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Thread: static drop, rough ride?

  1. #16
    Solvd31 solvd31's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by bigjsp View Post
    It needs to be equal to or greater than the distance to your frame. Based on you des riptions it sounds like the shocks are working properly but your expectations of a major static drop ride quality don't match reality
    yeah i can understand being a rough ride but when the bumps were in it was ridiculous. now they are out and its just wierd that it is that low that all i hear is clanking on the frame. i thought the shocks would absorb some of that? Should i be cocerned that something is going to break? i have about 8 months with the the drop and bumps now about a day without them and it just sounds really bad like something would break. I wanted to be low because i think it looks great but just the inch lower than i had on my last blaze made a world of difference in the ride.

  2. #17
    Senior Member blazinmt's Avatar
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    That bolt in c-notch will make a difference in the back. It will give you that much more travel. It's stupid easy to put in to boot. Why are you against the c-notch?
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  3. #18
    Registered User wagonmaster's Avatar
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    If you keep hitting axle to frame you are going to do some serious damage to your axle. You have no suspension travel left. No matter what shock is on there won't cure that.
    Honestly, just do the bolt in notch. Makes a world of difference, and you won't lose any frame strength.

  4. #19
    Registered User dragnblazer's Avatar
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    that bolt in notch will help alot.
    My project thread 89 bagged 2door
    http://www.blazinlow.com/forum/showthread.php?t=68023

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  5. #20
    Solvd31 solvd31's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by blazinmt View Post
    That bolt in c-notch will make a difference in the back. It will give you that much more travel. It's stupid easy to put in to boot. Why are you against the c-notch?
    Im not really against the c notch. i honestly just dont want to cut the floorboards out in the c=back for it. im thinking im going to take it back up an inch in the rear and see what that does. will still sit low and give me a nice little rake as well.
    I we for a drive today and if im on a road with minor bumos it rides great. as soon as i hit something its just crazy. you can feel the frame/axle hitting. my kid says it sounds like popcorn its so fast.
    thanks guys!

  6. #21
    Senior Member blazinmt's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by solvd31 View Post
    Im not really against the c notch. i honestly just dont want to cut the floorboards out in the c=back for it. im thinking im going to take it back up an inch in the rear and see what that does. will still sit low and give me a nice little rake as well.
    I we for a drive today and if im on a road with minor bumos it rides great. as soon as i hit something its just crazy. you can feel the frame/axle hitting. my kid says it sounds like popcorn its so fast.
    thanks guys!
    I think you are confusing a c-notch with a step notch. You don't have to cut anything other than the frame for a c-notch. The c-notch just notches a bit out of your frame to give you a couple inches.

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  7. #22
    Registered User dragnblazer's Avatar
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    yes with the bolt in you dont need to remove the floor.

    http://qualityairride.com/notches/blazer-bolt-c-notch
    My project thread 89 bagged 2door
    http://www.blazinlow.com/forum/showthread.php?t=68023

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  8. #23
    Solvd31 solvd31's Avatar
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    Well your right i was confusing the two. that does help and i guess not real expensive. I might have to try that. I am bidding on some blocks on ebay to go back up an inch in the rear. with the weight i have back there with my stereo as well it puts some more sag on the suspension so i think it will still look ok. Maybe i will snag the cnotc anyway and try it out.
    Any suggestion if the front is hitting now that i took the bumps out as well? i cant tell if it is hitting or its just the rear?

    Thanks for everyones help!! i thought i was pretty knowledgable withy this stuff but i guess not! Now i am actually looking at selling it once i get this figured out. Found something i have wanted for a long time!

  9. #24
    Solvd31 solvd31's Avatar
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    [Any suggestion if the front is hitting now that i took the bumps out as well? i cant tell if it is hitting or its just the rear?

    Thanks for everyones help!! i thought i was pretty knowledgable withy this stuff but i guess not! Now i am actually looking at selling it once i get this figured out. Found something i have wanted for a long time![/QUOTE]

    Hopefully this thread hasnt expired and nobody else has any thoughts. i have been reading almost every thread i can find in regards to the drops peopkle have and what they have done to correct issues. i still cant get a real clear oicture of what to do. with the drop i put on and the shocks i thought iwas going to be all good but it turns out i ride like crap.

    I went with 2" drop leafs in back with 3" blocks and 2 inch spindles with 2-3 " coils in front. i like the way it looks right now although it seems to sag a little mor einn the rear than i like. i think i need to go ahead and do a notch and possibly better shocks because it just rides horrible. i ubderstand that a lowered ride is going to ride like shit but i think this one is to the extreme. ive never been in one like this before that rides so horrible.

    So i guess my next step is a notch in the back and going with a 2" block instead of the 3 so when i put the weight in the back from my box it will take the sag and level me out some.

    any recomendations on shocks? i went with Toxic because they were cheap. well i guess you get what you pay for because they suck!!

    should i be concerend that i took the fromt bumps out? I cant tell if the frame is hitting there or just in the rear.? i have to pretty much drive at 25 mph or less on soe roads just because it feels like my truck is going to fall apart. frame on frame all day. but some roads i can go on right now and cruise at 40 and it feels ok. so i just dont get it.

    i think i get this stuff fixed and see ifi can sell. im getting to old for this stuff and just need to gop back to driving regular cars where i dont have this trouble. so if anyine is interested in this thing hit me up. looking to sell right away!

    THANKS!

  10. #25
    I'm BATMAN! Harley's Avatar
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    I'd go back with your stock xtreme leaves if you have them, personally, and run the 3" block. I have only heard that the drop leaves out there are really soft compared to OEM and if you plan on putting extra weight back there you will want the capacity the OEM xtreme leaves provide. Up front you may want to dehump the control arms to get more clearance. Either that or go back to a taller spring because with a 3" you don't have much clearance between the control arm and frame. Again the 1.5" drop from the stock xtreme spring is a good choice. That would also let you run stock shocks front and back which are good quality shocks made by bilstein.

    That would put you 2"/3" lower than the factory xtreme which is 3.5"/4.5" shorter than other Blazers. To be honest, lower than that is doable, but it is pushing the limits of the suspension, so ride and handling will suffer.
    Last edited by Harley; 06-24-2011 at 10:51 AM.
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  11. #26
    5.7L VORTEC 350 blazin4low's Avatar
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    the big problem with the drop leafs is that most only have two leafs, that may work on a truck with no weight in the bed, but on a blazer that doesn't work.

    just look at a picture of the ZQ8 leafs and a drop leaf and see how the ZQ8s still have an arch to allow travel and weight compensation, but drop leafs are pretty much flat with no arch so you lose weight travel compensation.
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  12. #27
    Registered User wagonmaster's Avatar
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    I took the bottm leaf off of my belltech springs and put the OEM overload leaf on. It actually went a little lower, but it's stiffer. Maybe just add the overload to your springs?

    As for the front, you need to dehump the control arms to get some travel back. I wouldn't drive without some bumpstops....do you have the pancake ones for the front?

    As far as shocks, I'm really happy with my Bilsteins.

  13. #28
    5.7L VORTEC 350 blazin4low's Avatar
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    that's a good point about the overload spring, I don't think most lowering leafs even have them
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  14. #29
    Senior Member 00Blazer's Avatar
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    I had the Belltech leafs and 3" blocks, trimmed the bumpstops, and had Bilstein shocks. Even with the huge sub box and 2 Kicker L7 15's i never bottomed out. It rode pretty good for a lowered ride.

  15. #30
    Solvd31 solvd31's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 00Blazer View Post
    I had the Belltech leafs and 3" blocks, trimmed the bumpstops, and had Bilstein shocks. Even with the huge sub box and 2 Kicker L7 15's i never bottomed out. It rode pretty good for a lowered ride.
    well thats good to hear. i really wish i would have gotten this information sooner. I think i will try the factory leaf or maybe different shocks. i had the bilstein in it before i cut the bumps then went to toxic and i hate them. Maybe i should have stayed with them and just cut the bumps.

    i really appreciate all the help. hopefully the funds and the time will come for me to finish this thing. i noticed for some reason today if i cruise at 50-65 it seems to ride ok and i hardly bottom out. its when im going slow through town i have all the problems.

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