Results 1 to 12 of 12

Thread: TRaditional 4-link?

  1. #1
    Registered User
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    Baton Rouge, La
    Posts
    112

    TRaditional 4-link?

    Think it would be ok to run a traditional 4-link with a panhard bar on a 95 blazer? I'm only looking to tuck 18's cause this will be pretty close to being daily driven, so 20's aren't a must and a body drop will come later in the form of a new frame, was just thinking for the time being i could use a traditional 4-link left upper and lower, and right upper and lower attached to each side of the differential with a panhard bar to keep the rear end centered.

    think it would work?
    from the scion to the blazer, the daily grind is always there.

  2. #2
    No Fat Chicks
    Join Date
    Mar 2004
    Location
    Canada
    Posts
    122
    well....ofcourse it would work...its called a parralel 4 link with panhard. makes sense. ha. it is not gonna be simple...and im assuming you are notching the frame and all that jazz right...??
    -custom 4 link
    -air ride....all custom metal brackets
    -custom control arms
    -custom rear frame
    -adjustable body drop...2-5 inches
    *new rear bag setup in works*

  3. #3
    Registered User
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    Baton Rouge, La
    Posts
    112
    2.25 inch bolt in notch, like i said i don't wanna tuck 20's just 18's.
    from the scion to the blazer, the daily grind is always there.

  4. #4
    Registered User
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    Baton Rouge, La
    Posts
    112
    i don't think it will be a walk in the park but i think it will be much easier than doing a triangulated 4-link with a panhard. I'm not the best do-it yourself person but i do know the basics.
    from the scion to the blazer, the daily grind is always there.

  5. #5
    No Fat Chicks
    Join Date
    Mar 2004
    Location
    Canada
    Posts
    122
    if only it were that easy eh. Im supposing your looking for a complete bolt on system aswell eh
    -custom 4 link
    -air ride....all custom metal brackets
    -custom control arms
    -custom rear frame
    -adjustable body drop...2-5 inches
    *new rear bag setup in works*

  6. #6
    No Fat Chicks
    Join Date
    Mar 2004
    Location
    Canada
    Posts
    122
    well with blazers its a whole different ball game....with an s10 you can remove the box making it a whole fuck easier. with blazers its a biatch. mine is a 1991, and it took a long time. i chose a custom traigluated 4 link..no kit...made my own notch...when it came down to it with blazers u almost have to choose ur own way. if u can weld ur gold...if u understand the engineering and movement of suspension ur gold...if not...look for help cause u dont wanna run into problems when ur cruisin down the road.
    -custom 4 link
    -air ride....all custom metal brackets
    -custom control arms
    -custom rear frame
    -adjustable body drop...2-5 inches
    *new rear bag setup in works*

  7. #7
    will work for food! phatfarmer2's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Location
    North NJ
    Posts
    7,295

    Re: TRaditional 4-link?

    Originally posted by BlownAMC
    Think it would be ok to run a traditional 4-link with a panhard bar on a 95 blazer? I'm only looking to tuck 18's cause this will be pretty close to being daily driven, so 20's aren't a must and a body drop will come later in the form of a new frame, was just thinking for the time being i could use a traditional 4-link left upper and lower, and right upper and lower attached to each side of the differential with a panhard bar to keep the rear end centered.

    think it would work?
    a regular triangulaed 4 link will just be as much work as a parell 4 link... 2.5 notch might work, but im not so sure on 18's.. depends on the size tire really..
    Grounded 4 Life
    "continuing where the factory left off"

    Street Source page

    Projects i've done

    V8 Love
    Pneumatic Love

  8. #8
    Registered User
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    Baton Rouge, La
    Posts
    112
    funny u should mention that, over the summer i am taking a suspension dynamics and welding certification classes at Louisiana Tech. I'm taking them just to do the blazer.

    I know what is involved i just don't know how to start to tackle it. This is how i planned to take it.

    1.) completely remove leaf springs and hardware.
    2.) weld a frame support beam with a notch for driveshaft clearance.
    3.) weld the mouting points of the parllel 4-link on the support beam in such a way that it will allow the blazer to lay frame.
    4.) Put a panhard bar on the back to center the rear-end.
    5.) Bags will be placed behind the differential.

    I think it can accomplish that with a 2.25 inch bolt in c-notch to tuck 18's without cutting the floor, if not im sure cutting the fenders to re-do them to possible tuck 19's or 20's wouldn't be to much of a problem.

    I just forsee a triangulated 4-link being to much of a pain to do without cutting the floor, and that is not an option.

    Cutting the fender wells is ok, but floors is a no.
    Last edited by BlownAMC; 02-06-2007 at 06:48 PM.
    from the scion to the blazer, the daily grind is always there.

  9. #9
    No Fat Chicks
    Join Date
    Mar 2004
    Location
    Canada
    Posts
    122
    well....a tri 4 link was a biotch ...i managed to use the stock crossmember that arches under the rear seats...but ask urself this...where exactly are u gonna build that frame beam with the notch for driveshaft..without cutting floor...and where are u gonna mount the parralel bars.....and then where u gonna mount the parrele bars...u dnt have to answer to me...im just mentioning it all cause u wanna make sure u dont have to redo it...good luck buddy...its kick ass when its finished tho!
    -custom 4 link
    -air ride....all custom metal brackets
    -custom control arms
    -custom rear frame
    -adjustable body drop...2-5 inches
    *new rear bag setup in works*

  10. #10
    Registered User
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    Baton Rouge, La
    Posts
    112
    i have some pretty good ideas of where to mount them even though i have only had the blazer on the lift once, i have a friend who has bagged and body dropped many s10's and full sized chevy's he is gonna watch over my shoulder, and he told me i could pass all my ideas through him before i set anything in concrete, just wanted to see what ya'lls opinion on the easyness of this project would come out to. Apparently its just as hard as anything out there, but i think ill step out the box and try it, rather than going with a triangualted 4-link.
    from the scion to the blazer, the daily grind is always there.

  11. #11
    Senior Member bigjsp's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2002
    Location
    Columbus, OH
    Posts
    12,665
    Originally posted by BlownAMC
    i don't think it will be a walk in the park but i think it will be much easier than doing a triangulated 4-link with a panhard. I'm not the best do-it yourself person but i do know the basics.
    triangulated doesn't need and shouldn't be ran with a panhard as it would bind.

    IMO take your coursework this summer, save your money and be the best prepared both skill wise and financially.

    If you HAVE to be lower go with drop spindles and blocks. When you are ready you will only have $20 invested in the blocks rather than $300 in a boltin. You will need the spindles anyways

    You can build spacers under the bags to allow switching rims and maintaining maximum travel so design for your maximum.

  12. #12
    Registered User
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    Baton Rouge, La
    Posts
    112
    Originally posted by bigjsp
    triangulated doesn't need and shouldn't be ran with a panhard as it would bind.

    IMO take your coursework this summer, save your money and be the best prepared both skill wise and financially.

    If you HAVE to be lower go with drop spindles and blocks. When you are ready you will only have $20 invested in the blocks rather than $300 in a boltin. You will need the spindles anyways

    You can build spacers under the bags to allow switching rims and maintaining maximum travel so design for your maximum.
    good idea, thanks man!
    from the scion to the blazer, the daily grind is always there.

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •