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Thread: 89 blazer 2wd drop, need help, $ no object

  1. #1
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    89 blazer 2wd drop, need help, $ no object

    another noob here needing some assistance. i want to lower my 89 2wd 2dr 4.3l blazer. i've been saving for a while so money is not really an obsticle. please help me with any and all advice. i want it dropped about 4" or 5", and i like a VERY slight rake. i am planning on buy the energy master bushing kit and replacing all my bushings during the drop. i was also planning on adding a rear sway bar. any and all suggestions are appreciated. the end goals is having as low and tight a blazer as apossible. thanks

  2. #2
    Doesnt look like this supernova's Avatar
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    id go 5 front and rear, zq8 sway bar in the front and aftermarket in the rear. Bolt in notch for the rear. So that would be 2 inch drop spindles with 3 inch drop coil springs for the front, and 3 inch drop leafs with 2 inch blocks for the rear. that should give a little bit of rake and with the notch in the rear the best ride quality. ALso for the front you should consider a coil over kit, this will give you little more adjustability with ride height in the front and better shocks than the standard "lower" shock offered

  3. #3
    Blazin no mo Forklift's Avatar
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    I loved my 5 4 drop!
    2" spindles
    3" coils

    4" blocks in the rear
    plus shocks
    04 EC Silverado 4.8L,Pioneer, Rockford Fosgate, K&N, Viper, ACT, USSpeedo, Matrix, Whelen, Blackbear, 22" Eagles, Nittos,Russel,Magnaflow
    85 S-15 2.5L/4spd, RF P1 subs, highs & T4004, JL 250/1, SD 4-link, AIM LCAs, 1/2 valves, Blazer interior, 17" Eagles w/BFGs, phantom grill, 140 amp alt

  4. #4
    Registered User wagonmaster's Avatar
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    I did the ES bushings....they squeek quite a bit when it's even slightly humid out...I'd go with the harder durometer moog bushings, or the aftermarket del aluminum ones. http://www.globalwest.net/1982-02s10...lazer-2wd.html

    You might want to check out my truck...I have done pretty much what you want.

    http://www.blazinlow.com/forum/showthread.php?t=75664

    Last edited by wagonmaster; 12-17-2010 at 03:41 PM.

  5. #5
    Registered User staticblazer89's Avatar
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    I have 5/5 drop on my 4dr 93. Im running 2in spindles with 3in coils in the front and im running a 3in lowered leaf and a 2in block. Im also running the bolt in c-notch from SD with Nitrodrop shocks...This truck rides like an effin cadillac...except with the notch you have sooo much suspension travel in the rear your driveshaft will rub on your cross member..other then that its awesome.
    "One Life, One Chance"

  6. #6
    Registered User wagonmaster's Avatar
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    626sheperd, I replied to your message, but heres the same info.

    I didn't notch anything in the front. The rear has a notch, it's about three inches and definitely necessary, you'll have no suspension travel otherwise.
    When you do the bushings, add a grease fitting to you can lube the bushings. Just drill thru the arm and bushing before you put the inner metal sleeve in. That way, WHEN it does start to squeek you can hopefully grease it. Use all of that whale sperm stuff (or whatever that grease ES includes), because it works. I live in Tucson, AZ, no humidity here either, but when it rains (it happens...) they squeek like a mofo. I do like how much better the front end feels, you may as well change out balljoints while you're at it, they're cheap. Take a really good look at your steering too, now's the time to replace stuff before you go for your alighnment.The front really is four inches....two from the spindles, two from the springs. I think you will have to play with blocks in the rear to get the rake you want, that's what I did. Mine is slightly raked on an empty gas tank, level when it's full. BTW, the belltech rear leafs are rubber bushings, but seem to be harder than stock.

    Any questions, feel free to ask. I should have taken more pictures and done a write up when I was building mine, but oh well....

    Lance

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    if i only to a 4" drop in the rear (3 " leafs, 1" blocks), do i still need the bolt in c-notch? i don't no anything about c-notches, but it seems they would reduce some of the frame's strength and rigidity... i want my truck to be as tight and handle as good as possible.

  8. #8
    BANG! BANG! VROOOOM! theKILLSHOT!'s Avatar
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    no the notch doesn't make the frame any weaker or all of theese guys wouldn't be using them on their daily drivers I'm not sure how low you can go without it but I say just go for it and because i've had a problem with my blocks before I tell everyone to check their blocks often and inspect for cracks or breaks (this is not typical just happens from time to time so I figured I'd warn you
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  9. #9
    Zombie Killer 6SpeedBlazer's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by supernova View Post
    id go 5 front and rear, zq8 sway bar in the front and aftermarket in the rear. Bolt in notch for the rear. So that would be 2 inch drop spindles with 3 inch drop coil springs for the front, and 3 inch drop leafs with 2 inch blocks for the rear. that should give a little bit of rake and with the notch in the rear the best ride quality. ALso for the front you should consider a coil over kit, this will give you little more adjustability with ride height in the front and better shocks than the standard "lower" shock offered
    i agree with everything accept the aftermarket rear sway bar.

    For the price you can get a used oem sway bar for its worth it.

  10. #10
    Doesnt look like this supernova's Avatar
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    i forgot about 2nd gen blazers have rear sway bars, so yes, you can get a stock 2door 2nd gen sway bar and be done with it

  11. #11
    Registered User wagonmaster's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 626shepherd View Post
    if i only to a 4" drop in the rear (3 " leafs, 1" blocks), do i still need the bolt in c-notch? i don't no anything about c-notches, but it seems they would reduce some of the frame's strength and rigidity... i want my truck to be as tight and handle as good as possible.
    You're still going to want the notch. Mine is welded in, because my bolt in notch from AIM sucked. You can weld in any bolt in notch too, just for added strength and peace of mind. If anything the frame is stronger with the notch.

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