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Thread: Intresting thread from syty.net

  1. #16
    Spoolin' turbodog's Avatar
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    Cool. I think the same conclusion was just reached over at syty.net:
    http://www.syty.net/forums/showthread.php?t=49528
    Rick
    '92 Typhoon

  2. #17
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    umm, when your slammed your a-arm is pointing like this \ (not that much obviously, but you get the idea) and that means your balljoint is angled alot, so its like 3/4 toward the inside and it goes more on suspension movement, (idk about hte 3/4 part but its angled a decent amount)


    89' S10 blazer 4wd: 355, 650 dp, rpm intake, comp 282 roller cam, modified vortecs, T56 Six speed, 8.8 ls rear, headers, x-pipe, spintech pro street mufflers, and......AC

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  3. #18
    Under Construction 98low4x4blazer's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Superbee View Post
    umm, when your slammed your a-arm is pointing like this \ (not that much obviously, but you get the idea) and that means your balljoint is angled alot, so its like 3/4 toward the inside and it goes more on suspension movement, (idk about hte 3/4 part but its angled a decent amount)
    x2
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  4. #19
    Spoolin' turbodog's Avatar
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    I have a slightly different take on this. I am guessing (and have done a few crude experiements to confirm) that GM engineers, imperfect though they might be, would not design a suspension where the ball joint runs out of travel/binds/self destructs when the suspension is ANYWHERE in it's designed range of travel (from hard against the bump stop to 'full droop'). Now, those who have removed the bump-stop or otherwise increased their suspension travel beyond original range MIGHT have a different story.

    Before my coil-over conversion, I pulled the torsion bar, then jacked the a-arm/steering knuckle assy through its full range of travel. I estimated the best I could see how far the ball joint was bent at each extreme. After ripping it all out, near as I could tell, the ball joint had SOME (not much) travel available beyond the angle I observed. I know this is not ironclad 'proof' of anything.

    Also, even though the ball joint may not bind/self destruct INSTANTLY due to being near the edge of it's travel, it MIGHT wear more quickly if run at that angle continuously. That, I can't even guess at.

    In the end, I went with the (now discontinued) tubular a-arm with 'improved' ball-joint geometry.
    Rick
    '92 Typhoon

  5. #20
    Under Construction 98low4x4blazer's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by turbodog View Post
    In the end, I went with the (now discontinued) tubular a-arm with 'improved' ball-joint geometry.
    what arms you runnin? jw
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  6. #21
    Spoolin' turbodog's Avatar
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    I bought the JS Manufacturing kit, thru Turbotime. No longer available.

    The kit from RPM (still available) is better build quality. The JSM kit had better ball-joint geometry. It also has the tubular portion of the a-arm going all the way out to the ball joint. On the RPM kit, the tubular portion stopped about 1 inch away from the ball joint, leaving the flat piece of mild steel to take a lot of stress. Dunno, Mike might have changed the design since I looked.

    If I was to do it again right now, I would do the coilovers with the stock a-arms.

    Remember, the lower a-arm and ball joint carry all the weight. The upper a arm and ball joint simply position the top of the steering knuckle, setting the caster and camber.

    On the RPM arm, below, see the gap between the end of the tube and the ball joint hole?



    Now look at JSM:



    The tube goes as close to the ball joint as possible. Also, note how the flat plate (where the ball joint mounts) is bent on the RPM arm, but flat on the JSM arm. This is the difference that helps with ball joint angles.
    Last edited by turbodog; 06-08-2007 at 03:36 PM.
    Rick
    '92 Typhoon

  7. #22
    Under Construction 98low4x4blazer's Avatar
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    yea the JSM are good quality stuff. I talk to him a few times about his arms. I have never seen the RPM are in person, but i agree with everything stated above. I ended up building my own arms because there where a few changes i had to make for my setup
    pic's of what my blazer used to be
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    custom parts are built not bought

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  8. #23
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    for the front, probably anything over 4 inches will be hitting the brackets on the front, i had to cut mine off, its not that hard, and for the rear, do leafs, and the blocks if you want the drop, then add a decent set of shocks like monroe's and stay away from those fucking air shocks, and install a frame notch or it will be constantly hitting which is probably why you though the rear rode bad.

    There is no keeping the torsion bars and the coils at the same time, you need to remove the t-bars completly.


    89' S10 blazer 4wd: 355, 650 dp, rpm intake, comp 282 roller cam, modified vortecs, T56 Six speed, 8.8 ls rear, headers, x-pipe, spintech pro street mufflers, and......AC

    Blazer burnout video - http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sP7iLypoDI4

  9. #24
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    Ummm this is very interesting... If my blazer doesnt sell I might have to try this out. If I cut the bumpstop bracket off and take out the halfshafts will I be able to go low like 5-6in?
    98 Blazer - 4x4 4dr - Kenwood Headunit - 2 10" MA Audio in Ported Box - Infinity 611a - 20% Tints. Soon to be dropped.

  10. #25
    Under Construction 98low4x4blazer's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 98Blaze View Post
    Ummm this is very interesting... If my blazer doesnt sell I might have to try this out. If I cut the bumpstop bracket off and take out the halfshafts will I be able to go low like 5-6in?
    or you could lay it flat on it frame...............anything is possible its just a matter of the amount of work you want to do
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  11. #26
    sea biscuit Flim-jIM's Avatar
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    ye im running around 5.5 in. in the front, you will definentely have cut the bumpstop bracket off
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  12. #27
    ls1+t56+01=love low86blazer's Avatar
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    Im at about 5inchs in the front and with the stock bumpstop bracket it rode like shit and had no travel it would bounce off the frame that was the movement, not suspension travel.

    After i cut the brackets off, the front is damn near stock ride if not softer. Now my concern is the top balljoint angle, and tie rod angles. For best preformence tie rods should be level at ride height??? correct???
    Quote Originally Posted by bayhustle81 View Post
    can i add the vortec to this 4.3 if it didnt come with one?
    Quote Originally Posted by Superbee View Post

  13. #28
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    Look on your upper control arm, there is a rubber triangle shaped snubber. take that off, the cut off the piece of metal that its connected to.

    and for your last question, yes.


    89' S10 blazer 4wd: 355, 650 dp, rpm intake, comp 282 roller cam, modified vortecs, T56 Six speed, 8.8 ls rear, headers, x-pipe, spintech pro street mufflers, and......AC

    Blazer burnout video - http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sP7iLypoDI4

  14. #29
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    I know its an old thread but I did some more research about this..


    Coilover front suspension for Sy/Tys. Should work on all 4wd's right?

    http://www.turbotime.us/ProductDetai...324-1186250402

    I cant seem to find the control arms but they apparently still make them as they are listed on JS's home page.

    Figure this would probably be cheaper and less work than doing a whole 2wd frame swap.
    Last edited by Ordie; 12-27-2007 at 04:22 AM.
    Greg
    01 GMC Jimmy 4dr 4WD - Belltech 3/3

  15. #30
    Under Construction 98low4x4blazer's Avatar
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    All s-series have the same front suspension on 4wds. these are will work for you no problem
    pic's of what my blazer used to be
    Http://www.streetsourcemag.com/Profile.aspx?profileid=22972

    custom parts are built not bought

    When its done, you'll wish it was yours.


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