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Thread: sy/ty key question

  1. #16
    Warned Member Lucky Dime's Avatar
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    what for the 18's or the 17's or both?

  2. #17
    My S-10 fleet is gone... s10blazed's Avatar
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    18s. S/T Lover has 17s on there with a semi-meaty tire. If you went to 18s, you'd have to get rubber bands.

  3. #18
    Warned Member Lucky Dime's Avatar
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    oh cuz on the tire size u said he had 235/75/15 so i guess that was supposed to be 235/75/17? those did look kinda big for 15's...yea im lookin to get some 17" or 18" Intro Pentia's

  4. #19
    My S-10 fleet is gone... s10blazed's Avatar
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    no, his stock size was 235/75/15. He went to a 235/65/17 and that kept the tire diameter the same. He now has a 225/55/17.

  5. #20
    Warned Member Lucky Dime's Avatar
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    oh ok

  6. #21
    Warned Member Lucky Dime's Avatar
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    so it would have to be like a 235/45/18 to keep it the same?

  7. #22
    My S-10 fleet is gone... s10blazed's Avatar
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    225/45/18 would be better

  8. #23
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    ok here's a question for s-10blazed or anyone who can answer. What all do i have to do to get that look in the picture?That is bad ass. And thanks everyone for all the answers to the first question.would getting the belltech kit be good.i hear it comes with leaf springs. wouldn't those be better than blocks. thnks..
    1986 two wheel drive s-10 blazer

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  9. #24
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    ALSO DO YOU KNOW IF HE HAD ANY PROBLEMS LIKE TRANSFER CASE OR TRANSMISSION PROBLEMS ON THE BRAVADA WITH IT LOWERED LIKE THAT?
    1986 two wheel drive s-10 blazer

    ....Who needs demons when there.....
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  10. #25
    '93 Typhoon / 97 Isuzu C-Town216's Avatar
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    You won't cause any mechanical problems with the BellTeck keys. That's why they only go down 4". Other wise you'd have to move in the lower ball joints and move out the upper ball joints to get it back into allignment cuz the camber can't go out past a 4" drop. I had my stock keys flipped and it tore up my drive axels at a 6.5" drop cuz they bind up at full turn. I'm just less than 6" now by drilling though the keys and hanging them under the bars by the bolts with a washer and it's fine now. But I have longer upper A arms off a full size Chevy 4X4 to fix the negative camber.
    "All I need iz 1 mic"

  11. #26
    Let's Go Pens! S/T Lover's Avatar
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    FUSIONBLAZE - What you need to do to achieve the look of my truck is to replace the torsion bar keys and crank the bolts to the desired level of drop you want, and then install either 3" blocks or 3" leafs to get the rear end lower.. Leafs give a better ride and give more opporunity for more lowering in the future, but are quite a bit more expensive. Also, as of right now I have had no transmission or transfer case problems. I don't see anything occuring the with the transfer case because of the lowering because I dont have two different sized tires on the front and back, I dont see how the lowering would do anything to the transfer case. As for the transmission, I talked to a friend of mine who works in a tranny shop and he said that It's not lowered enough to change the angle of the driveshaft, therefore there shouldn't be any added stress to the transmission because of the lowering

    C-Town - Why the hell are you using those upper arms off of a full size??? You are going through all that trouble to get the camber correct, and all those arms are going to do is push the tires back to where they ARENT tilting in enough to tuck. I think, maybe, instead of doing all that custom work for tires that arent going to tuck, why dont you just bag it and when your driving it air it up, and when its parked or at a show air it out??? Seems to me like that would be a hell of alot easier proposition than what you are trying to do. I've never quite understood anything as to what you are trying to do with those upper arms off of a full size.
    Last edited by S/T Lover; 08-15-2002 at 11:51 AM.
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  12. #27
    Warned Member Lucky Dime's Avatar
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    s10blazed 225/45/18 would be better
    yea i agree...haha that is a rubber band huh?

  13. #28
    My S-10 fleet is gone... s10blazed's Avatar
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    Originally posted by Blazin89

    yea i agree...haha that is a rubber band huh?
    it wont be TOO bad. Definitly will ride noticably rougher.. but if you're lowering it anyways you'll never be able to tell. It rill ride rougher no matter what.

  14. #29
    '93 Typhoon / 97 Isuzu C-Town216's Avatar
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    Originally posted by S/T Lover
    C-Town - Why the hell are you using those upper arms off of a full size??? You are going through all that trouble to get the camber correct, and all those arms are going to do is push the tires back to where they ARENT tilting in enough to tuck. I think, maybe, instead of doing all that custom work for tires that arent going to tuck, why dont you just bag it and when your driving it air it up, and when its parked or at a show air it out??? Seems to me like that would be a hell of alot easier proposition than what you are trying to do. I've never quite understood anything as to what you are trying to do with those upper arms off of a full size.
    With an almost 6" drop on the front, moving the lower ball joints in to corect camber binds up the drive axle. So the only other solution is to move the top out. This worked out well because now I have a big open area because of the tubular design to fit coil-overs. I gues I could get AirJacker bag/shock combo's in there to, but they are $350.00 each and will have to wait till I C-notch and bag the rear first. My rims do tuck, under the cladding! I took out the inner fender wells and added another couple inches to the bottoms of them, then put them back in. Now they come up to the hood. I had to move the battery to the rear and get a smaller wiper fluid bottle. No biggy! The Typhoon cladding obviously woudn't fit with the wheel wells cut 4 inches higher up in the body (about where the body line used to be), so I got a set of flares off either a Toyota 4Runner or one of those Infinity SUV's, I'm not sure what it was cause the front end was missing. I do plan on bagging it, but when I do, it will lay frame on a 27.6" tall 18X9.5" front and 18X10.5" rear wheel combo. And be AWD by then, as soon as I rebuild this Escallade tranfer case I picked up into the smaller Bravado housing. The Cadi gears can take more HP, wich I plan on getting when I put twin turbos on a backwards mounted LT1 air plenium and pull the old 4.3. And like I've said before in other posts, this $300.00 '89 4X4 Jimmy is just a test platform for what I really want. Once I work out all the bugs on the drive train and suspension, I plan on putting all the goodies on a '99+ S-10 Quad Cab 4 Door with a long bed flared out to look like a dually that I made by putting step sides on the fleet side long bed with '93 Cadi lights. The front end of my masterpeice will be an Envoy front clip with a billet grille and the largest Cadi sheild and crest I can find. Paint will be black, of course. And speakers, well I put 58 10's in the last limo stretched S-10 I worked on. I wonder I can fit in a long bed with a shell cap?
    "All I need iz 1 mic"

  15. #30
    BlazinSlow 88blaze's Avatar
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    i also have a question...what is the main reason people do not want to buy the belltech kit? they want the keys only...do they not just want the leafs and want to get blocks?

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