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Thread: THE TURBO BLAZER IS COMPLETE- 56k TAKE A HIKE- PIC

  1. #46
    Registered User Catching Second's Avatar
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    turbo = cool

    one wheel burn out = not cool
    "A true hotrodder wouldn't be content untill he had created a car so violent, so hairy, so totally sick that the very act of dropping the hammer would result in instant death. Anything less results in the need to go faster." - Tony DeFeo

  2. #47
    Registered User joelkatdaddy's Avatar
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    What gear are those runs in? looks like you hit it in 1st and let it shift to 2nd on the dyno...:nono:

  3. #48
    Zombie Killer 6SpeedBlazer's Avatar
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    i was thinking the same thing, i thougth dyno runs were suposed to be run in a 1:1 gear?

  4. #49
    Senior Member bigjsp's Avatar
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    Originally posted by Catching Second
    turbo = cool

    one wheel burn out = not cool
    x2

    time to get posi, and start breaking rearends


    TOTAL COST?

  5. #50
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    WHO DYNOS THEIR OWN CAR? the dyno shop guys dynod it- so i didnt do anything


    that "hole" is where they hit the button when he let off the brake on the dyno


    around $2700 and 70+ man hours
    Last edited by 02Vortech; 10-25-2006 at 11:20 PM.

    http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2237034/4

  6. #51
    Registered User Catching Second's Avatar
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    At both the local shops around here that dyno, you sit in the seat. I would NEVER let anyone operate my motor when dynoing. What do they know for how high that engine should/shouldn't rev... or better yet, how high I would want to rev it.

    Let them blow your motor and have them pay you $2,500 for it so you can build a V8 and run that same turbo on it and make tons more power. :cool:
    "A true hotrodder wouldn't be content untill he had created a car so violent, so hairy, so totally sick that the very act of dropping the hammer would result in instant death. Anything less results in the need to go faster." - Tony DeFeo

  7. #52
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    Originally posted by Catching Second
    At both the local shops around here that dyno, you sit in the seat. I would NEVER let anyone operate my motor when dynoing. What do they know for how high that engine should/shouldn't rev... or better yet, how high I would want to rev it.

    Let them blow your motor and have them pay you $2,500 for it so you can build a V8 and run that same turbo on it and make tons more power. :cool:
    i told him dont take it past 5300 hundred and he didnt so i was fine with that

    http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2237034/4

  8. #53
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    Originally posted by tippmann243
    i was thinking the same thing, i thougth dyno runs were suposed to be run in a 1:1 gear?


    89' S10 blazer 4wd: 355, 650 dp, rpm intake, comp 282 roller cam, modified vortecs, T56 Six speed, 8.8 ls rear, headers, x-pipe, spintech pro street mufflers, and......AC

    Blazer burnout video - http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sP7iLypoDI4

  9. #54
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    I RAN IN THE 1/8TH MILE ITS OUR ONLY LOCAL TRACK-

    8.8 @ 77mph-

    1.96 60ft.- no spining just up and went-

    THIS IS ON 8LBS OF BOOST AND 30" TALL TIRES (heavy as hell)

    boost launch 8lbs- hammer it right before i let off the brake and right after the 3rd light turns on- and ended up with that- ran a 9.2 @ 76mph with a 2.3 60ft when i launched @ 4psi and bogged

    http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2237034/4

  10. #55
    Slow Ride
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    an 8.8 1/8 mile is about 13.8 in the 1/4

    looking at you power numbers I think you are having some losses in the induction system somewhere. the factory rating is 190hp and you are running 8psi. That would mean you should be making 349hp theoretically especially with a large intercooler and all of that piping. You are making 255rwhp. using 20% loss through the drivetrain I come up with 319hp. There are 30hp missing or about 8.5%. Just something to think about. Where are you reading boost at?

    Also for everyone elses reference...

    I had my 357 on the chassis dyno a few years back. It was a basic build at around $2500 or so with aluminum heads, dual plane intake, etc. It made 276 at the rollers and ran 13.3's @ 104

    I had the almost stock 454 on the rollers as well. All stock Vortec 454 with a ZZ502 cam and adjustable valvetrain, RPM airgap. Under $1500 invested. It made 322hp and 375lbft at the rear wheels and ran 12.8@108 on plain radials.

    The current engine combo did not get on the dyno since I broke the new torque converter the first time out. I have under $3500 in the current engine and I'm guessing over 400hp at the tires, since it ran 12.2 at 112 with over 12% slip in the converter and I found chunks of the fins in the tranny pan.

    Not trying to stir up any shit, just give points for reference for someone considering a power upgrade.
    Last edited by Slow Ride; 10-27-2006 at 10:27 PM.

  11. #56
    Eat.Sleep.Lift...repeat EmptyPockets's Avatar
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    id listen to slow ride bro. he knows his shit.

    i mean he has a damn 454 in a fuckin blazer:eek:

  12. #57
    Registered User Catching Second's Avatar
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    Originally posted by Slow Ride
    an 8.8 1/8 mile is about 13.8 in the 1/4

    looking at you power numbers I think you are having some losses in the induction system somewhere. the factory rating is 190hp and you are running 8psi. That would mean you should be making 349hp theoretically especially with a large intercooler and all of that piping. You are making 255rwhp. using 20% loss through the drivetrain I come up with 319hp. There are 30hp missing or about 8.5%. Just something to think about. Where are you reading boost at?

    Also for everyone elses reference...

    I had my 357 on the chassis dyno a few years back. It was a basic build at around $2500 or so with aluminum heads, dual plane intake, etc. It made 276 at the rollers and ran 13.3's @ 104

    I had the almost stock 454 on the rollers as well. All stock Vortec 454 with a ZZ502 cam and adjustable valvetrain, RPM airgap. Under $1500 invested. It made 322hp and 375lbft at the rear wheels and ran 12.8@108 on plain radials.

    The current engine combo did not get on the dyno since I broke the new torque converter the first time out. I have under $3500 in the current engine and I'm guessing over 400hp at the tires, since it ran 12.2 at 112 with over 12% slip in the converter and I found chunks of the fins in the tranny pan.

    Not trying to stir up any shit, just give points for reference for someone considering a power upgrade.
    I concure. A turbo is cool and all, but I just see so much more you can benefit from going with a basic V8 build. But that's just me... and Slow Ride. :bigthumb:
    "A true hotrodder wouldn't be content untill he had created a car so violent, so hairy, so totally sick that the very act of dropping the hammer would result in instant death. Anything less results in the need to go faster." - Tony DeFeo

  13. #58
    Senior Member bigjsp's Avatar
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    If people didn't do something different we wouldn't know.



    but now that I'm seen some real world people using the rear mount turbos they look hopeful.


    bigjsp's mind starts "spooling up"

    --- how to find space under the vehicle for turbos

    --- and space for the intercooler along with ungraded cooling fans

  14. #59
    Zombie Killer 6SpeedBlazer's Avatar
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    you dont really need a intercooler for a rear mount turbo setup

    thats one of the befetifs, the turbo is away from engine heat so there for the boost it creates dosent head up as much since the turbo isnt as hot. plus the the ammot of tubing that needs to be run for the intake is also suposted to drop the temp a few degreese as well

  15. #60
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    STOCK I ONLY MADE 133WHP ---- I DOUBLED THE WHP ON 8PSI- i dont see how its doing bad- supercharged 4.3L on 9psi make 220 to 230whp-


    go ahead and spend for 4 or 5 k on a ls/lq swap- my whole build costed $2500 + man hours- im proud of it- and no i dont want to swap a v8-

    another reason for the supposed low numbers on 8psi is it WASNT TUNED ON 8PSI- RUNNING PIG RICH AND NO TUNING - i could prolly get it up to 275whp @ psi with tuning but im just gonna go to 11psi and tune it-


    tippman- have you ever run a rearmount because the intercooler is a huge help- the boost tubes still get hot as hell- my intercooler is definatly beneficial- the turbo side gets hot as hell after a run and the TB side is cool to the touch- so it definatly helps- and will help more and more as i raise the boost

    http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2237034/4

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