade, and lightly cut the over laps to nice
    points, barely cut though, dont scratch into the basecoat,
    and keep a fresh blade in there, change it out after you do
    one side. Sure it seems like a waste of blades, but believe
    me it is well worth not having to push just that lil bit extra
    and scratching the paint..
    4. Now I would get ready to spray the blue, take and mask off (cover) the areas that are gonna be silver, white and black.
    5. Prep the area to be sprayed blue, spray, let dry.
    6. ( this may start gettin tricky) now un mask the white. Pull the fine line tape that draws the top line of the white design, between the blue and white, but leave the bottom.
    7. Now you would back mask the blue. Cover all the blue and butt the tape up to the edge of the blue. You can either do this by running a piece of fineline tape or laying a clear piece of masking material, overlapping the two colors and cut with an exacto blade. Again being careful not to scratch into the base....
    8. follow through with prep and paint...now would be the time to airbrush your drop shadows, if you want the blue to appear to be over the white.......

    just repeat this process all the way down. Pick a kolor/design to spray, mask/cover all the others and go on......
    just be sure not to leave the fineline between designs, or else you will get a nice primer pinstripe, so to say..
    as for the pinstriping I would either say do it yourself with a brush and all....or go pay a fella to do it. But you can tape it off and still use a striping brush....

    here are a few pics of a panel im working on at the moment. They only cover the first few steps, but they give you an idea.


    Last edited by mixbreedblaze; 03-22-2006 at 04:11 AM.
    4-door, shaved handles, shaved antenna, lowered, welded and shaved body seams, rollpan with plate off to left side, two tone tweed, custom paint and airbrush, Mazzi Sphinx 2 17"s.....

    Your idea of a thrill ride: Six Flags. My idea of a thrill ride: teeter-tottering on a speed bump

  4. #49
    paint, paint, paint mixbreedblaze's Avatar
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    also........

    dont get to jumpy and ahead of yourself to get this paintjob done. I highly recommend doing some test panels, they dont half to be fullsize, but something that will help you familiarize yourself more with the taping process and the steps to go through. Dont just jump in and paint, because you think you can do it. Make sure you KNOW it.
    If you dont think you are ready for it, change the design, or put it off and do more research. Like already stated before there are tons of books, how-to's, and those internet renting sites also have dvd's that you can get.
    Just some advice. I dunno how many test panels I did to get used to all the masking, and remasking, and back masking. But I did finally learn where the mistakes happened, how to fix em, etc...............
    Its not a fast process and takes miles of tape.....lol ...miles...

    have fun and I hope I kinda cleared alittle up with my techniques..........
    4-door, shaved handles, shaved antenna, lowered, welded and shaved body seams, rollpan with plate off to left side, two tone tweed, custom paint and airbrush, Mazzi Sphinx 2 17"s.....

    Your idea of a thrill ride: Six Flags. My idea of a thrill ride: teeter-tottering on a speed bump

  5. #50
    My S-10 fleet is gone... s10blazed's Avatar
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    I don't know if it's been stated directly or not but if this is your first paint job, maybe you s hould stick with something a little simpler? Painting a car is a lot more complicated than it seems. I had read so many threads and how-tos and asked body people advice before I did mine I thought my head would explode. Every day there was still something that made me go hmmmm, what the hell do I do now? I only did a simple 2 tone, but being my first paint job it was more challenging than I had planned. Take everyone's advice to heart and take your time with it. No one is a pro the first time. Good luck.

  6. #51
    . SlimJimmy's Avatar
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    Simple = :gay:

    I think I should be able to handle it. Its really not that complex of a graphic.

  7. #52
    paint, paint, paint mixbreedblaze's Avatar
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    a simple design, say a two tone with a straight break, can often give of that slassy and stylish feel..when kolors are used right...

    but if you mean simple as far as taping, then it depends on who yer talkin to, I think the paint on my blazer was simple...lol

    oh fuck it..........maybe i should go back to bed, damn brain aint kicked in yet.......
    4-door, shaved handles, shaved antenna, lowered, welded and shaved body seams, rollpan with plate off to left side, two tone tweed, custom paint and airbrush, Mazzi Sphinx 2 17"s.....

    Your idea of a thrill ride: Six Flags. My idea of a thrill ride: teeter-tottering on a speed bump

  8. #53
    . SlimJimmy's Avatar
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    How critical is it that I etch primer the bare metal spots? Is it fine if I just spray high build on them with the rest of it?

  9. #54
    Nubcake Creager's Avatar
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    well if you are working on bare metal etching is the most effective way to seal your metal from rust and erosion. but etching is a horrible top coat and paint doesnt stick to it, so you have your filler or regular primer to lay on top of that. i always etch then prime, as a force of habit from workin on older vehicles. i have seen metal rust through regular primer.
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  10. #55
    . SlimJimmy's Avatar
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    Painted my first fender today for a car I was doing body work on for my dad. Looks Awesome! I used Dupont chroma series. There is a couple runs in the clear but those should buff/polish out when i polish it in a few days or so. Overall very successful for my first time ever, no orange peel!

  11. #56
    Uber pwnage Blazerfreak20's Avatar
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    can you shoot single stage with flake in it?
    89 2 door shaved door handles, emblems, moldings, antenna, wiper cowl,god fathers body kit (molded in the rear), cowl hood, fully bagged front,back,side to side with 1/2" everything.

  12. #57
    Registered User 94blz327's Avatar
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    Yes, you can get single stage paints with the metallic added. You can even add metallic particles to any color paint if you wish. Just make sure you agitate the paint very well before spraying, and periodically as you are spraying. When shooting metallics you really need to pay attention to your spray pattern and direction that you spray from for a nice even finish. Definately do some practice work before you shoot the vehicle.

  13. #58
    Registered User kwickez's Avatar
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    im getting my blazer done with dupont but im also getting my urthane bumper done. my question is (JUST SO I CAN MAKE SURE ITS DONE RIGHT) what products do i need like the primer do i use a different primer for the bumper or do i just add flex additive?im going with 2 stage

  14. #59
    Registered User BLAZINat40's Avatar
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    If you do a metalflake paint you will have to clear. Also there are many types of flake as far as size goes Mica 1, mica 2, mica 3 and so on which goes up to the bigger flake. To they are made of different types of material to. The lighter tends to float more than the metalflake in which you have to use more clear on the top coat. Also if you do a metalflake and do it right plan to wet sand and reclear if you want the deeper shine and also plan to wet sand that coat and finish with a buffing for it to look as wet as it should. One thing in this thread that everyone has failed to point out, put a couple of the bubble in line filters at the compressor and at the paint gun to trap and water and oil that comes from the compressor. Nothing can kill a paint job quick than water or oil in the air line that will spit out at times when you are painting. Even use them when priming because the contamination will show up in time down the road. Always remember if you really want a nice paint job it will only be as good as the time you put into the prep and body work.
    Dale

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