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Thread: 98 Blazer Spindle Install

  1. #16
    I have a wheel fetish ! TRILOGY's Avatar
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    you do have the frame on jackstands ?

  2. #17
    Registered User stateofidleness's Avatar
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    yes i do.
    now stuff may be rusty or really stuck (like my hub and rotor are).. so this might be prohibiting a little bit, but ive been hittin it HARD and nothings moving... tried lowering hte jack even until it aint touching anything and nothing is moving, lower OR upper... not sure what to do...

    any recommendations on the hub/rotor separation? ive got em soaking really well in deep penetrating stuff so i guess just wait a long time?

    EDIT: here's where im at
    http://image30.webshots.com/466/3/22...tions/FullSize
    Last edited by stateofidleness; 07-07-2007 at 08:22 PM.
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  3. #18
    Smash it 4.3 zach's Avatar
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    for the balljoints, release the pressure on the lower arm (take the jack out or atleast drop it down a bit and whack the shit out of the spindle where the bj's extend through. It should only take a few good hits with a BFH.

    For the hub/rotor assembly hit the face of the rotor (between the studs, not where the brake pads come in contact unless it's being replaced) The vibration will break it loose and it should come right apart. Note that removal of the rotor is much easier if the hub assembly is still attached to the spindle and the truck.
    06 ccsb 2/5 drop, SS 20's, 370, L92 Heads, LT's/ORY, 237/242 .603/609 112, 2pc. driveshaft, 4l80e, 3500 stall, 12.8 @ 106

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  4. #19
    I have a wheel fetish ! TRILOGY's Avatar
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    see where i put the yellow dots ?
    that's where you smack the shit out of the spindle with a hammer.


  5. #20
    I have a wheel fetish ! TRILOGY's Avatar
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    Same thing here with the rotor, like zach said.


  6. #21
    long member bigdawg's Avatar
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    if smacking it has worked go get a balljoint seperater fork from autozone. cost like 15 bucks to rent one but you get it back when you take it back. as for the rotor you might try heating it then beating it loose.
    2000 Red Dime sitting low.and pretty.

  7. #22
    Registered User stateofidleness's Avatar
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    ive been convinced to just rent a spring compressor, im gonna rent the ball forks too while im there, might as well..

    it'll ease my fears and i cant get a little more hands on under there..

    does anyone have a receipt (can be from any retailer) for the belltech 2102 drop spindles??
    belltech says they'll only send me the part if i can fax or email them a receipt.. well i dont have a receipt cuz i bought them from someone on the forum...

    ill pay someone if they can work wiht me on getting that threaded stud!!
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  8. #23
    Smash it 4.3 zach's Avatar
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    Why do you need the spring compressor? just leave the jack under the control arm or if you want the pressure off the spring just lower the jack all the way down, if I remember correctly it'l swing down far enough to release pressure off the spring. Atleast the last one I did was like that requiring no spring compressor.

    And i'd stay away from the forks. Those things will tear the shit out of your balljoint boots. I have changed hundreds of balljoints at work and have never had one not separate after hitting the spindle on the points TRILOGY indicated.

    On the rotor/hub assembly You should seriously have no problems just hitting it with a hammer in the previously said places. And even if that doesnt work you can support the rotor with a couple of 2x4's under the outer part and tap on the center to push the assembly out. I wouldn't worry about heating it up its not a tight fit just a lil bit of rust holding it together.

    In your first post you said "112318 Locknut 3/8”-16 2"
    If that's the case 3/8-16 bolts/studs can be found pretty much anywhere. Lowes and TSC have the best selection of GR8 bolts for the average person around here.
    Will belltech not even sell you the pieces without a recipt? or were you trying to get them to send them for free?

    I wish I was closer i'd give you a hand with it. SA is a hike though.
    06 ccsb 2/5 drop, SS 20's, 370, L92 Heads, LT's/ORY, 237/242 .603/609 112, 2pc. driveshaft, 4l80e, 3500 stall, 12.8 @ 106

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  9. #24
    Registered User stateofidleness's Avatar
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    yea man, i think id feel safer just compressing the spring and stuff.. its not too hard and itll make me work faster lol

    and yea.. belltech wont even sell me the part!! they "do not sell directly to the public".. told me to contact the retailer i purchased them from even AFTER i told him i did not purchase them from a retailer.. i was under hte impression that belltech had like.. AMAZING support but they didnt seem to wanna help at all.... i PM'ed the guy that sold em to me and he said he didnt even use the provided studs??? im not gonna risk that..

    i emailed styling concepts to see if they could help.. i even emailed oreillys and summit for their help... i mean, i could use the stock bolt backwards, but i mean really.. i want it done right, not half-assed...

    really becoming a hassle because of one little threaded stud...
    1998 Blazer
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  10. #25
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    You're making a little too big of a deal about some nuts. All you have to do is find the right size and just about any hardware store/auto parts store should have something that will work for you. As long as you've got the cotter pin in, you should be fine.
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  11. #26
    ZQ8 Jimmy 92Jimmy's Avatar
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    BudRacing, I highly doubt you've read the entire thread. He's needing a threaded stud for the spindle not a castle nut. As for a threaded stud, try your local machine shop, maybe they can fab something up for you for a small fee. Also, if you can't find one and you can't have one made, go ahead and just reverse the stock bolt... Hope you get it done right. -Josh
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    Quote Originally Posted by FeTTo View Post
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  12. #27
    Registered User stateofidleness's Avatar
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    thanks josh, ill just wait till i can get the correct part for it...
    ive got a guy with stylin concepts tryin to help me out as we speak, awaiting to hear back from him..

    fyi
    belltech was no help
    summit was no help
    1998 Blazer
    I'm new to all this / bear with me.

    My Blazer Buildup: http://home.satx.rr.com/stateofidleness

    i'm a geek. plans mostly include carputing. any questions just ask.

  13. #28
    Registered User stateofidleness's Avatar
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    ok i got the ballfork thing... just jam it between the rubber part and the spindle and lift or hit it with a hammer or what?

    ive can see space between the rubber part and spindle on the top but the bottom aint movin... ive lowere the jack like .5" underneath it and hit it pretty hard.. is it supposed to just "drop" suddenly or will it lower itself...

    i think im just expecting a huge jolt or soemthin when they separate.. is this right? or is it a slower thing..
    im tryin to do it without using the spring compressor (which i also got today) but while i got it all loose and a jack there, i thought id give it one last shot...
    1998 Blazer
    I'm new to all this / bear with me.

    My Blazer Buildup: http://home.satx.rr.com/stateofidleness

    i'm a geek. plans mostly include carputing. any questions just ask.

  14. #29
    Smash it 4.3 zach's Avatar
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    just give the spindle a good whack with the hammer. You will know when it comes loose because you will be able to separate the spindle from the control arms with your hands. loosly thread the nuts back on the balljoints if you are afraid of it all falling/shooting off.
    06 ccsb 2/5 drop, SS 20's, 370, L92 Heads, LT's/ORY, 237/242 .603/609 112, 2pc. driveshaft, 4l80e, 3500 stall, 12.8 @ 106

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  15. #30
    Senior Member 00Blazer's Avatar
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    Anyone besides me think he could just use a 3/8 piece of all-thread cut to the desired length instead of trying to get the belltech stud?

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