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Thread: Distributor Replacement Removal Procedure

  1. #16
    5.7L VORTEC 350 blazin4low's Avatar
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    timing chain as stated above
    http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t114/VortecBlazer/sidredo.jpg
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  2. #17
    My S-10 fleet is gone... s10blazed's Avatar
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    Well what would you guys check next?

    I plan on triple checking the distributor is in right. Assuming that it is, what then?

    What am I looking for if I pull off the timing chain cover? Is here any way to test if it has been stretched?

    If the timing is only out a few degrees I will try to open up the hold down hole and adjust it that way.

  3. #18
    Zombie Killer 6SpeedBlazer's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by s10blazed View Post
    Well what would you guys check next?

    I plan on triple checking the distributor is in right. Assuming that it is, what then?

    What am I looking for if I pull off the timing chain cover? Is here any way to test if it has been stretched?

    If the timing is only out a few degrees I will try to open up the hold down hole and adjust it that way.
    4.3L's have a timing chain tensioner so i would doubt its the chain.

    i would be more apt to say that its variances in manufacturing that are throwing off tolerances.

  4. #19
    My S-10 fleet is gone... s10blazed's Avatar
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    I got my own scantool so I could check the timing and adjust it myself.

    My timing varied a bit as it sat at idle. It hovered right about +19 but I saw it as low as 18.5 and as high as 22. I guess that covers the +/- 3 there.

    Anyone know off the top of their head if I need to turn mine clockwise or counter clockwise?

  5. #20
    Zombie Killer 6SpeedBlazer's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by s10blazed View Post
    I got my own scantool so I could check the timing and adjust it myself.

    My timing varied a bit as it sat at idle. It hovered right about +19 but I saw it as low as 18.5 and as high as 22. I guess that covers the +/- 3 there.

    Anyone know off the top of their head if I need to turn mine clockwise or counter clockwise?
    you should be looking at the crank sensor/cam sensor correlation value. scanners list this as CAM RETARD.

    this has nothing to do with engine timing.......
    Last edited by 6SpeedBlazer; 12-08-2010 at 10:51 AM.

  6. #21
    My S-10 fleet is gone... s10blazed's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 6SpeedBlazer View Post
    you should be looking at the crank sensor/cam sensor correlation value. scanners list this as CAM RETARD.

    this has nothing to do with engine timing.......
    Oh. Well I hope my software has that easily available.

  7. #22
    Zombie Killer 6SpeedBlazer's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by s10blazed View Post
    Oh. Well I hope my software has that easily available.
    what are you using to view the live data stream?

  8. #23
    My S-10 fleet is gone... s10blazed's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 6SpeedBlazer View Post
    what are you using to view the live data stream?
    OBDwiz. It was a free program that came with the scantool.

    Any that you recommend? I might be able to find an 'online discount' or if its cheap enough just snag it. I also have one for my phone called Torque, but I haven't tried it yet.

  9. #24
    Zombie Killer 6SpeedBlazer's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by s10blazed View Post
    OBDwiz. It was a free program that came with the scantool.

    Any that you recommend? I might be able to find an 'online discount' or if its cheap enough just snag it. I also have one for my phone called Torque, but I haven't tried it yet.
    im not familiar with any of those.

    i have used a techII and efi live to look at cam retard.

  10. #25
    My S-10 fleet is gone... s10blazed's Avatar
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    Well I got another software package to read the extended data. It has a free trial available that will let you open a recorded log file. I have one of my drive to the video store if anyone wants to take a look.

    The ignition timing is still the same but I found the value for the CAM RETARD. It was an average of -25.8 without much deviation at all.



    I'm just trying to get the motivation to freeze my nuts off to make some adjustments.

  11. #26
    Zombie Killer 6SpeedBlazer's Avatar
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    sounds to me like your a tooth off since the vortec stuff isnt adjustable.

    a circle is 360* and there are 13 teeth on a drive gear if i remember right.

    thats about 27* between teeth. that means your about a tooth off.


    edit. on my vortec 5.7L i left the distributor hold down bolt loose one time and the truck ran like dick, surged like crazy, threw multiple rich codes, missfires and hard a hard time starting. the distributor torqued all the way until it hit the upper plenum. I was seeing about 25* of retard when this happened.

    I reset the distributor to zero and it runs like a top.
    Last edited by 6SpeedBlazer; 12-14-2010 at 03:39 PM.

  12. #27
    My S-10 fleet is gone... s10blazed's Avatar
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    I was thinking about it being a tooth off also. It just seems odd to me because it runs so well. When I move it a tooth in either direction is either A. Doesn't run at all. or B. Chugs and backfires like crazy just barely holding on to a running state.

    From a source referring to a comparible V8, it states to turn it counter clockwise to correct a negative cam retard. I will move it one tooth counter clock wise and let the ECU reset.

    There is also a relearn procedure - anyone know what/how it calibrates/resets itself?

    My hold down is tight. The stock bolt was actually too long for the Summit dist. The hold down must of been significantly thinner because I could torque the bolt down all the way until it bottomed out and the hold down would wiggle. I trimmed the bolt and it holds it very snug now.
    Last edited by s10blazed; 12-14-2010 at 03:46 PM.

  13. #28
    Zombie Killer 6SpeedBlazer's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by s10blazed View Post
    I was thinking about it being a tooth off also. It just seems odd to me because it runs so well. When I move it a tooth in either direction is either A. Doesn't run at all. or B. Chugs and backfires like crazy just barely holding on to a running state.

    From a source referring to a comparible V8, it states to turn it counter clockwise to correct a negative cam retard. I will move it one tooth counter clock wise and let the ECU reset.

    There is also a relearn procedure - anyone know what/how it calibrates/resets itself?

    My hold down is tight. The stock bolt was actually too long for the Summit dist. The hold down must of been significantly thinner because I could torque the bolt down all the way until it bottomed out and the hold down would wiggle. I trimmed the bolt and it holds it very snug now.
    i have never heard of a relearn procedure. i don't even know what the PCM would need to "relearn"

  14. #29
    My S-10 fleet is gone... s10blazed's Avatar
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    The whole term is CASE relearn. A quick search and I have this explanation of when to do it and how to do it with a tech2.

    http://forums.trailvoy.com/showthread.php?t=23968

    Although I can't even do this procedure until my cam retard is correct. Also explains why my buddy's Snap-On tool canceled out each time we tried it.

  15. #30
    Zombie Killer 6SpeedBlazer's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by s10blazed View Post
    The whole term is CASE relearn. A quick search and I have this explanation of when to do it and how to do it with a tech2.

    http://forums.trailvoy.com/showthread.php?t=23968

    Although I can't even do this procedure until my cam retard is correct. Also explains why my buddy's Snap-On tool canceled out each time we tried it.
    a CASE relearn has absolutely nothing to do with this situation.

    CASE stands for Crank Angle Sensor Error.

    The case relearn is mean to "relearn" the Crank reluctor wheel to the PCM.

    due to variations in manufacturing and machining the crank sensor and the crank reluctor wheel can vary by different amounts. the ONLY time you need to do a CASE relearn is when you change the pcm or the pickup wheel behind the timing cover.

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