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Thread: Lowering keys and rust

  1. #1
    Registered User johnnymossville's Avatar
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    Jun 2010
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    Lowering keys and rust

    Last weekend I took the overload leafs out of the rear springs and got the rear another inch lower, sweet. When I first lowered it I just took the bolts out of the adjusters to lower the front figuring when I got the keys on I should be able to get it lower yet and it might ride better. So I turned it around, jacked the front up and tried to put the lowing keys on. I spent a couple hours working on it but didn't have much luck. lol Those suckers are rusty and stuck. I lubed the hell out of them, beat the hell out of them, loosened the mount and beat the hell out of them again and still couldn't get them loose. The funny thing is they slide back and forth in the lower control arm like they are new but the keys are f***ing stuck. Now it looks weird with the rear lower than the front, oooh a new trend maybe.:eek: Hopefully I can get them changed this weekend because work is sending me to Cali all next week and I won't be able to work on it for a while. Damn work! :D
    1999 TrailBlazer: Black/Bravada woodgrain and tan leather int., 3/4 drop, hollow cat./2.5" Dynomax UltraFlo muffler and tailpipe - future mods: 5.7 Vortec V8, headers, CAI, AWD, wheels/tires
    '93 Caprice Wagon: warm 350/700r4, headers/Dynomax exh., 3.42 gears, 9C1 suspension, 7/8 Rally wheels with 255/275 BFGs
    '89 Silverado: built 350/700r4, headers/Dynomax exh., 4.10 gears, 8/10 truck Rally wheels with 10.5/12.5-33" BFG A/Ts

  2. #2
    Registered User 88NJblaze's Avatar
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    Jul 2009
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    Hamilton,NJ
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    i just did this, took awhile to get my passenger key out, it was rusted onto the torsion bar. I unbolted the crossmember and kept hitting it back and forth and eventually it came out, those bastards are a pain.
    Andrew

    -88 s10 blazer (350)
    -94 s10 blazer, 4 door

  3. #3
    My S-10 fleet is gone... s10blazed's Avatar
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    In my experience they either just fall off - or take hours worth of pounding to get them loose.

    Heat, PB Blaster, and one of these: http://www.harborfreight.com/air-imp...kit-32940.html is my preferred combo.

    Also, tapping a hammer towards the middle of the bar has done wonders for me. I was working on a Bravada before and had already spent hours beating the bar end back and forth without it even budging. Out of frustration I hit the middle of the bar and the harmonic vibrations or something just popped it off. Literally, it just fell off and almost hit me. We repeated it on the other side (which was similarly stuck) and after a few tries it came off pretty easy.

    Of course that didn't work when I did my 4x4, but lots of heat did.

    Good luck, rust can be a real bitch.

  4. #4
    Registered User
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    Sep 2013
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    Minnesota
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    Yeah this is where I am too... I spent 4 hours today trying to get my TB's and keys to move. Ended up putting everything back together because I had to drive the truck to work.... Bought a can of PB Blaster to spray on tonight, let it sit for a day or 2, then gunna try it again...

  5. #5
    '93 Typhoon / 97 Isuzu C-Town216's Avatar
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    Too much heat can damage the spring rate of the bars. A few yrz back helping a bud we had 2 take the whole crossmember with both bars still sticking out of it 2 a shop and have them pressed out. Most of that truck wuz rust welded 2gether! Hope ur'z ain't so bad!
    "All I need iz 1 mic"

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