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Thread: Setting the rear axle back

  1. #1
    Registered User wagonmaster's Avatar
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    Setting the rear axle back

    So, I know the Jags That Run make rear axle set back plates. I never really noticed that until somebody else posted it. And now it bugs me. So, rather than lower the back of the truck another 3/8" and pay $22 plus shipping, I just did this.

    Original position


    Target in site


    Axle spring perch with hole drilled 1/2' further forward


    Back together


    As it sits now



    As an added bonus it clears the exhaust when I bottom out now. This took all of about three hours to do, and the wheel in now centered in the wheel well.

    Lance

  2. #2
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    Good job. You could have also welded on a thick washer around the new hole to make it stronger but with the clamping force of the u-bolts i wouldnt think you would have an issue.


    89' S10 blazer 4wd: 355, 650 dp, rpm intake, comp 282 roller cam, modified vortecs, T56 Six speed, 8.8 ls rear, headers, x-pipe, spintech pro street mufflers, and......AC

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  3. #3
    Zombie Killer 6SpeedBlazer's Avatar
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    just make sure that the tire does not contact the rear of the wheel well when the suspension articulates.

    the reason gm set the axle forward is because when the spring compresses it moves the whole axle rearward.

  4. #4
    Registered User wagonmaster's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 6SpeedBlazer View Post
    just make sure that the tire does not contact the rear of the wheel well when the suspension articulates.

    the reason gm set the axle forward is because when the spring compresses it moves the whole axle rearward.
    I don't think that will be a problem, the leaf is flat at ride height. Therefore, it will never go further backward because it's already as far back as it can go. Besides, I have all of about two inches of travel back there.
    Last edited by wagonmaster; 04-09-2011 at 08:46 PM.

  5. #5
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    i dont think gm set the axle forward, no?. just a byproduct of lowering.


    89' S10 blazer 4wd: 355, 650 dp, rpm intake, comp 282 roller cam, modified vortecs, T56 Six speed, 8.8 ls rear, headers, x-pipe, spintech pro street mufflers, and......AC

    Blazer burnout video - http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sP7iLypoDI4

  6. #6
    chiefron Ron Christensen's Avatar
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    If you don't want to lay on your back and drill your spring mount pads. You can also just re- drill your main leaf thru bolt hole. To center my wheels, needed nearly 3/4". Local spring companies can provide replacement bolts.

  7. #7
    AIR RIDE EQUIPPED DavesterJr's Avatar
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    I never thought about this. I might have to do it until I can get the rear actually bagged and 4 linked, which will be a pretty good ways down the road right now. Simple and quick solution.

  8. #8
    Gotta Love Stepshavers Sonomaguy's Avatar
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    Did you weld the original hole shut or something? There looks to be a pretty weak point there between the 2 holes. Wouldn't want it vibrating around any. Looks like a good idea though.
    2003 Sonoma Ext Cab, ZQ8 suspension package. Billet antenna. TYC taillights. LoRider tonneau. Sylvania Silverstars. K & N FIPK.

  9. #9
    5.7L VORTEC 350 blazin4low's Avatar
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    good idea.......when the set back plates were brought to my attention I measured my wheels and they seemed to be center. Only thing I could think of was I had just put a set of 2" lowering leafs on and they were some RARE eibach leafs that were only made for a couple years. I figured eibach corrected the set back issue.
    http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t114/VortecBlazer/sidredo.jpg
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  10. #10
    Registered User wagonmaster's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ron Christensen View Post
    If you don't want to lay on your back and drill your spring mount pads. You can also just re- drill your main leaf thru bolt hole. To center my wheels, needed nearly 3/4". Local spring companies can provide replacement bolts.
    Thought about that....but drilling thru one layer of metal was bad enough, Drilling thru two or three leafs would be a bitch.

    Quote Originally Posted by Sonomaguy View Post
    Did you weld the original hole shut or something? There looks to be a pretty weak point there between the 2 holes. Wouldn't want it vibrating around any. Looks like a good idea though.
    I didn't weld it, although I probably should have. But if my u-bolts are that loose that it moves around then shame on me. Those pins are really just axle locaters, not much of a stress point. The u-bolts take care of that. Dammit, now you make me want to weld them up...lol.

    Quote Originally Posted by blazin4low View Post
    good idea.......when the set back plates were brought to my attention I measured my wheels and they seemed to be center. Only thing I could think of was I had just put a set of 2" lowering leafs on and they were some RARE eibach leafs that were only made for a couple years. I figured eibach corrected the set back issue.
    Crazy, I sold Eibach for years and never seen any leafs from them. But, knowing Eibach, I bet they did correct the set back issue.

  11. #11
    5.7L VORTEC 350 blazin4low's Avatar
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    yeah, I didn't believe the guy selling them when he said they were eibach springs. So I called eibach and a guy put me on hold for 45mins or longer, came back and apologized for putting me on hold, then told me he had to go to an archive library with actual books to find a part number that was for Novas but cross referenced to older model S10s. That was goo enough for me to buy them and see what happened.
    http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t114/VortecBlazer/sidredo.jpg
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  12. #12
    chiefron Ron Christensen's Avatar
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    :boink:You don't have to drill through all the leaves, just the main one. Thats why you need replacement through bolts, they are easily damaged when removed. My rear springs were 3" dropped, from Beltech, and were not off set. The Eibach springs sound better if you can get them. But then again you can drill holes for free. Plus maybe new bolts. Either way the wheels look so much better centered as illustrated in the Wagonmaster's pictures.

  13. #13
    Registered User wagonmaster's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ron Christensen View Post
    :boink:You don't have to drill through all the leaves, just the main one. Thats why you need replacement through bolts, they are easily damaged when removed. My rear springs were 3" dropped, from Beltech, and were not off set. The Eibach springs sound better if you can get them. But then again you can drill holes for free. Plus maybe new bolts. Either way the wheels look so much better centered as illustrated in the Wagonmaster's pictures.
    Uh...you can't just drill thru the main leaf only. How would you bolt the spring pack together?

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