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Thread: Welding Processes, Tips, Tricks, Facts, and Techniques

  1. #16
    Smash it 4.3 zach's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by V8SuperBeetle View Post
    Very useful! I learned to arc (stick) weld in high school years ago and intend to buy a cheap little arc welder, that'll run off of your standard home outlet, for my project car. This was a good refresher coarse. The work I intend to do will be about 50/50 chassis work and sheet metal work. What rod and technique would you suggest for welding sheet metal and for doing the chassis work (.125"-.25")? A 7018 rod using a stitch weld technique for sheet metal to prevent warping (vertical welds)? 6010 rods, multiple passes, but welding 1"-1.5" sections at a time to prevent warping (I use the circular technique to produce a sound weld and nice looking bead)? Any advice will help! Thanks!
    For the sheetmetal you might just want to pick up some 1 lb packs of various rods and test them out to see what works best for you.

    6010 and 6011 will penetrate very well and solidify very quickly But because of the strong penetrating characteristics blow through, or burning holes could be a problem. Those rods you will want to use a quick "whipping" technique. Basically stepping back and forth fairly quickly >>>>>

    6013 burns similar to a 7018 IMO and seems to work ok on sheetmetal. This rod you will probably just want to drag in a straight line.

    7014 is supposed to be great on sheetmetal but I have no first hand experience. I am home this week so if I get a chance ill pick up some different rods and see what seems to work best.

    For the chassis stuff I would use a 7018 rod. In the flat and horizontal position you can either drag the rod or do a slight circular motion. Both will look similar to a mig weld. In the vertical position you will want to do an overlapping side to side motion. Kind of hard to explain, sorry. The chassis stuff can be single pass or multi pass. It just depends on the thickness of the base metal, rod size, and weld size. The weld should be as big as the base metal is thick.
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  2. #17
    Smash it 4.3 zach's Avatar
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    But I do agree with those guys to an extent^ If you are planning on welding exterior sheetmetal I would start looking for a small mig or even a FC welder. It is possible to stick weld sheetmetal with minimal to no distortion but you may find it can take quite a bit of practice as opposed to mig welding.
    06 ccsb 2/5 drop, SS 20's, 370, L92 Heads, LT's/ORY, 237/242 .603/609 112, 2pc. driveshaft, 4l80e, 3500 stall, 12.8 @ 106

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  3. #18
    V8 Super Beetle V8SuperBeetle's Avatar
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    Thanks for all the advice guys! I understand about blowing through the sheet metal stick welding, I just didn't know if there was a rod I could use to do both jobs with one machine. I think I might try what 4.3 zach suggested and practice on some sheet metal to see if I can get it to work before welding on my car. I just don't want to spend around $500+ for a machine or two to do both jobs cause I'll only use it for this project and wont get any use out of it afterwards. If using a stick wont work maybe I'll try an inexpensive gas welder kit or just rent a mig for the sheet metal work.

    That would be a big help if you could and don't mind testing welding sheet metal with different rods and what technique to use!

    Thanks again!
    Last edited by V8SuperBeetle; 12-21-2007 at 10:59 AM.

  4. #19
    Registered User Veritas's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by V8SuperBeetle View Post
    Thanks for all the advice guys! I understand about blowing through the sheet metal stick welding, I just didn't know if there was a rod I could use to do both jobs with one machine. I think I might try what 4.3 zach suggested and practice on some sheet metal to see if I can get it to work before welding on my car. I just don't want to spend around $500+ for a machine or two to do both jobs cause I'll only use it for this project and wont get any use out of it afterwards. If using a stick wont work maybe I'll try an inexpensive gas welder kit or just rent a mig for the sheet metal work.

    That would be a big help if you could and don't mind testing welding sheet metal with different rods and what technique to use!

    Thanks again!


    Using a stick on sheet metal will work but it just take hours and hours of practice ive been welding approx 2 hours a day for the last 2 years and im still improving everyday... What is really gonna screw with you learning to stickweld on sheetmetal is the electrode sticking which is gonna annihilate the sheet metal everytime and really frustrate the shit out of you... However the important thing to focus on here is the frame work and not the sheet metal... If you lose a panel or a weld cracks on your floorpan no big deal but your frame splits and your screwed... Keeping this in mind for safetys sake speaking in the terms of "cheap welders" the cheap stick welder is going to penetrate better than the cheap mig on heavy steel... So i might retract my earlier statement, not in saying that the mig would be best to do both jobs because it would be, but that if i was doing what you were doing and i had to buy only one? Id go with the stick welder to make sure the frame got done right. Or wire 220 and buy a cheap TIG... If you do get a mig you can get good enough with practice that with a couple of passes with the cheap mig itll be stronger than the arc welder or you can preheat the metal with a torch after you tack it and the weak welder will penetrate the hot steel better, but the sticks blatant and unavoidable penetration is better for a begginer on thick steel.

  5. #20
    dreamin85 dreamin85's Avatar
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    I know some of the guys in here went to school to weld, & do it every day. My hat's off to them. I never went to school (welding),but I do a lot of it! I learned it by watching, & trial & error. I used to help a friend of mine build trailers(stick), and picked up MIG on my own. Granted I dont know everything there is to know, and never will! Point is: Dont be affraid to try! Just practice on some scrap....ALOT!!!!! If u notice, Body shops would rather replace a pannel, than weld up a split! Because heat and sheet metal don't like aech other!...Hard technique to master.(that is w/o warpage & shrinkage!) Maybe one day I'll be perfect at it!....Good luck.;)

  6. #21
    Registered User gdombeck's Avatar
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    I have to disagree with something you said at the beginning of your thread. Pulling and pushing the weld puddle is a personal choice. One is no better than the other "if" you are a skilled welder. Some people are just more comfortable using one or the other. We have new welders coming in to my shop all the time and we ask them why they always push? They always say its better and looks better. I then pull a weld that looks a ton better then thiers. Its all about techinque. I always tell the new welders, this is how I do it, it works for me. Feel free to do it your own way.

  7. #22
    Registered User andizzle's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by gdombeck View Post
    I have to disagree with something you said at the beginning of your thread. Pulling and pushing the weld puddle is a personal choice. One is no better than the other "if" you are a skilled welder. Some people are just more comfortable using one or the other. We have new welders coming in to my shop all the time and we ask them why they always push? They always say its better and looks better. I then pull a weld that looks a ton better then thiers. Its all about techinque. I always tell the new welders, this is how I do it, it works for me. Feel free to do it your own way.
    i would agree with some of that..but..if u are mig welding depending on what wire u are using and what type of metal u are welding on u can get impuritys in your weld from pushing the puddle....alot of people get it it from not cleaning the area good enough before welding or they dont have enough argon flow and get porosity..now when i was still welding structure steel we had no choice but to push the puddle or it wouldnt lay flat enough....when i went to college for welding i picked up that welding flat or horizontal pulling the puddle works better...but overhead pushing works..and with the welder i have vertical down works the best
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  8. #23
    Registered User gdombeck's Avatar
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    Then we agree. I typically pull. But many times I will push just because its easier, or its the only position that works. I have to say I have never lost gas cover from pushing or pulling, just when I weld too close to a fan.

  9. #24
    Registered User andizzle's Avatar
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    i have lost gas on a few things when welding mig..travel angle can help that along...to steep and a faster speed will do it along with make alot of splater, but alot of the times that i have seen pushing go bad is from not cleaning the weld area, alot of old timers and some rookies are stuck on the 6010 stick welding theory that it can weld through anything and mig should to.....one thing i have lost gas on the most is tig welding titanium...in college we had to use purge plates to add even more flow to keep things from going to crap
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  10. #25
    Registered User Veritas's Avatar
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    Random Tips and Thoughts

    The part about safety glasses is a good idea (when you see your first grinding wheel explode youll know why) just to throw it out there the only time ive ever had to go get my eye drilled I was wearing safety glasses.

    About gloves i use a mechanics glove on my right hand and a welding glove on my left just something people might try makes it a little easier for me to feel my way through it... unless im welding a new bottom in a excavator bucket or something big then it gets to hot and melts the small gloves too quickly to pay for em.

    I might have missed someone mentioning it but never cool your shit with water! air only or youll temper the steel and make it useless and brittle.

    Incase of flash burn put raw potatoe slices on your eyes and it sucks out all the badness.

    When Arc welding remember the stick is hot... Laugh but you guys know youve stuck yourself at least twice...

    Heating metal... while using a torch on strength sensitive steel use more acetylene than normal same o2 and it wont remove as much carbon from the steel preventing it from weakening.

    Surface prep is crazy important and penetration is more important than looks

  11. #26
    5.7L VORTEC 350 blazin4low's Avatar
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    I'm using a 90amp Flux wire welder and seem to be getting a lot of splater. I am new to welding but what do I need to try/change to get rid of the splater?

    right now I'm just playing with exhaust piping
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  12. #27
    ls1+t56+01=love low86blazer's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by blazin4low View Post
    I'm using a 90amp Flux wire welder and seem to be getting a lot of splater. I am new to welding but what do I need to try/change to get rid of the splater?

    right now I'm just playing with exhaust piping
    flux is gonna splatter alot...hows the bead look?
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  13. #28
    Registered User dragnblazer's Avatar
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    Ya flux splaters alot.
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  14. #29
    5.7L VORTEC 350 blazin4low's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by low86blazer View Post
    flux is gonna splatter alot...hows the bead look?
    I'm not going to lie, the bead looks like shit. It's popping and spitting. I'm using Lincon wire and the heat setting is on low. I started getting better then the wire ran out. Seems I need to get the right wire feed speed for me.

    When I get some more grinding pads I'm going to grind down the weld smooth and see what kind of penetration I did or didn't get.

    I found on a welding forum if you use spam or some kind of cooking spary it helps the splatter not to stick and cuts down on clean up.
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  15. #30
    Registered User dragnblazer's Avatar
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    Theres stuff that looks like vasoline. That you dip the tip of the gun in that says it helps. Never tryed it
    My project thread 89 bagged 2door
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