Results 1 to 10 of 10

Thread: Dear Lord, dont know what to do, too many choices, help?

  1. #1
    Blazin no mo Forklift's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2002
    Location
    Vancouver WA
    Posts
    8,597

    Dear Lord, dont know what to do, too many choices, help?

    So I was considering doing the behind and under brackets on my 85 S-15 and Ive just seen too many setups and know way too many ways to do this and need help with what I have and trying to finish this on a big time budget!
    http://thorbros.com/bag-brackets/axl...der-axle-lower
    to go with my old canti-lever with 3" wide lowers on 2" bars and 1.5" OD upper adjustables, but these brackets are mainly intended for sleeve bags as they go up/down and dont bend.
    Heres my canti setup:


    Im considering using these brackets on top of my lower bars being as my bags are convoluted and not sleeve type and this was the original intent for the canti-lever rear end setup. This will put the bags kind of under the frame right?
    http://thorbros.com/4-link-parts/4-l...r-bag-brackets

    or I could just go with an over the axle setup like this, but it would mean me getting the 3-link style brackets and I couldnt use my uppers, so confused!
    http://thorbros.com/bag-brackets/bri...sic-bridge-kit


    Heres where its sitting at right now:
    04 EC Silverado 4.8L,Pioneer, Rockford Fosgate, K&N, Viper, ACT, USSpeedo, Matrix, Whelen, Blackbear, 22" Eagles, Nittos,Russel,Magnaflow
    85 S-15 2.5L/4spd, RF P1 subs, highs & T4004, JL 250/1, SD 4-link, AIM LCAs, 1/2 valves, Blazer interior, 17" Eagles w/BFGs, phantom grill, 140 amp alt

  2. #2
    My Tape Deck Broke
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Posts
    188
    save your $. if you must have bags like theres no stopping you and you have a 4 banger start out by notching it bridge kit bag over axle then after you save your $ buy a sd 3 link with gas tank cross member
    Honk if you love peace and quiet

  3. #3
    Blazin no mo Forklift's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2002
    Location
    Vancouver WA
    Posts
    8,597
    I already did the crossmember, as you can see in the last pic and I already have the 4-link

    I think if I went for over the axle the bags would have to be pretty close to the pumpkin if I had room for it all.....at all. I think if I went over the axle Id need to do a 3-link instead, right?
    Last edited by Forklift; 01-28-2012 at 01:42 AM.
    04 EC Silverado 4.8L,Pioneer, Rockford Fosgate, K&N, Viper, ACT, USSpeedo, Matrix, Whelen, Blackbear, 22" Eagles, Nittos,Russel,Magnaflow
    85 S-15 2.5L/4spd, RF P1 subs, highs & T4004, JL 250/1, SD 4-link, AIM LCAs, 1/2 valves, Blazer interior, 17" Eagles w/BFGs, phantom grill, 140 amp alt

  4. #4
    My Tape Deck Broke
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Posts
    188
    3 link is bolt in takes the guess out of pinon angle and every thing. The major thing is you dont have to move the exhaust or gas tank. on a 3 link the bags would go next to the c notch SD makes brackets for it compared to your photo the bags would be moved out a few inchs http://qualityairride.com/bag-bracke...sic-bridge-kit

    this is what I did on one of my dimes when I made the bars the only thing I would change is I would put the bags just behind bar center. your going to have to move your gas tank ether to the back or into the bed as well



    Honk if you love peace and quiet

  5. #5
    Blazin no mo Forklift's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2002
    Location
    Vancouver WA
    Posts
    8,597
    any advise on how this is going, Id love!
    The upper bars are at about a 35-40% angle, looks good?



    04 EC Silverado 4.8L,Pioneer, Rockford Fosgate, K&N, Viper, ACT, USSpeedo, Matrix, Whelen, Blackbear, 22" Eagles, Nittos,Russel,Magnaflow
    85 S-15 2.5L/4spd, RF P1 subs, highs & T4004, JL 250/1, SD 4-link, AIM LCAs, 1/2 valves, Blazer interior, 17" Eagles w/BFGs, phantom grill, 140 amp alt

  6. #6
    My Tape Deck Broke
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Posts
    188
    the only thing i see might be your instant center. if at ride highth you were to extend the bars strait tords the front the top and bottom should cross were the major weight of the vehicle is. because were bagged and drive low most people extend that a lil more to the radiator.
    Honk if you love peace and quiet

  7. #7
    My Tape Deck Broke
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Posts
    188
    this might help

    Why so much talk about rear suspension? It seems these days no self-respecting minitruck is show worthy without an attention commanding “Goldberg device” (look it up) hanging out of a cavernous hole in the bed. Most rear suspension designs are limited to certain confines that don’t create many severe affects, but there are major design considerations that should be taken in account. Regardless of how you lift the frame off of the rear end, the links that connect the rear end to the chassis are what affect the dynamic relationship of the vehicle to the road. Before we go into the actual suspension designs I think it would benefit us to define the affects.
    Every suspension design has its benefits, even the tried-and-true 4-link has infinite design options to be an advantage in one area more than the other. The dynamics that are affected by the design, that are important to us here are…

    - Roll-center
    - Roll-steer
    - Anti-squat
    - Pinion angle

    Also, before we even discuss these we need to define instantaneous center or instant center. What instant center is is a theoretical point in space that is used to calculate suspension affect. The way to find instant center is easy once you “get it.” When you have two or more, bars, arms or what ever you are working with, each part is only as long as a straight line drawn from pivot to pivot. If you were to extend the line drawn through those points into theoretical “space” and do the same through the pivots of the other related parts, hopefully, at some point, they will meet. The point at which they meet is the instant center. If this doesn’t make any sense keep thinking about it until it does. To continue reading without understanding instant center is not going to be as fruitful as it should be.

    Now that you know what instant center is let’s talk about roll-center. Every suspension design sets a point at which the vehicle “rolls” from side-to-side. Most of the time the point moves around depending on where the suspension is in it’s travel, but it is still important. On a straight axle type rear suspension the roll-center is “set” by whatever is used to eliminate lateral movement (i.e. panhard bar or even a triangulated type link system.) What happens, is that the center of gravity acts upon the vehicle through its roll-center. The higher the roll-center the lower the vehicle feels in cornering. Don’t get greedy though, too high of a roll-center and the car will act odd. The chances of having a high roll-center at the front suspension is not good and the vehicle will act unbalanced. Any decent rear suspension design will have a roll center around the center of the rear end, which is fine.
    Roll-steer is a little more important and could cause some really poor dynamic affects. Roll-steer also comes in flavors, roll-understeer and roll-oversteer. Every straight-axle rear suspension design, that actually affects performance, has roll-steer in some amount. Roll-steer is always measured when the car is leaning toward the outside of a corner. For example, if you were to turn left the vehicle would lean to the right, so with the right rear wheel being compressed and the left wheel in droop and geometry being what it is, the rear end would try to steer the vehicle into or out of the corner. The issue is caused when the rear end steers out of the corner causing roll-oversteer. What happens at the controls of the vehicle is once the corner is entered and the vehicle takes its “set” into the corner, the rear end suddenly steers the car further than initially anticipated. Now under normal driving conditions this is at best annoying, but really driving into a corner and having the rear end oversteer can put the car into a spin. In really severe conditions the vehicle would be extremely difficult to drive over 30mph, a small bump in the road would really upset the chassis and almost can’t be controlled. Again the confines of the typical minitruck doesn’t really leave much room for severe oversteer and severe understeer is hard to achieve.
    Anti-squat is really not a major concern, except that it should be at least taken into consideration while building a link system that is limited to short bars. Anti-squat also affects roll-steer and vise-versa (roll-center can also affect roll-steer, but isn’t a concern with a properly designed system.) What anti-squat does is fight the affect of weight transfer trying to “squat” the rear end while under acceleration. To create or eliminate anti-squat, you would design the link system to have the instant-center a certain height, related to the center of gravity. A higher instant-center has more anti-squat while a lower instant-center has less. At some point too high of an instant-center will actually lift the rear up as the vehicle accelerates. And too low will push the rear down (though a little tougher to achieve.)
    Pinion angle is probably the one thing that most builders are completely aware of, but many are not sure how to set up properly. The pinion angle should be between 1 and 3 degrees pointed down. Most of us have already heard that, but the thing is that the major detail left out is that it should be 1 to 3 degrees pointed down from parallel to the transmission (or the front driveshaft on a 2 piece drive line.) What that means is the pinion could, under certain circumstances, point up. We don’t have near enough space here for me to explain how to design the suspension that you may desire, but give us some time we will get there.
    Honk if you love peace and quiet

  8. #8
    will work for food! phatfarmer2's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Location
    North NJ
    Posts
    7,295
    Grounded 4 Life
    "continuing where the factory left off"

    Street Source page

    Projects i've done

    V8 Love
    Pneumatic Love

  9. #9
    will work for food! phatfarmer2's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Location
    North NJ
    Posts
    7,295
    use this kinda for refrence.. or you can buy the program for i think $75 and you can input your values and see how it works, on a computer....

    http://performancetrends.com/4link.htm
    Grounded 4 Life
    "continuing where the factory left off"

    Street Source page

    Projects i've done

    V8 Love
    Pneumatic Love

  10. #10
    Blazin no mo Forklift's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2002
    Location
    Vancouver WA
    Posts
    8,597
    thanks Martin!
    just considering doing a wishbone setup with the stuff I have, ideas? It will allow me to use the parts I have and do bag over axle and a bridge which will be really easy to do!
    Im a stereo installer dammit, not a suspension expert!
    04 EC Silverado 4.8L,Pioneer, Rockford Fosgate, K&N, Viper, ACT, USSpeedo, Matrix, Whelen, Blackbear, 22" Eagles, Nittos,Russel,Magnaflow
    85 S-15 2.5L/4spd, RF P1 subs, highs & T4004, JL 250/1, SD 4-link, AIM LCAs, 1/2 valves, Blazer interior, 17" Eagles w/BFGs, phantom grill, 140 amp alt

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •