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Thread: Drop block install tutorial (pics request)

  1. #46
    Registered User stateofidleness's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Baggd2DaXtreeme View Post
    if you cant figure out how to install a set of lowering blocks just by looking at them, call someone else to do it cause youre probably just gonna fuck something up.
    thx for the input... we all have to start somewhere...
    1998 Blazer
    I'm new to all this / bear with me.

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  2. #47
    you broke my chair!! baggd's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by stateofidleness View Post
    thx for the input... we all have to start somewhere...
    yeah, start with drop blocks. then look under your truck. if you cant figure out where they go and how to go about getting them there you dont belong under a vehicle. just like i dont belong in an operating room doing open heart surgery.
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  3. #48
    Registered User stateofidleness's Avatar
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    i have basically NO exposure to workin on vehicles man... im tryin to learn.. i could be someone that pays someone else to do all my work on my blazer and then post here showin how cool it is... would that be betteR?

    im tryin to "do this myself"... and i dont care how steep the learning curve is... just lookin for guidance, not sarcasm... if you can't offer it, stay out of the thread
    1998 Blazer
    I'm new to all this / bear with me.

    My Blazer Buildup: http://home.satx.rr.com/stateofidleness

    i'm a geek. plans mostly include carputing. any questions just ask.

  4. #49
    Zombie Killer 6SpeedBlazer's Avatar
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    im working on a tutorial right now, give me a few and ill have an almost complet one up

    edit, also where do you live, if your local id be more then willing to install the drop for a pizza and teach you whats going on in hte process
    Last edited by 6SpeedBlazer; 07-03-2007 at 06:19 PM.

  5. #50
    Zombie Killer 6SpeedBlazer's Avatar
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    hope this helps. your blazer has the new style brakes so its gonna be a bit different then my 89 so bear with me on a few parts

    first start by securing the truck on jackstands and removing both fron wheels

    this is the upper shock mount. i undo the top first then move to the bottom. sizes are going to vary from shock to shock.


    this is the lower shock mount. there are two bolts holding it on. iirc its a 13 for 1st gens and 15 for seconds



    next remove the caliper. mine is the large red/orange unit. on mine there are two allen headed bolts holding it on. for you i believe its two 13mm bolts but dont quote me on the sizes. once you remove the two bolts the caliper will slide off. some times it takes a few taps from a hammer to get them off.



    once the caliper is off you will have to remove the caliper mount. should be held on by two bolts and its a piece that bolts to the spindle and over the rotor. sorry no pics since i have the old style brakes

    once the caliper mount is off the rotor should slide right off the hub

    once the rotr is off remove the cotter key from the outer tie rod end then remove the castle nut and proced to speperate the tie rod end from the spindle.


    once the tie rod is off disconnect the sway bar end links, you can even opt to remove the saw bar to give more room.


    next its time to remove the bearing assembly. there should be 3 bolts holding this on. sorry no pics since ive got the old style stuff

    now that everything else is off its time to remove the spindle.

    some people place a chain through the coil spring so that it wont fly out. you can do this if you choose to

    place a floor jack under the lower control arm and raise it up so the jack pad is snugly under the lower control arm

    once you feel you are ready start by removing the cotter keys from the upper and lower ball joints. once that is done start by removing the upper ball joint castle nut. lower the jack down SLOWLY so that the upper ball joint can seperate from the spindle. once it sepeartes, raise the jack back up and reinstall the castel nut finger tight. then lower the jack so that its 1/4" away from the lower control arm. hit the lower control arm with a BFH. this should seperate the lower ball joint. once it seperates remove both castle nuts and remove the spindle assembly. everyone has their own ways to seperate the spindle assembly, i explained my way. if you dont feel comfortable doing it that way you can try other methods. im sure the others will chime in.

    dup pic but it shows the ball joints nicly



    now that everything is apart you can remove the coil spring (if applicable) then reinstall everything.

  6. #51
    Registered User stateofidleness's Avatar
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    awesome.. im taking pics as i go for the newer stuff... im following the belltech manual and its pretty much spot on..

    i think the guy i bought the spindles from forgot to send me one of the threaded studs...... so.. i think im stuck

    ive gotten both sides up to the poitn where the upper ball joint castle nut is loosened and then needs to be hit... still have to grind the UCA down and reassemble, but i think im at a standstill now cuz i dont have that part....

    great tutorial though... very clear on the spring part (thats what im most nervous about).. whats the procedure to put the spring back in and "rejoin" everything... just jack up the floor jack?
    1998 Blazer
    I'm new to all this / bear with me.

    My Blazer Buildup: http://home.satx.rr.com/stateofidleness

    i'm a geek. plans mostly include carputing. any questions just ask.

  7. #52
    Registered User stateofidleness's Avatar
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    hey man im havin trouble with the ball joints...

    ive got both cotter pins out and both nuts are loosened

    ive tried smackin the upper with a hammer (Very hard) with the floor jack up tight and with it a 1/2" away from LCA... how hard should this be?

    is it easier to take the top or bottom off first and will the spindle actually SLIDE out of the top balljoint or will it require muscle..

    mine looks pretty similar to yours. im just not havin luck gettin either the top or bottom slide or budge... tried rubber mallet, tried a BFH and tried hittin all kinds of different places.. even the spindle... but it aint budgin.. any advice?
    1998 Blazer
    I'm new to all this / bear with me.

    My Blazer Buildup: http://home.satx.rr.com/stateofidleness

    i'm a geek. plans mostly include carputing. any questions just ask.

  8. #53
    ZQ8 Jimmy 92Jimmy's Avatar
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    Ight for all those guys out here who know how to do it, using a jack is fine but, you guys are honestly putting this guy on the line here. Dude, be on the safe side and rent or buy a spring compressor, it'll save your head, hands and many other things. after the shock is out, compress the spring, leave the bottom nut loosely on the LCA to hold the spindle up and knock the shit out of the top of the LCA. It should break the UCA loose from the top of the spindle. If not, grab a pickle fork and break it loose, it's a good time to upgrade new ball joints anyways since replacements aren't but around 15 to 20 bucks a piece. Once you have the top part of the spindle out just take the bottom nut off and whack the spindle upwards a few times. It should come off. Then just slip in the new one and go from there. Hope this helps some. -Josh
    85' Jimmy 2Dr 2WD Blown 2.8L*Sold*
    88' S-10 2Dr 2WD Blown 2.5L *Sold*
    88' Jimmy 2Dr 2WD R Code 2.8L *Daily Project*
    89' Jimmy 2dr 2WD Z Code 4.3L TBI *Parts Truck*
    92' Jimmy 4Dr 2WD W Code 4.3L Vortec *Sold*

    Quote Originally Posted by FeTTo View Post
    please tell me you just took your stupid pill before posting that :evil: :evil: :evil: :evil:

  9. #54
    Registered User stateofidleness's Avatar
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    thanks josh.

    now this may sound dumb. if im only replacing the spindles, do i really need to mess with teh shock at all?

    the belltech install sheet doesnt even mention the shock and throughout the pics it shows the shock still in place...

    do i leave the top castle nut tight when the lower one is loose? and where should i be hitting, some say spindle, some say uca "tab".. jsut not sure
    1998 Blazer
    I'm new to all this / bear with me.

    My Blazer Buildup: http://home.satx.rr.com/stateofidleness

    i'm a geek. plans mostly include carputing. any questions just ask.

  10. #55
    ZQ8 Jimmy 92Jimmy's Avatar
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    Okay, if your doing a spindle drop, just compress the spring after removing the shock (it has to be done). Then just take the top castle nut off, and swing DOWN on the TOP of the bottom control arm, this should break the top loose, then just loosely put the castle nut back on the top ball joint so it'll hold it in place, then take the bottom castle nut off and swing DOWN on the TOP of the bottom control arm again, this should break it free of the LCA. Then just hold the LCA down, unscrew the top castle nut and the spindle should slide right off. Bear with me and I'll try to help out as much as I can. -Josh
    85' Jimmy 2Dr 2WD Blown 2.8L*Sold*
    88' S-10 2Dr 2WD Blown 2.5L *Sold*
    88' Jimmy 2Dr 2WD R Code 2.8L *Daily Project*
    89' Jimmy 2dr 2WD Z Code 4.3L TBI *Parts Truck*
    92' Jimmy 4Dr 2WD W Code 4.3L Vortec *Sold*

    Quote Originally Posted by FeTTo View Post
    please tell me you just took your stupid pill before posting that :evil: :evil: :evil: :evil:

  11. #56
    has no subtitle. ColonelPanic's Avatar
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    Don't know if you want pics for the block install still, unfortuatly i did not get any pics of the install process, but follow the instructions on this thread and you'll be fine. I did take some pictures for you after i installed them that show how everything fits together pretty well. One this I would add is to soak the nuts on the factory u bolts with pb blaster or your gum cutter of choice the night before, will make taking them off much easier. in the pictures it looks likt he u bolt wisted, but it really didn't. This is the belltech 6100 2" kit. it was really simple and the hardest part is getting the old u bolts out. I'm an absolute noob and it took 2 hours for me.

    Pics:






    hope that helps
    -jeff

  12. #57
    Registered User stateofidleness's Avatar
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    got it all installed already , but thanks for the effort of postin the pics!
    did you shave your bumpstop at all or mess with the brake lines?

    i believe mine is resting on the bumpstops (i still like how it rides actually) so i dont think there is a chance of the brake line even being able to rub the frame, so do i need to worry about flipping it?
    1998 Blazer
    I'm new to all this / bear with me.

    My Blazer Buildup: http://home.satx.rr.com/stateofidleness

    i'm a geek. plans mostly include carputing. any questions just ask.

  13. #58
    has no subtitle. ColonelPanic's Avatar
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    I'm not quite at the bump stops but really close, just barely off of them. I like ow it rides as well, seems to be a smoother ride, and it handles noticably better. Only 2 inch blocks so I just left everything where it was.

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