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Thread: EGR How-To

  1. #1
    has no subtitle. ColonelPanic's Avatar
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    EGR How-To

    Replaced my EGR Valve today, and I figured I would to quick how to on it. If it gets approval, could a mod or admin sticky it, I've seen alot threads on problems that could easily caused by this.

    This application is for the original CPI motor used in blazers and jimmys from 1992-1995 (optional for 92-94) and standard in 95. This motor was standard in Bravadas thoughout its life as far as i know. This how to could be easily applied to vacuum egr's and egrs on tbi motors and other years without much difference.


    The EGR Valve (exhaust gas recirculator) can often times get clogged up with carbon, or even just stick, causeing a horribly rough idle, stuttering or in bad cases stalling at lower rpm's. This How-To covers the ellectric EGR found on 4.3 cpi motors, but Could probably be applied to others.

    Things you need:
    A short 10mm swivel socket
    Ratchet extension (at least 12")
    Ratchet
    Some kind of grabber or magnet on a stick
    A can of 2+2 or other motor gum cutter (if not replacing the valve)
    EGR valve gasket (depends what condition yours is in)
    New EGR valve (if yours sucks and sticks constantly, possibly because of heat and age)

    This can be not fun if your motor was just running, it gets really hot in the airea you'll be working. First things first, pull off your air intake, pretty simple on 1st gens 2 wing nuts, one hose clamp and your good, on 2nd gens a little rubber clip thing, 1 hose clamp, and your good. Make sure you pull the air temp sensor wire.

    Identify the EGR valve, and disconnect the 4 pin harness from it. The valve is located just below the throttle body on bottom of the intake manifold. Notice the 2 bolts that hold it in place on either side of it.


    The easiest bolt is the passenger side one, as you can usually get your hand in there so you don't drop it. (If you do drop it or you want to prevent drops this is where the grabber or magnet on a stick come in handy). use your swivel socket to get in there and slowly break it loose (slowly so you dont break your socket or strip anything). Take it out all the way but leave your socket and extension propped in place while you grap the bolt so you don't drop it.


    Now do the same for the other bolt, but be careful this one, it's quite easy to drop if you aren't careful. I reccomend that you keep your socket propped against it while you remove the valve after the bolt is undone, so the bolt stays on the valve and you don't drop it. Its a tight pit but you can sneak the valve out without much problem right through the opening shown here.


    Now that you have the EGR valve out, take a look at the gasket. If it looks like this one, then you need a new one. Eek thats nasty.


    *SKIP THE FOLLOWING STEP IF YOU ARE SIMPLY REPLACING THE VALVE*

    Now take a look at your EGR valve. That Plunger with the torx head is what would get stuck. If its held back at all by anything, and you are re-using the valve (which in most cases is fine) use a small screwdriver or pointy thing to clear the debris and get it out of the valve. This is where the 2+2 or other gum cutter comes in. Spray down the inside of the valve with the gum cutter, and spray the corresponding holes on the intake manifold as well. This will clear them of any excess carbon buildup that may be prone to coming loose. Don't worry, these chemicals will burn off, but your truck may run like crap for a minute or two.


    If you are putting a new EGR valve in, just make sure you use a new gasket no matter how your old one looks, just to be safe.


    At this point you can pretty much follow this how-to backwards, however I will mention a few things. When putting the valve back on (either your old or new one) the trickiest part is the gasket and keeping it in place. I found putting the drivers side bolt through both and just holding the bolt carefully in place while sneakign the EGR valve back in works. When tightening, be careful not to strip it, but make sure it's on there nice and tight, i would say 10lbs or so does the trick. make sure the connector is on nice and tight, and that the wires are away from the belt which is right near there. When putting your air intake back on, don't forget the air temp snesor, I've almost forgotten to plug it back in before, also try to keep it away from the belt.

    That's pretty much it, and i hope this helps. Any comments or constructive criticism is appreciated.

    Thanks
    -jeff
    Last edited by ColonelPanic; 07-21-2007 at 10:09 PM. Reason: added application years

  2. #2
    ls1+t56+01=love low86blazer's Avatar
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    Another thing is they make gaskets with screens that will prevent heavy carbon from getting into the EGR.
    Quote Originally Posted by bayhustle81 View Post
    can i add the vortec to this 4.3 if it didnt come with one?
    Quote Originally Posted by Superbee View Post

  3. #3
    YeeHaw
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    Awesome tutorial I just have two quick questions....

    1. Is there a DTC for this? (trouble code)
    2. Could this hinder your mpg's at all as well?

    Im trying to get to the bottom of my horrible mpgs but im not lit up for 02 sensors or anything like that, everything else ive replaced...this sounds like it just might be my problem....


    Also if it matters, I have the 2nd gen cpi (96+) 4.3
    Last edited by BiGcHeVy; 12-05-2007 at 05:22 PM.
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  4. #4
    5.7L VORTEC 350 blazin4low's Avatar
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    there is a code for the EGR, and not sure about mpg....hell i get 20mpg highway and around 17-19 around town and it didn't change after i took the EGR off
    http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t114/VortecBlazer/sidredo.jpg
    Tuned by Bland Tuning
    Transmission built by Transbuilderguy on FSC!
    Marine Intake swap by me

  5. #5
    has no subtitle. ColonelPanic's Avatar
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    I beleive there is a code for it, but im not sure what it is.
    A quick google search showed "P1404" for OBDII systems.
    I found this guide, it may be helpful: http://www.troublecodes.net/GM/
    If your motor is running like crap, yes. A stuck EGR usually causes for a lot of problems at idle (running rough, rich, and stalling), and possibly rough running overall.. If the valve is stuck open the computer does compensate often times by dumping more fuel in. I'm not sure if the 96+ 4.3's have problems with egr's much, but its worth a shot.

  6. #6
    5.7L VORTEC 350 blazin4low's Avatar
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    that's why mine smells of raw fuel......no egr....ha and i thought it was the RRs, but after my 0411 pcm swap i will get it tuned out
    http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t114/VortecBlazer/sidredo.jpg
    Tuned by Bland Tuning
    Transmission built by Transbuilderguy on FSC!
    Marine Intake swap by me

  7. #7
    IlluSive XpecTaionS l1ld3v1lrydr's Avatar
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    i had to clean mine out on my white one i just got from ohio, ran fine all the way home then after it sat for a few hrs, jumped in it to leave... check engine light came one and was running like shit... next day i took it off, took some 2+2 and some compressed air and blew the valve out, and took a vacumn cleaner and sucked the carbon out of the hole on the intake manifold. been running fine ever since
    :tongue: w1shf00l th1nk1n' :boink:

    4 door love... or... love-in the 4 door... :bigthumb:



  8. #8
    Hustle By Any Means UnfinishedBusin's Avatar
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    im going to make life possibly one step easier if nobody minds....

    on the picture where it shows you using the wobble and extension going in from the top on the passanger side bolt.... use a 6" extension instead, take the ratchet off and go straight in from the fan (turn the fan so you have the large gap between blades right there) and go UNDER the idler pulley arm, there is a triangle shaped gap right there specifically for this application so you can go straight in and once its on the bolt then you can attach your ratchet and break it loose. if you do happen to drop it, no biggy, its not going anywhere but right there on your intake, and if all else fails, shake your truck and it'll fall to the floor (thats coming from experience!!!) LOL

    I'm going out to do mine here in a bit and I'll take a picture of it to add...

  9. #9
    Registered User
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    Yup I found that when I pulled mine off. Makes it alot easier

  10. #10
    Hustle By Any Means UnfinishedBusin's Avatar
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    don't want to steal anyone's thunder here but I just did mine and put the screen gasket on it so I thought I would update with some pictures for those that need it.... this is going to be a VERY brief how-to... lol

    remove the intake tube


    i remove the entire intake box w/filter to make it easier (it just slides out)


    box out



    This is where i slide the 10mm socket with extension UNDER the tensioner pulley.. there is a small gap where the extension fits. DO NOT HAVE THE RATCHET ATTACHED TO THE EXTENSION OR IT WON'T FIT BETWEEN THE FAN SHROUD AND THE HOLE...


    no wobble needed if you go this way... disregard the 11mm... its suppose to be a 10 but i didn't realize i grabbed the wrong one until after it was already in there and spinning around..... IT IS A 10MM THOUGH


    once it's in and on the bolt, you can see how it clears the fan shroud for your ratchet to finally go on



    either replacing or just cleaning and putting a new gasket on, i always take the gasket off and put some super glue on it... super glue don't hold to metal to well but its perfect, it holds it on for you to fight with getting it in there, but it will come off easy with a scraper next time you need it too. on this one i finally put the gasket with the screen on!



    hope this helps someone out. again sorry if i hored up the thread with my posts.. just showing another way of doing it incase someone doesn't have that $8 wobble... thats how i learned how to do it cause I didn't have the wobble....
    Last edited by UnfinishedBusin; 01-31-2010 at 06:11 PM.

  11. #11
    has no subtitle. ColonelPanic's Avatar
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    Rather than superglue, I've found that permatex (the RTV silicone company) makes a spray on mild adhesive for gaskets- works awesome for just abotu any gasket I've used it on.

  12. #12
    Hustle By Any Means UnfinishedBusin's Avatar
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    ive heard of that too... just super glue is more of an "available in most homes" type application, that's why i use it, cause i have tons of it, i tried to make this for people that just have a $25 tool kit from wal-mart and supplies you can find at home...

    how well does that stuff come off when you take off the gasket to replace when cleaning?

  13. #13
    has no subtitle. ColonelPanic's Avatar
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    No idea honestly, never needed to take anything back off- it works like contact cement, so I assume its just tacky and would peel off.

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