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Thread: How do you flip brakes

  1. #1
    Hustle By Any Means UnfinishedBusin's Avatar
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    so how do you flip the brakes? and can you do this with a 2/3 drop.... oh and last question, how can you tell what drop you have? i know i can measure the drop on the rear cause there is a block between the leaf and axle, but how can i tell what size drop this guy did on the front?

    p.s. i bought it like this...

  2. #2
    v6 yes, 4.3 no neo71665's Avatar
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    um why are you flipping the brakes?
    stock-87 blazer tahoe 2 door, 3.4, auto, 4x4

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  3. #3
    Registered User flnole78's Avatar
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    You flip the rear calipers so they don't hit the frame. I haven't heard of this being done on a static drop but I had to do it on mine when I bagged it.

    What you do it take the rear differential cover off and I can't remember exactly how to do this but there are a couple of bolts and pins in there that you have to remove in order to rmove the clip that holds the axle shafts in. Make sure you don't have your wheels on still. Once you get the clips out, slide out the axles, then you can remove the caliper brackets. Now you can switch them to the opposite side and slide the axle shafts back in and reassemble. Make sure you don't move anything else in the rear diff and make sure you keep everything clean and free of dirt. It took me a pair of tweezers to remove the c-clips. You will also need new fluid and a new gasket for the diff cover. I wouldn't do this unless your calipers are actually hitting b/c its a pain.

    As for the drop, just find a stock version of your truck in town and measure the front from the ground to the top of the inner wheel well. Then do the exact same to yours and subtract the 2 numbers. That will give you the amount of your drop.
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  4. #4
    v6 yes, 4.3 no neo71665's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by flnole78 View Post
    You flip the rear calipers so they don't hit the frame. I haven't heard of this being done on a static drop but I had to do it on mine when I bagged it.

    I'm aware of that, and his being a static is why I asked.
    stock-87 blazer tahoe 2 door, 3.4, auto, 4x4

    inside- All LEDs, overhead console, white faced gauges, smoothed panels, Camo cloth, radio and speakers, keyless entry

    outside- 1/2 lift, 3 inch bl, clears, H4 conv headlights, Euro red tails, all LEDs

    motor- 2.8 fiero valve covers, headers, flowmaster 40, 10 in chrome edelbrock cleaner with K&N, silicone vacuum hoses

  5. #5
    ls1+t56+01=love low86blazer's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by neo71665 View Post
    I'm aware of that, and his being a static is why I asked.
    actually with a 5-6inch drop in the rear the caliper mounting bolts do hit, some just notch for them but the caliper flip is the easiest.

    But he doesnt even have calipers in the rear if hes doing this to the 95 listed in his profile.


    The only other flip i think hes talking about is the front brake line hoses you just turn them 180 so they dont kink.
    Quote Originally Posted by bayhustle81 View Post
    can i add the vortec to this 4.3 if it didnt come with one?
    Quote Originally Posted by Superbee View Post

  6. #6
    5.7L VORTEC 350 blazin4low's Avatar
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    So I should be good with a 4" drop when I swap to a newer rear axle with discs? or do I need to flip my calipers? I hear removing the bump stop mounting brackets should fix the caliper clearance issues
    http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t114/VortecBlazer/sidredo.jpg
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  7. #7
    your all sick with sin
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    i wish i had rear disc brakes then my rims would match thefront ones covered in break dust

  8. #8
    Registered User suncad03's Avatar
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    with a sd notch for the blazers and more then a 4" you will need to flip them or grind the crap out of the notch. there is a thick flange on them. i built mine and with the 5" drop in the rear it was to close for me so i flipped mine. i have done 2 blazers with the sd notch because they already had it. so i flipped the calipers to clear. it's fast and easy to do but you do lose your e-brake and you have to bleed the brakes. you need to turn the lines 180deg's if you do anything over a 2" drop to keep the lines from kinking on the frame rail. so if they are already off just flip the brackets and install new seals then call it a day

  9. #9
    ls1+t56+01=love low86blazer's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by skanN86 View Post
    i wish i had rear disc brakes then my rims would match thefront ones covered in break dust
    get decent pads and you wont have that problem.
    Quote Originally Posted by bayhustle81 View Post
    can i add the vortec to this 4.3 if it didnt come with one?
    Quote Originally Posted by Superbee View Post

  10. #10
    Hustle By Any Means UnfinishedBusin's Avatar
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    i was def. more concerned about the front brakes... but it was good to know about the rears. I bought the truck the way it is and the guy that did it (well lets just say i'm kinda concerned about the well being of the poor truck) so that's why i joined up on here, so I can get as much info as possible about this exact kinda stuff to make sure that all is good.... plus i really really want to bag it... i would love nothing more than to lay out on the highway but yet have enough lift to get me through the shit weather we've had here in oklahoma last couple weeks!

    and yes it's on the poor 95 in my profile, same one as whats in my pic.... poor thing has been to hell and back behind my RV... my pic is the engine bay PACKED with snow from my trip back from home in nebraska down here to oklahoma.. had to pour a crap ton of hot water on it to melt the snow so it would turn over, everything was packed and frozen solid!! Now i'm just trying to get things taken care of that have been let go for some time now from the previous owner and from it being pulled behind the RV

    THANKS FOR ALL THE GREAT INFORMATION GUYS! PRECIATE THE HELP!

    now i get to go check my ball joints cause i got some serious shakin in the wheel!!
    Last edited by UnfinishedBusin; 02-07-2010 at 03:30 PM.

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