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Thread: i need to know everything for a v8 swap

  1. #16
    Senior Member bigjsp's Avatar
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    Originally posted by stock834x4
    sorry im not into punctuation where do you think ill have troubles with the swap
    lets get some shit straight right now.

    WE at Blazin Low can help ALOT


    but at least hit the fucking enter bar between major thoughts.




    Old bastards like me get ADHD when reading a bunch of text without punctuation

  2. #17
    Senior Member bigjsp's Avatar
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    Originally posted by stock834x4
    ... as i have no welder at my house. my brother does and he has to do all my welding and i cant get the truck there till it runs.

    how are you going to do the swap then, this is not a bolt in will require fabrication

    can you get the truck running with what is in there and do the swap at your brother's?

  3. #18
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    If your on a time crunch, and youve pulled an engine out of somthing before, you should easilly get it completly done in under a week. ( if your keeping it somwhat simple)
    In the case of a 4.3 truck like you have i'd say so, due to being able to leave the t-case in, but on a 2.8 truck where a 2wd tranny is used its twice the work.

  4. #19
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    So basically you have to make a crossmember and put in a different driveshaft. Fab up the crossmember while its still drivable and then slap it in when you do the swap. then you will have a little wiring clean up to do since your going to carb right? still can be done in a week if you dont jack around.


    89' S10 blazer 4wd: 355, 650 dp, rpm intake, comp 282 roller cam, modified vortecs, T56 Six speed, 8.8 ls rear, headers, x-pipe, spintech pro street mufflers, and......AC

    Blazer burnout video - http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sP7iLypoDI4

  5. #20
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    for your ?? jsp i really dont know because im not gonna know what needs to be swapped or welded or what ever.

    sorry still learnin you guys ok give me a chance.


    the engine is not a 4.3 like you said trail its a 3.4 dont know the difference as far as motor mounts or anything but not same engine.

    yes that is pretty much right super i just need guidance on what i need to do thats why im here askin ????

    yes it will be carbed for a long while.

    what wires will need cleaned up?

    a little more clarifying i am losing the 4x4.
    will only be 4x4 suspension after the swap so does that mean ill still need to get a different oil pan and filter relocator?

    im sure i can get the thing running, but it might be sloppy till i can get it to my bros house to fab up a trans mount and whatever else needs to be done.

    since i have a weird size engine in it would anyone be able to tell me if the truck came with a 2.8 factory and still has those motor mounts or will i need to get some and have them put in?

    and i have to apologize for bein new to the site and have to learn what is right and wrong but you gotta start somewhere no need to flame

    really appreciate any help just remember ill have only you guys to thank when its all put together because a student cant learn much when theres no teacher especially when their adhd.

    im tryin to find a camera so i can get you guys pics and get you more info than what i can tell you im sure you could tell me more by seein things than me tellin you.

    the engine in it is not running now another reason for the whole rush.

    i have dropped the trans so far and all thats left to pull is the engine no biggie with a little help if i can get a cherry picker.

    also my brother is a camaro collector he has a few sittin in his yard now one for parts and 2 run he has a spare rad but keeps tellin me its too wide to fit in the blaze is this true?
    its the mid 80 body style with a v8. (not sure which one)
    Last edited by stock834x4; 10-29-2006 at 02:58 AM.

  6. #21
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    much better. If you take out the front differential, the stock oil pan will work fine. As for the 3.4, i cant remember what mounts they use on those, but since the 2.8 frame mounts are like 12 bux so get some new ones anyways.

    Also, as long as you have the oil filter adapter, the little piece that has threads so a oil filter can screw on, just ditch the stock remote filter and use the one on hte bottom of the engine like a normal vehical has.

    As for the wires, you said its goign to be carb for a long time, does that mean your eventually goign fuel injeted later?


    89' S10 blazer 4wd: 355, 650 dp, rpm intake, comp 282 roller cam, modified vortecs, T56 Six speed, 8.8 ls rear, headers, x-pipe, spintech pro street mufflers, and......AC

    Blazer burnout video - http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sP7iLypoDI4

  7. #22
    Senior Member bigjsp's Avatar
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    you are really getting in plenty deep for a first time swap.

    getting rid of the 4x4 means you won't need a special oil pan since there is virtyuall nothing left in the underside.

    I looked at this particular swap 4wd to V8 2wd (except with a 6 speed) about 4 years ago and remember that the rear cross member wasn't anything I couln't do but I have a decent shop, setup for fabricating even complex things.

  8. #23
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    well thats kinda the plan cause i dont like how unrelieable carbs are over time so yes it will be swapped to a injectee

    ok now is starting to understand what i want to know is how much fabing will i need to do on the xmember so that i can get a head start or attempt to.

    the reason im goin with the v8 is because it will be cheaper than gettin the engine in it runnin and w/e. will keep those pos trannys out of it this has been the 3rd or 4th time doin a tranny swap on the truck with the 3.4 in it so def time for upgrade.

    does painless wiring sell a kit for the swap or would i need to junkyard something for the injectee swap, later on?

  9. #24
    Senior Member bigjsp's Avatar
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    Originally posted by stock834x4
    cok now is starting to understand what i want to know is how much fabing will i need to do on the xmember so that i can get a head start or attempt to.

    I tend to build things like that in place, set my angles, cut the pieces, tack them in place then usually remove it and finish weld it, grind , paint and install

    I also have a sizeable selection of metal from beefy flat stock to thick wall 1.5x1.5 and 2x3 and lots of stuff in between.


    remember to plan for your exhuast system(s) too.

  10. #25
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    im probably gonna take the truck to a shop for the exhaust so im not gonna worry about it ill let them

    my bro lives next door to a metal shop so i can get plenty of metal and get it made up custom but thats hard to do without a thing to mock it up against.

    will the tranny be fine long enough to get it to his house he lives almost 50 miles from here or should i find somewhere in town to get it made?

    will i need to worry about my pinion angle since im lowerin it 6 in back?

    what will need to be moved around up front to have a safe 6inch up front (wheel spacers, brake lines, a arm i guess, frame, fenders)

    i played with the torsion keys the other day and seen the engine cradle sat really close to the ground will i need to trim it some to get some clearance so that i can keep the look?
    Last edited by stock834x4; 10-29-2006 at 05:36 PM.

  11. #26
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    Dude, why dont you do one project at a time!!

    And 6inches is almost to much for a daily driver, i go walking speed when i go in and out of entrances and my from crossmember slams alot, thats ith 5in, i can only image 6.


    89' S10 blazer 4wd: 355, 650 dp, rpm intake, comp 282 roller cam, modified vortecs, T56 Six speed, 8.8 ls rear, headers, x-pipe, spintech pro street mufflers, and......AC

    Blazer burnout video - http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sP7iLypoDI4

  12. #27
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    Originally posted by stock834x4
    for your ?? jsp i really dont know because im not gonna know what needs to be swapped or welded or what ever.

    sorry still learnin you guys ok give me a chance.


    the engine is not a 4.3 like you said trail its a 3.4 dont know the difference as far as motor mounts or anything but not same engine.

    yes that is pretty much right super i just need guidance on what i need to do thats why im here askin ????

    yes it will be carbed for a long while.

    what wires will need cleaned up?

    a little more clarifying i am losing the 4x4.
    will only be 4x4 suspension after the swap so does that mean ill still need to get a different oil pan and filter relocator?

    im sure i can get the thing running, but it might be sloppy till i can get it to my bros house to fab up a trans mount and whatever else needs to be done.

    since i have a weird size engine in it would anyone be able to tell me if the truck came with a 2.8 factory and still has those motor mounts or will i need to get some and have them put in?

    and i have to apologize for bein new to the site and have to learn what is right and wrong but you gotta start somewhere no need to flame

    really appreciate any help just remember ill have only you guys to thank when its all put together because a student cant learn much when theres no teacher especially when their adhd.

    im tryin to find a camera so i can get you guys pics and get you more info than what i can tell you im sure you could tell me more by seein things than me tellin you.

    the engine in it is not running now another reason for the whole rush.

    i have dropped the trans so far and all thats left to pull is the engine no biggie with a little help if i can get a cherry picker.

    also my brother is a camaro collector he has a few sittin in his yard now one for parts and 2 run he has a spare rad but keeps tellin me its too wide to fit in the blaze is this true?
    its the mid 80 body style with a v8. (not sure which one)
    i should've mentioned i was replyimng to superbee, sorry bout the mistake. an 83 4x4 would be carb'ed and most likely a 2.8, and the 3.4 you have most likely uses the 2.8 mounts due to rwd 3.4's all using the same block design, a FWD 3.4 block is competely different and wont work at all.

    also you need to fab up the crossmember before you plan on lowering the jack under the tranny much less drive it. i'd measure and fab something up , just tacked together and then put it in place and check your angles and adjust from there.

  13. #28
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    i played with the torsion bars cause i dont have cherry picker to pull the engine right now and dont have the moeny to buy one and i was bored and wanted to see how it was done.

    i will do that then thanks trail

    how can i fix it so i dont hit all the time up front besides raise it back up. doesnt sound safe at all taller tires/wheels, trim the front some and weld a plate on it.

    will i be able to raise the whole drivetrain so that it dont hit the ground I:e reweld crossmembers higher up ????

    and thanks a whole lot on the engine info
    Last edited by stock834x4; 10-29-2006 at 09:47 PM.

  14. #29
    Senior Member bigjsp's Avatar
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    Originally posted by Superbee
    Dude, why dont you do one project at a time!!

    And 6inches is almost to much for a daily driver, i go walking speed when i go in and out of entrances and my from crossmember slams alot, thats ith 5in, i can only image 6.

    x2


    you will need to adjust / shim the rear pinion angle as well.



    what is your $ budget

  15. #30
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    naa man, the front crossmember just sits really low on these things, there really isnt a way around it.


    89' S10 blazer 4wd: 355, 650 dp, rpm intake, comp 282 roller cam, modified vortecs, T56 Six speed, 8.8 ls rear, headers, x-pipe, spintech pro street mufflers, and......AC

    Blazer burnout video - http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sP7iLypoDI4

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