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    has no subtitle. ColonelPanic's Avatar
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    EGR How-To

    Replaced my EGR Valve today, and I figured I would to quick how to on it. If it gets approval, could a mod or admin sticky it, I've seen alot threads on problems that could easily caused by this.

    This application is for the original CPI motor used in blazers and jimmys from 1992-1995 (optional for 92-94) and standard in 95. This motor was standard in Bravadas thoughout its life as far as i know. This how to could be easily applied to vacuum egr's and egrs on tbi motors and other years without much difference.


    The EGR Valve (exhaust gas recirculator) can often times get clogged up with carbon, or even just stick, causeing a horribly rough idle, stuttering or in bad cases stalling at lower rpm's. This How-To covers the ellectric EGR found on 4.3 cpi motors, but Could probably be applied to others.

    Things you need:
    A short 10mm swivel socket
    Ratchet extension (at least 12")
    Ratchet
    Some kind of grabber or magnet on a stick
    A can of 2+2 or other motor gum cutter (if not replacing the valve)
    EGR valve gasket (depends what condition yours is in)
    New EGR valve (if yours sucks and sticks constantly, possibly because of heat and age)

    This can be not fun if your motor was just running, it gets really hot in the airea you'll be working. First things first, pull off your air intake, pretty simple on 1st gens 2 wing nuts, one hose clamp and your good, on 2nd gens a little rubber clip thing, 1 hose clamp, and your good. Make sure you pull the air temp sensor wire.

    Identify the EGR valve, and disconnect the 4 pin harness from it. The valve is located just below the throttle body on bottom of the intake manifold. Notice the 2 bolts that hold it in place on either side of it.


    The easiest bolt is the passenger side one, as you can usually get your hand in there so you don't drop it. (If you do drop it or you want to prevent drops this is where the grabber or magnet on a stick come in handy). use your swivel socket to get in there and slowly break it loose (slowly so you dont break your socket or strip anything). Take it out all the way but leave your socket and extension propped in place while you grap the bolt so you don't drop it.


    Now do the same for the other bolt, but be careful this one, it's quite easy to drop if you aren't careful. I reccomend that you keep your socket propped against it while you remove the valve after the bolt is undone, so the bolt stays on the valve and you don't drop it. Its a tight pit but you can sneak the valve out without much problem right through the opening shown here.


    Now that you have the EGR valve out, take a look at the gasket. If it looks like this one, then you need a new one. Eek thats nasty.


    *SKIP THE FOLLOWING STEP IF YOU ARE SIMPLY REPLACING THE VALVE*

    Now take a look at your EGR valve. That Plunger with the torx head is what would get stuck. If its held back at all by anything, and you are re-using the valve (which in most cases is fine) use a small screwdriver or pointy thing to clear the debris and get it out of the valve. This is where the 2+2 or other gum cutter comes in. Spray down the inside of the valve with the gum cutter, and spray the corresponding holes on the intake manifold as well. This will clear them of any excess carbon buildup that may be prone to coming loose. Don't worry, these chemicals will burn off, but your truck may run like crap for a minute or two.


    If you are putting a new EGR valve in, just make sure you use a new gasket no matter how your old one looks, just to be safe.


    At this point you can pretty much follow this how-to backwards, however I will mention a few things. When putting the valve back on (either your old or new one) the trickiest part is the gasket and keeping it in place. I found putting the drivers side bolt through both and just holding the bolt carefully in place while sneakign the EGR valve back in works. When tightening, be careful not to strip it, but make sure it's on there nice and tight, i would say 10lbs or so does the trick. make sure the connector is on nice and tight, and that the wires are away from the belt which is right near there. When putting your air intake back on, don't forget the air temp snesor, I've almost forgotten to plug it back in before, also try to keep it away from the belt.

    That's pretty much it, and i hope this helps. Any comments or constructive criticism is appreciated.

    Thanks
    -jeff
    Last edited by ColonelPanic; 07-21-2007 at 10:09 PM. Reason: added application years

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