Page 1 of 3 123 LastLast
Results 1 to 15 of 39

Thread: HOW TO: Lower your 4x4. CHEAP

  1. #1
    Registered User
    Join Date
    Apr 2002
    Posts
    66

    HOW TO: Lower your 4x4. CHEAP

    This info was collected between Blazinlow and S-series.com
    Thanks guys. Enjoy.

    All of these procedures only cover the Front end drop. Theres alot of people interest in this, so any rear end drop questions post elsewear.

    Please read the whole thread before asking your questions it makes the thread to hard to read.
    --------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

    "BOLT TRICK"
    1st And 2nd Gens.
    0-6" Total Cost: Alignment. + "2" 1/2 bolts

    This is the best way so far to lower a 4x4 S-truck. I assume i found this info on www.Blazinlow.com. Whoever posted that, Thank you. You get all the credit. PM me il post your name here.

    Okay get under your truck and take a look at the setup. There is a torsion bar, with a key on the end inside the crossmember. The key is sittin on a bolt which i threaded into a block, this way you can adjust it. What were gonna do is replace the block with a Bolt, that is horizonally mounted in the crossmember.

    Jack up the front of your truck, on the front crossmember.

    Take out the adjuster bolts. (The bolts that are threaded into the blocks.)
    The keys should be resting on the blocks now. Let your truck down to see the height, this is where you get under your truck and imagine where to position the key. Take that position and go about 1/2 lower just incase.

    Now, your goin to drill a hole there, make sure there even from side to side. Drill your holes, nice and straight, and insert your half inch bolts through the crossmember. The keys will sit on these later, put some nuts on the end of the bolts just incase.

    Okay, the bolts are in place. That was easy wasnt it. Now, we have to get the keys to rest on them. How? we have to get rid of the blocks!

    Take another jack, position it right under your crossmember, get a 3/4 inch deep socket or something strong of similar shape and set it on your jack.
    CAUTION: This part is kinda dangerous. Get safety glasses and coverals because were goin to jack up the key with the socket sittin on the jack, if something slips the torsion bar will snap pretty hard. Or better yet fire the socket at you.

    Jack up the key, nice and slow, it will almost lift the truck up, after all pressure is off the block, slide it out. Now you can let your little jack down so the pressure is off the key, it will come to rest on the bolt you put in earlier.

    Thats it!

    Do for both sides then set your jack down the front will drop and just keep dropping its fun stuff.

    To adjust with this setup you have to get bushings made, to slide over the bolts in the crossmember, this way its fully adjustable.
    If you dont want to pay toget bushings, find some washers to fit the bolt, get a stack and put them onthe bolt in the crossmember.

    --------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

    "BOLT CRANKDOWN TRICK"
    1st And 2nd Gens.
    0-2" Total Cost: Alignment.

    With this drop, you will be adjusting the Torsion bars. The Torsion bar is like a spring, but instead of compressing, it twists.
    1. At the back of your doors, just inside your frame rails there is a crossmember that your torsion bars mount to. At the mountin point there is an adjuster bolt.Spray adjuster bolt threads with some WD-40
    2. Now take a socket and a strong arm, and back the bolt out. Backin it out adjusts the twist in the torsion bar, and thus adjusts the front control arm. You can take the bolt right out for maximum drop. You should be able to get a full 2 inches of drop. After the drop i suggest to get an alignment.

    --------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

    Sy/Ty Key swap trick is gone!
    Thanks to s10 blazed weve came to the concludion that they adjuster keys used in all 1st gens are exactly the same. The Sy/Tys used different torsion bars to get there lower stance.


    "KEY SWAP"
    2nd Gens ONLY.

    Each Torsion bar adjuster key has a paint dab on it to identify it.

    Yellow Keys-1st and 2nd Gen. (235/75/15)
    Blue Keys-2nd gen only. (235/70/15)
    Red Keys-UKNOWN

    There for if you have a second gen with Yellow Keys. (235/75/15) You can use the Blue Keys to lower its stance 1". That + the Torsion bar crankdown = 3" drop!



    -------------------------------------------------------------------------------------



    "SLIMGU TRICK"
    1st Gens.
    If anyone knows this is possible with a second Gen then PM me please!

    5.5-6.5" Total Cost: Alignment.
    Info from www.Blazinlow.com
    Thanks to SlimGu3

    Before you start (at least a day in advance) you should soak both ends of the torsion bars with a good lube like Lithium or WD-40. Driving around on bumpy roads will help work the lube into the mating spaces.
    1. Jack up the front end and place jack stands securely under the frame so it is well supported. The front tires must be up off the ground enough for a jack to get under the tires or control arms for a later adjustment.
    2. Take off the front bump stops. They must be removed or the truck will sit on them. (it should be a 9/16 nut).
    3. At the crossmember (where the rear of the torsion bars stop) unscrew the 2 adjuster bolts. Remove these completely.
    4. Use a two jaw puller (can be rented at Auto Zone for about $40.00 deposit) to lift the torsion bar adjuster arm (or key) up off its support block, so you can remove the blocks out of the rear hole in the crossmember. Then slowly let the puller back down to release the pressure.
    5. Use a hammer and drift tap to pound the torsion bar towards the front of the vehicle. If you cannot get them to tap out you can remove the 4 bolts holding the whole crossmember in place and tap the crossmember toward the REAR with a sledge hammer, until both adjuster arms fall out. For some of you the exhaust might be in the way, You can use a jack to hold the pipe up out of the way.
    6. You should be able to slide the bars forward a few inches to 'disengage' them from the control arm hole. Use a jack to lift the wheel/control arms up until until the tire just about tucks into the wheel well.
    7. Place the key back onto the torsion bar exactly the way it came off (you may have to reinstall the crossmember first) or just pull the torsion bar back into the key hole. Make sure you reinstall the adjuater arm keys UPSIDE-DOWN. Make sure the shape of the key holes match up with the torsion bar shape before you tap them back in place.
    8. If done correctly the support blocks should go back in with the keys sitting just above them.
    9. Then put the torsion bar bolts back into the blocks and tighten them all the way up. MAKE SURE YOU ANGLE THE BLOCKS AND TORSION BAR BOLTS DIRECTLY TOWARDS THE KEYS, IF NOT THE BLOCKS WILL SLIP.

    Once both sides are done exactly like this, you can let the front end down and see how you did. You should be able to bounce the front end down a few inches before it bottoms out.
    You can now screw/unscrew the adjuster bolts for final leveling out or lowing even more. You should be able to adjust from a 5.5" to a 6.5" drop.
    The ride quality suffers is a bit bouncy due to lack of suspension travel left. Also the stock shocks are too compressed to function at all. Drop shocks will help and pancake bump stops will soften bottoming out.
    Last edited by warren87_28_4x4; 09-11-2002 at 08:15 PM.

  2. #2
    Administrator Blazin Low's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2001
    Location
    In Front of You
    Posts
    4,702
    this is a nice addition to the other sticky as Slim posted...thanks for the info :bigthumb:
    this is a test of the sig

  3. #3
    Warned Member Lucky Dime's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2002
    Location
    Milford, CT
    Posts
    2,043
    do the sy/ty keys work or are they too small??

  4. #4
    Registered User
    Join Date
    Apr 2002
    Posts
    66
    They work, But they do not work for the Key Flip trick i am told. They give you about a 3 inch drop when the Adjuster bolt is tooken out.

    EDIT: They were not Sy/Ty keys. I stand corrected, and we updated the info in the original post. It should all be correct now.
    Last edited by warren87_28_4x4; 09-11-2002 at 08:07 PM.

  5. #5
    Warned Member Lucky Dime's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2002
    Location
    Milford, CT
    Posts
    2,043
    i heard that they will not work because sy/ty torsion bars are smaller

  6. #6
    Registered User
    Join Date
    Apr 2002
    Posts
    66
    I recomend the Bolt Trick. You could be done your drop 15 minutes from now. :smoker:
    Last edited by warren87_28_4x4; 09-11-2002 at 08:08 PM.

  7. #7
    Warned Member Lucky Dime's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2002
    Location
    Milford, CT
    Posts
    2,043
    S/T Lover used belltech keys not sy/ty keys...S10Blazed lowered his truck

  8. #8
    My S-10 fleet is gone... s10blazed's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2001
    Location
    Near Pittsburgh, PA
    Posts
    7,532
    Originally posted by Blazin89
    S/T Lover used belltech keys not sy/ty keys...S10Blazed lowered his truck
    Well.. thats kinda right. He bought them used from Drunk411. Its not 100% that they are Belltech, but they are probably not GM parts and they did lower the truck. So unless Drunk411 knows any thing more, I am just gonna assume they were Belltech.

  9. #9
    Registered User
    Join Date
    Apr 2002
    Posts
    66
    I read this a while back on an S10 board...

    ...When belltech made there drop kit they copied the dropping method used by the company that made the Sy/Tys because it was a good simple method and they still had acceptable ride quality. That company that did the Sy/Tys went out of business a long time ago.

    I heard today that the Sy/Ty keys are smaller diameter, i have never heard of this and havent got any info to give you about them.

    Hope this helps
    Last edited by warren87_28_4x4; 09-07-2002 at 02:27 PM.

  10. #10
    My S-10 fleet is gone... s10blazed's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2001
    Location
    Near Pittsburgh, PA
    Posts
    7,532
    I heard somewhere that Belltech DID make the Sy/Ty keys.. but I dont have any proof either way.... I plan on buying a set of Sy/Ty keys just to confirm whether or not they work. If it works I will drive on it for a few days to get a feel for how it rides then sell them. I'll order them up maybe tomorrow. Someone just remind me... i am kinda busy lately.

  11. #11
    I like mine w/ no shine! 89 Blaze's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2002
    Location
    C-Beach NJ
    Posts
    194
    where can i find "pancake bump stops"? I did that a while ago to my 4x4 and the ride is horrible because i have no bumpstops.. Also does anyone know if i can take the transfercase out of the front end ? I want to lose it because i got a 350 turbo trans w/o a trans case and want to ditch the weight in the front... thanx
    1989 S-10 Blazer 4x4
    6/6 drop, K&n intake, hollowed cat., vortex exhaust, turbo350 trans, shift kit, B&M ratchet shifter, new drive shaft, 17" rims, pirelli tires, God Father Customs bodykit, Auto Meter sport comp silver tach, cowl hood

  12. #12
    My S-10 fleet is gone... s10blazed's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2001
    Location
    Near Pittsburgh, PA
    Posts
    7,532
    AIM Industries sells pancake bumpstops for $8 each and $16 for shipping.

  13. #13
    My S-10 fleet is gone... s10blazed's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2001
    Location
    Near Pittsburgh, PA
    Posts
    7,532
    I ordered my Typhoon keys today. I should get them in on Thursday if all goes well. I will let everyone know how they work and I'll get plenty of pictures.

  14. #14
    Warned Member Lucky Dime's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2002
    Location
    Milford, CT
    Posts
    2,043
    aight cool john let me in on buyin em...if they work ill get em off u if u wanna sell em so let be the first to know...peace

  15. #15
    My S-10 fleet is gone... s10blazed's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2001
    Location
    Near Pittsburgh, PA
    Posts
    7,532
    Ok, you're first on the list.

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •